Work and Adventure
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JAMES CHALMERS
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LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. |
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Work and Adventure in New Guinea
By James Chalmers
Author of * Pioneering in New Guinea,' etc.
With Seven Illustrations
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The Religious Tract Society 56 Paternoster Row and 65 St. Paul's Churchyard
Work and Adventure in New Guinea
By James Chalmers
Author of ' Pioneering in New Guinea,' etc.
With Seven Illustrations
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London
The Religious Tract Society
56 Paternoster Row and 65 St. Paul's Churchyard
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CONTENTS
PAOX
Editor's Preface to the New and Popular
Edition i
CHAPTER I Early Experiences i7
CHAPTER II A Few Trip Incidents ....... 55
CHAPTER III Sketches of Papuan Life 79
CHAPTER IV The Exploration of the Gulf of Papua . . 124
CHAPTER V The Kabadi District .'144
CHAPTER VI Some New Guinea Villages . , . . . 155
CHAPTER VII Peace-making 178
CHAPTER VIII The Kalo Massacre .... . . 192
a
I 2328(
iv Contents
FAGB
CHAPTER IX How THE Kalo Massacre was Punished . . . 209
CHAPTER X A Trip to Elema 215
CHAPTER XI A New Guinea Picnic 230
CHAPTER XII East Cape in 1878 and in 1882 236
CHAPTER XIII A Trip to Oiabu and Mekeo 241
CHAPTER XIV Two Long Inland Tramps 254
CHAPTER XV The Burning Jewel of Death, and Other
Sketches 278
Index 309
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Life in New Guinea in 1877. . . . Frontispiece
Port Moresby To face Chap. 1.
DUBUS AT VaILALA AND MOAPA — KOAPINA, CHIEF OF
MOAPA . To face page 65
Queen Koloka of Namoa .... » „ 167
Mourners and Dead House at Kalo . „ „ 209
A China Straits Canoe „ ,,240
A DoBO or Tree House, Koiari ... „ „ 273
EDITOR'S PREFACE TO THE NEW AND POPULAR EDITION
This book was originally issued in 1885, and attracted the attention of many readers to the noble Christian work being done in New Guinea. It has been out of print for some years, and is now reissued in connection with the publication of James Chalmers' Life.
New Guinea, if we may take Australia as a continent, is the largest island in the world, being, roughly speaking, about 1400 miles long, and 490 broad at its widest point. Its northernmost coast nearly touches the equator, and its southernmost stretches down to 11° south latitude. Little more than the fringe or coast-line of the island has been at all carefully explored, but it is known to possess magnificent mountain ranges, vast stretches of beautiful scenery, much land that is fruitful, even under native cultivation, and mighty rivers that take their rise far inland. Its savage inhabitants have aroused powerfully the interest and sympathy alike of Christian Polynesians and English missionaries, who, taking their lives in their hands, have, in not a few instances, laid them down in the effort to win New Guinea for Christ.
At some remote period of the past, New Guinea, in all probability, formed a part of Australia. Torres * A
2 Adventure in New Guinea
Strait itself is only about sixty miles wide ; the water is shallow, shoals and reefs abound ; giving the sailor who threads the intricate and dangerous navigation the impression that he is sailing over what was once solid earth.
The first European sailor who sighted the island was D' Abreu, in 1 5 1 1 ; the honour of being first to land belongs most probably to the Portuguese explorer, Don Jorge De Meneses, in 1526, on his way from Malacca to the Moluccas.
Into the somewhat intricate history of the connection of the Dutch with the north-west coast of New Guinea, we cannot here enter. As suzerain nominally under the Sultan of Tidore, they claim possession of the western part of the island as far east as lat. 141° 47' E. The trade they carry on is said to be worth about 20,000/. a year. Dutch missionaries have for many years been stationed around the coast of Geelvink Bay.
In 1770 Captain Cook visited the south-west coast, and in 1775, an English officer, Forrest by name, spent some months on the north-east coast in search of spices. In 1793 New Guinea was annexed by two of the East India Company's commanders, and an island in Geel- vink Bay, Manasvari by name, was for a time held by their troops.
Partial surveys of the south coast were made in 1 845 by Captain Blackwood, who discovered the Fly River ; by Lieutenant Yule, in 1846, who journeyed east as far as the island to which he has given his name ; and in 1848 by Captain Owen Stanley, who made a fairly accurate survey of the south-east coast.
The most important survey work along the coast of
Preface to New Edition 3
New Guinea was done in 1873 by H.M. ship Basilisk, under the command of Captain Moresby. He dis- covered the now famous harbour, Port Moresby ; he laid down the true eastern coast-line of the island, discovering the China Straits, and exploring the north- east coast as far west as Huon Gulf
In many parts of the world Christian missionaries have been the first to get on friendly terms with the natives, and thus to pave the way for developing the resources of a savage country and leading its inhabitants in the paths of progress and civilisation. Pre-eminently has this been the case in South-eastern New Guinea. White men had landed before them, it is true ; but for the most part only to benefit themselves, and not unfrequently to murder the natives or to entrap them into slavery. Christianity has won great victories in Polynesia, but no part of the globe has witnessed fouler crimes or more atrocious wickedness on the part of white men toward savage races.
Mr. Chalmers has given the following graphic story of how New Guinea came under Christian training.
* To the north and north-west of Samoa are several groups of islands, known on the chart as the Gilbert Group, EUice Group, and Tokelau Group. When it became known that a mission to these islands was con- templated by the British missionaries of Samoa, the missionaries of the Hervey Group, with which I was then connected, were anxious to join in the enterprise, so that the churches in their care might have an outlet for their zeal in Christ's work. The Samoan mission- aries, however, thought, and rightly too, that they could undertake the entire mission alone, having at that time
4 Adventure in New Guinea
a large number of teachers and students. Moreover, these small groups of islands were much nearer to them than to us.
* Our chief reason for wishing to take part in the work was because Elikana, the first to bring the Gospel to these islands, was a native of one of our islands, and a deacon in one of our mission churches. The circum- stances of his coming to these islands were intensely interesting.
* The natives had held their May meeting on Mani- hiki, an island of the Humphrey Group ; and getting a large number of cocoanuts into a canoe, several of them had started to cross over to Rakahanga, another island of the same group about thirty miles away. When they left, the weather was fine and the wind just fresh, and they hoped to be over in a few hours ; but when more than half-way across, a heavy squall came down on them. In the darkness they lost sight of land, and must have got headed off. When the squall passed they could see no land anywhere, and although they beat about they could pick none up. For days they hoped, but in vain, and so they gave themselves up for lost. After many days of much suffering and many disappointments, seeing low islands, but unable to make them, they were at last driven on to an island. Some had died, and others were drowned, but Elikana and two more got ashore in a very weak state.
'They were found by natives and treated kindly, and taken to the chief, who received them as friends. Elikana had saved a Pilgrim's Progress^ and, I think, his Bible, by having them fastened in a cloth round his waist. They astonished the natives with morning and
Preface to New Edition S
evening prayers ; and soon after their recovery from the effects of the long exposure, they began teaching and telling the story of Divine love as seen in Christ.
*The PilgrMs Progress was divided out in leaves amongst the people, and several were taught to read. After a few years Elikana decided to get to Samoa, if possible, and inform the missionaries that these islands were waiting for the Gospel. He felt he was not sufficiently educated for the work, and was anxious, if he could, to get back to his home, and to Rarotonga, to be better educated, that he might return qualified to act as a teacher. Reaching Samoa, he told his story. The missionaries heard it with joy, and gave God thanks. They received him into the Malua College, and arranged to send teachers at once. From that day to this the work has prospered, and there are now churches on every island.
*The Samoan missionaries being able to undertake the work in these islands themselves, and declining our assistance, and we feeling that the life of the native churches in the Hervey Group and out-stations depended largely in being in close relationship with the heathen, and in active service for Christ, we all betook ourselves to earnest prayer that God would give us fields for labour. I shall never forget those years. Meetings were frequently held in the chapels, and grew in intenseness ; and then meetings for prayer were gathered in many homes, and these becoming too small, houses were built in all the districts, and several times a week many met at night in these houses to ask God's blessing and fields for labour. Then came 1871, when the Directors of the London
6 Adventure in New Guinea
Missionary Society decided on extending their South Pacific field of operations to the great island of New- Guinea, and Messrs. Murray and Macfarlane were asked to charter a vessel, take a few teachers, and proceed to that great land. In the Hervey Group the excitement was great, as we felt we too might take part in that work. Then came the request for more teachers, and I now remember it with a thrill of pleasure. Meetings for thanksgiving were held for the wide field opened, and for the honour bestowed upon us in being permitted to take part with Christ in His great work.
' My dear old friend and fellow-worker, the Rev. Dr. Gill, had arranged to go home on his first furlough in 1872, and we decided in committee to ask him to take a number of teachers in charge, and with Mr. Murray place them on the mainland of New Guinea. Dr. Macfarlane, after the visit in 1871, returned to England, and Mr. Murray was left in charge, taking up his residence at Somerset, Northern Queensland, near to Cape York.
* Preparations were at once begun to get our first contingent away. At one early morning meeting the chapel was crowded, and I proposed that we should pray that God would help us to select the best men for the very important undertaking. At that meeting several old men stood up and said, " Take us all : if we cannot learn the language to speak for Jesus, we can live for Him, and help the younger men in station work." The enthusiasm was intense. Five men and their wives were selected, and from all the. islands we had numerous offers of service.
Preface to New Edition 7
* The time was drawing near when they must leave. Who that witnessed that " setting-apart " Sunday at Avarua, Rarotonga, will ever forget it? Old men and women, young men and women, wept with real joy. That sobbed " Amen " of the setting-apart prayer of the whole assembly I hear now. Five men and their wives leaving home and friends and all that was dear to them for the name of the Lord Jesus Christ ! I think of it now with wonder and praise. The churches and congregations were everywhere thrilled.
* The John Williams arrived and remained a few days. Then the parting came, a never-to-be-forgotten day. Twenty-two years have gone since then, but the memory is still fresh. One of the five, Ruatoka, was sent with fear and trembling, being apparently in bad health and very weak, and I was strongly urged not to send him. He much wished to go, and thinking he could bear it, I agreed ; and to-day he is the only one left, all the others are dead and buried. The names were —
Ruatoka and wife Rau and wife Heneri and wife Adamu and wife Anederea and wife
From Mangaia. „ Aitutaki. „ Manihiki.
„ Rarotonga.
* They called at Aitutaki, and there the interest was as intense as on Rarotonga and Mangaia. At Samoa they were joined by Piri and his wife, who were there in charge of a Rarotonga colony, so that they were now six.
'The John Williams left the teachers and Dr. Gill at Somerset, with Mr. Murray, and she proceeded to Sydney., Murray and Gill chartered a small vessel, and crossed the Papuan Gulf to Redscar Bay, and there
8 Adventure in New Guinea
came to an anchor near to some small islands off the coast at Redscar Head. They were soon in communi- cation with the natives, and after visiting several places, decided to leave the teachers at Manumanu, the largest village in the bay. The chief and people seemed friendly, and all promised to treat the teachers well. The chiefs name was Naime. Some years after, when visiting him, I found him without a teacher. He sat in front of me, and pretending to shiver as with cold, said, " Tamate, listen ! Why am I left out in the cold ? What have I done, that no teacher should be living here now ? Did not I defend the teachers when they first came, and was this not the door by which you all entered into this land ? Some sought to kill them ; I would not allow them. When I had food, did I not always share it with them ? and so now tell me what I have done to be left in poverty and cold."
* Manumanu proved very unhealthy, several teachers died, and the living were removed to Somerset ; but not before they had made many good friends with the other sections of the Motu tribe, especially those who visited them from Hanuabada, afterwards named by Captain Moresby, Port Moresby. The captain called in Redscar Bay, and finding some of the teachers very ill he got them on board his ship the Basilisk, and treated them very kindly. They were on board when Port Moresby was discovered. Over the reports that were received from Manumanu many tears were shed and prayers offered, but never once did the Hervey Group churches waver in their love to Christ, and holy resolve to teach New Guinea about Him.
'The teachers who were removed to Somerset
Preface to New Edition 9
remained there until November of 1873, when Mr. Murray brought them back to New Guinea, and this time to Port Moresby, where they had a right good reception from the natives at home, many others being in the Gulf on their long trading trip for canoes and sago.
* In 1874, Mr. and Mrs. Lawes, with their son Charles, settled at Port Moresby, the only white people on the whole of New Guinea, and, with a few teachers, claimed the island for Christ our King.
*0f all those first teachers only Ruatoka, still at Port Moresby, now remains. All are dead, some from the climate, others by the hands of the natives. A tablet has been erected to their memory at Vatorata, so that their names may be perpetuated in the memory of succeeding generations.
* The first teachers were from Lifu and Mare in 187 1. In 1872 the Rarotonga Institution sent its first, and in 1874 Niu^ joined. In 1878, Raiatea gave a good con- tingent ; and visit after visit of the John Williams brought us numbers of these men and women. In 1884, I think it was, Samoa agreed to help us, and since then she has sent us men and women who have done good service for Christ. Of many of them also it can be said they were " Faithful unto death." '
In 1877 the Rev. James Chalmers joined the mission, and it is hardly too much to say that his arrival formed an epoch in its history. He was wonderfully equipped for the work to which he, under God's Providence, put his hand, and became the white man best known to all the natives along the south coast. From the first he went among them unarmed, and though not unfre- quently in imminent peril, was marvellously preserved
10 Adventure in New Guinea
for many years. He combined the qualities of mission- ary and explorer in a very high degree, and while beloved as * Tamate ' ^ by the natives, added enormously to the stock of our geographical knowledge of New Guinea, and to our accurate acquaintance with the ways of thinking, the habits, superstitions, and mode of life of the various tribes of natives.
Mr. Chalmers in 1884 placed many of his journals and papers at the disposal of the Religious Tract Society, in the hope that their publication might increase the general store of knowledge about New Guinea, and also give true ideas about the natives, the kind of Christian work that is being done in their midst, and the progress in it that is being made.
The prominence which New Guinea assumed in the public mind about 1885 was due much more to political than to religious reasons. England is a Christian nation, and there are numbers who rejoice in New Guinea as a signal proof of the regenerating power of the Gospel of Christ. Yet, to the Christian man, it is somewhat humiliating to find how deeply the press of our country was stirred by the statement that Germany had annexed the north coast of New Guinea, while it was hardly touched by the thrilling story of the introduction of Christianity all along the south coast. The public mind was much exercised in discussing whether Her Majesty's Government should annex the whole rather than proclaim a pro- tectorate over a part ; it hardly cared to remember the names of those who died in trying to make known
^ This represents the nearest approach native lips can make to the sound of Chalmers.
Preface to New Edition ii
to the fierce Papuans our common brotherhood in Christ Jesus. One can understand that this is natural ; still, it will be an augury of good for the future of the English people, when, without losing any of their legitimate interest in public affairs, they care more for the victories won by faith alone, over ignorance, vice, and barbarism, than for the victories won by the rifle and sword, however just the cause may be in which these weapons are used.
From the visit of Captain Moresby in 1873 events tended in the direction of bringing New Guinea into closer relations with England. On the one hand, there has been the conviction that if we did not annex it some other country would, and thus threaten Australia. Then many Australians looked upon New Guinea as a possible paradise for colonists, and were eager to establish themselves securely upon its soil. The attempts in this direction have produced little but disaster to all concerned.
On the other hand, missionaries felt that there was much to be said on the same side. Perhaps the opinion of no one man deserves more weight than that of Mr. Chalmers. We give his views, as he expressed them before the protectorate was proclaimed.
* This question of the annexation of New Guinea is still creating a good deal of interest, and although at present the Imperial Government, through Lord Derby, has given its decision against annexation, yet the whole matter must, I have no doubt, be reconsidered, and the island be eventually annexed. It is to be hoped the country is not to become part of the Australian colonies — a labour land, and a land where
12 Adventure in New Guinea
loose money in the hands of a few capitalists is to enter in and make enormous fortunes, sacrificing the natives and everything else. If the Imperial Govern- ment is afraid of the expense, I think that can easily be avoided. Annex New Guinea, and save it from another power, who might harass our Australian colonies ; administer it for the natives, and the whole machinery of government can be maintained by New Guinea, and allow a large overplus. We have all the experience of the Dutch in Java; I say, accept and improve.
* It will be said that, as a nation, Britain has never tried to govern commercially, or has not yet made money out of her governing ; and why should she now? She does not want New Guinea. Why should she go to the expense of governing? Her colonies may be unsafe with a country of splendid harbours so near in the hands of a foreign power, and the people of that country need a strong, friendly, and just power over them, to save them from themselves and from the white man — whose gods are gold and land, and to whom the black man is a nuisance to be got rid of as soon as possible. Let Britain for these reasons annex, and from the day of annexation New Guinea will pay all her own expenses ; the expenses of the first three years to be paid with compound interest at the end of that period.
' Let us begin by recognising all native rights, and letting it be distinctly understood that we govern for the native races, not the white men; that we are de- termined to civilise and raise to a higher level of humanity those whom we govern; that our aim will
Preface to New Edition 13
be to do all to defend them and save them from ex- termination by just humanitarian laws — not the laws of the British nation — but the laws suited for them. It will not take long for the natives to learn that not only are we great and powerful, but we are just and merciful, and we seek their good.
*That established, I would suggest appointing officers in every district, whose duty it would be to govern through the native chief, and see that every native attended to plantations. A native planting tea, sugar, coffee, maize, cinchona, etc., to be allowed a bounty, and when returns arrived, to be allowed so much per pound sterling. All these things to be superintended by the said officer.
* Traders would soon swarm ; but no one should be allowed to trade with natives directly, but only through the Government.
* All unoccupied land to belong to the Government, and to be leased to those wishing land. No native should be allowed to part with land, and if desirous to sell, then only to the Government, who would allow him a reasonable price. Every land transaction to be made through Government ; no land to be sold, only leased.
* The land revenue will be immense, and after paying all expenses, will leave much for improvements and the education of the people. Stringent laws passed directly annexation takes place to prevent importation of arms and spirits, will be a true safeguard for the natives.
' As a nation, let Britain, in the zenith of her power and greatness, think kindly of the native races, and now
14 Adventure in New Guinea
for once in her history rule this great island for right and righteousness, in justice and mercy, and not for self and pelf in unrighteousness, blood, and falsehood. It is to be hoped that future generations of New- Guinea natives will not rise up to condemn her, as the New Zealanders have done, and to claim their ancient rights with tears now unheeded. I can see along the vista of the future, truth and righteousness in Britain's hands, and the inhabitants of New Guinea yet unborn blessing her for her rule ; if otherwise, God help the British meanness, for they will rise to pro- nounce a curse on her for ever ! '
In 1883, the Queensland Government formally annexed their huge neighbour ; but this act was sub- sequently repudiated by the Home Government. Towards the end of 1884, it was decided to announce a formal protectorate over a large portion of the southern shores of New Guinea.
The official ceremony took place on Nov. 6, 1884, at Port Moresby. Five ships of war at once gave dignity to the proceeding by their presence, and astonished the natives by their salutes. About fifty chiefs were brought on board the Commodore's ship, the Nelson, by the Rev. W. G. Lawes. To Boevagi, the chief of the Port Moresby tribe, was entrusted the responsibility of upholding the authority and dignity of England in the island. He was presented with an ebony stick, into the top of which had been let a florin with the Queen's head uppermost. Mr Lawes conveyed to Boevagi the meaning of the Commodore's words when he gave the stick. * I present you with this stick, which is to be an emblem of your authority ;
Preface to New Edition 15
and all the tribes who are represented by the chiefs here are to look to the holder of this stick. Boevagi, this stick represents the Queen of England, and if at any time any of the people of these tribes have the grievance or anything to say, they are, through any holder of this stick, to make it known to the Queen's officers, in order that it may be inquired into.'
NEW GUINE
CHAPTER I
EARLY EXPERIENCES
VNIVER
Somerset — Murray Island — Darnley Island — Boera — Port Moresby — Trip inland — Sunday at Port Moresby — Native funeral ceremonies — Tupuselei — Round Head — Native salutations — Kerepunu — Teste Island — Hoop-iron as an article of com- merce— Two teachers landed — A tabooed place — Moresby and Basilisk Islands — South Cape— House building — Diffi- culties with the natives — An anxious moment — Thefts — Dancing and cooking — Visit to a native village — Native shot on the Mayri — Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers in danger — Arrival of the Ellengowan.
Towards the close of 1877, Mr. Chalmers and Mr. Macfarlane visited New Guinea for the purpose of exploring the coast, landing native teachers at suitable spots, and thus opening the way for future missionary effort. What follows is given in Mr. Chalmers' words : —
We left Sydney by the Dutch steamer William M'Kinnon, on September 20, 1877, for Somerset. The sail inside the Barrier Reef is most enjoyable. The numerous islands passed, and the varied coast scenery, make the voyage a very pleasant one — especially with such men as our captain and mates. On Sunday, Sept. 30, we reached Somerset, where we
B
i8 Adventure in New Guinea
were met by the Bertha, with Mr. Macfarlane on board of her. Mr. Macfarlane was soon on board of the steamer to welcome us, and remained with us till the evening. There was very little of the Sabbath observed that day — all was bustle and confusion. Quite a number of the pearl-shelling boats were at Somerset awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and the masters of these boats were soon on and around the steamer, receiving their goods.
On Tuesday, October 2, we left Somerset in the Bertha for Murray Island, anchoring that night off Albany. On Wednesday night we anchored off a sandbank, and on Thursday off a miserable-looking island, called Village Island. On Friday we came to York Island, where we went ashore and saw only four natives — one man and three boys. At eleven P.M. on Saturday we anchored at Darnley Island. This is a fine island, and more suitable for vessels and landing goods than Murray, but supposed to be not so healthy. The island is about 500 feet in height, in some parts thickly wooded, in others bare. It was here the natives cut off a boat's crew about thirty years ago, for which they suffered — the captain landing with part of his crew, well-armed, killing many and chasing them right round the island. They never again attempted any- thing of the kind. As a native of the island expressed himself on the subject: — 'White fellow, he too much make fright, man he all run away, no want see white fellow gun no more.' In 1871 the first teachers were landed here.
The Sunday morning was fine, and we resolved to spend a quiet forenoon on shore. We landed after
Early Experiences 19
breakfast, and walked through what must be in wet weather a deep swamp, to the mission house on the hill. Gucheng, the Loyalty Islander, who is teacher here, looks a good, determined fellow. The people seem to live not far from the mission house, so did not take long to assemble. There were about eighty at the service, including a few Australians employed by one of the white men on the island to fish for trepang. The Darnley Islanders appear a much more interesting people than the Australians. Many of those present at the service were clothed. They sang very well indeed such hymns as * Come to Jesus,' * Canaan, bright Canaan,' which, with some others, have been translated into their language. Mr. Macfarlane ad- dressed them, through the teacher, and the people seemed to attend to what was said.
Because of a strong head wind we could not leave the next day, so Mr. Macfarlane and I returned to the shore. We found the children collected in Gucheng's house, learning to write the letters on slates. There were very few girls present — indeed, there are not many girls on the island, so many have been destroyed by their fathers at birth. We strolled about and visited the large cocoanut plantation belonging to the society. On our return we found the teacher and a number of natives collected near the beach. They had just buried a man who had died the night before — so Christian burial has begun. Formerly, the body would have been hung up and tapped, to allow the juices to run out, which would have been drunk by the friends. We returned to the mission house for dinner. I was glad to find so many boys living with Gucheng. They were
20 Adventure in New Guinea
bright, happy little fellows, romping about, enjoying themselves.
We did not get away from Darnley Island till the morning of Wednesday, October lo. The navigation between Darnley and Murray Islands is difficult, aris- ing from various reefs and currents. Although only twenty-seven miles separate the two, it was Friday night before we anchored at Murray Island. We went ashore the same night.
On Saturday we climbed to the highest point of the island, 700 feet high. There seems to be no lack of food, chiefly grown inland. From the long drought, the island presented in many places a parched look, and lacked that luxuriance of vegetation to which we had been so long accustomed on Rarotonga.
At the forenoon meeting on Sunday there were nearly 200 present. Mr. Macfarlane preached. A few had a little clothing on them ; some seemed attentive, but the most seemed to consider the occasion a fit time for relating the week's news, or of commenting on the strangers present. The Sabbath is observed by church attendance and a cessation from work. There is not much thieving on the island; they are an indolent people. The school is well attended by old and young, and Josiah, the teacher, has quite a number of children living with him. They sing very well.
Several of the old men here wear wigs. It seems when grey hairs appear they are carefully pulled out ; as time moves on they increase so fast that they would require to shave the head often, so, to cover their shame, they take to wigs, which represent them as having long, flowing, curly hair, as in youth. Wigs would not
Early Experiences 21
astonish the Murray Islanders, as Mr. Nott's did the Tahitians after his return from England. They soon spread the news round the island that their missionary had had his head newly thatched, and looked a young man again.
On Monday the teachers' goods and mission supplies were put on board the Bertha. On Tuesday afternoon, after everything was on board, a farewell service was held with the teachers, and early on Wednesday morn- ing we left Murray Island for New Guinea. On Friday we made New Guinea, off Yule Island, and about sunset on Oct. 21 we anchored about five miles off Boera. Near to the place where we anchored was a low swampy ground covered with mangrove. We could see Lealea, where there has been so much sickness. It presented the same low, swampy, unhealthy appearance. Soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside with Mr. Lawes and Piri on board. Mr. Lawes did not seem so strong as I remembered him eleven years ago, yet he looked better than I had expected to see him. He has suffered greatly from the climate. Piri is a strong, hearty fellow ; the climate seems to have had little effect on him. They remained some time on board, when they went ashore in the vessel's boat — Piri taking the teachers and their wives ashore with him. The wind was ahead, and too strong for the canoe, so the men who came off in her with Mr. Lawes and Piri remained on board the Bertha till midnight, when the wind abated. When the boat was leaving they shouted to Mr. Lawes to tell us not to be afraid, as they would not steal anything. They remained quietly on board till two A.M.
22 Adventure in New Guinea
Mr. Macfarlane and I went ashore in the morning. The country looked bare and not at all inviting. This is now the most western mission station on New Guinea proper. Piri has a very comfortable house, with a plantation near to it The chapel, built prin- cipally by himself and wife, is small, but comfortable, and well suited for the climate. The children meet in it for school. The village has a very dirty, tumble- down appearance.
The widows of two teachers who died last year shortly after their arrival in the mission were living with Piri. We took them on board, with their things, to accompany us to the new mission. I returned ashore with the boat to fetch away the remainder of the things and teachers who were ashore, and when ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetch her, so, after pulling for some time, we up sail and away for Port Moresby. Piri and his wife came with us in their large canoe. We saw several dugongs on the way, which some esteem extra good food. Tom, one of the Loyalty Island teachers, who was in the boat with us, expressed their edible qualities thus : * You know, sir, pig he good.' 'Yes, Tom, it is very good.' 'Ah, he no good ; dugong he much good.' It must be good when a native pronounces it to be better than pork.
We arrived at Port Moresby about six o'clock. I cannot say I was much charmed with the place, it had such a burnt-up, barren appearance. Close to the village is a mangrove swamp, and the whole bay is enclosed with high hills. At the back of the mission premises, and close to them, is a large swampy place, which in wet weather is full of water. There can be
Early Experiences 23
no doubt about Port Moresby being a very unhealthy place. We went ashore for breakfast next day, and in the afternoon visited the school ; about forty children were present — an unusually large number. Many of the children know the alphabet, and a few can spell words of two or three letters. In walking through the village in the afternoon we saw the women making their crockery pots, preparing for the men's return from the Gulf, the next north-west season, with large quantities of sago. We visited the graves of the teachers, which are kept in good order. They are all enclosed by a good fence. Within the same enclosure is one little grave that will bind New Guinea close to the hearts of Mr. and Mrs. Lawes. Over them all may be written — ' For Christ's sake.'
In returning from the graves we met a man in mourning, whose wife had been killed in a canoe by natives about Round Head. He and his friends had resolved to retaliate, but through the influence of the teachers they did not do so. The teachers from the villages to the east of Port Moresby came in this after- noon, looking well and hearty. Some of them have suffered a great deal from fever and ague, but are now becoming acclimatised. The natives of the various villages are not now afraid of one another, but accom- pany their teachers from place to place. Men, women, and children smoke, and will do anything for tobacco. The best present you can give them is tobacco; it is the one thing for which they beg.
As it was decided that the vessel should not leave before Tuesday of the next week, Mr. Macfarlane and I took a trip inland. I was anxious to see for myself
24 Adventure in New Guinea
if anything could be done for the natives living in the mountains. Mr. Goldie, a naturalist, with his party, was about ten miles inland. He himself had been at Port Moresby for some days, and, on hearing of our plans, he joined us, and we proceeded first to his camp. We left Port Moresby about half-past five on Thursday morning, and crossed the low ground at the back of the mission house. We ascended the hill which runs all along the coast in this district at a part about 300 feet high, and then descended into a great plain. At present the plain is dry and hard, from the long drought, and very little of anything green is to be seen. There are a few small gum trees, and great herds of wallabies were jumping about. The greater part of this plain is under water in the wet seasons. We walked about ten miles in an east-north-east direction, keeping the Astrolabe Range to our right, when we came to the camp, close by a large river — the Laroki. Being afraid of alligators, we preferred having water poured over us to bathing in the river.
Our party was a tolerably large one — Ruatoka (the Port Moresby teacher), some Port Moresby natives, and four Loyalty Island teachers, on their way to East Cape. We did not see a strange native all the way. We had our hammocks made fast in the bush by the river side, and rested until three P.M., when we started for another part of the river about seven miles off, in a south-east direction. Mr. Goldie also shifted his camp. After sunset we reached the point where the river was to be crossed, and there we meant to remain for the night.
We had a bath, then supper, and evening prayers ;
Early Experiences ZS
after which we slung our hammocks to the trees, in which we rested well. It was a strangely weird-look- ing sight, and the noises were of a strange kind — walla- bies leaping past, and strange birds overhead. Mr. Goldie's Mare men joined with their countrymen, the teachers, in singing some of Sankey's hymns in English. Soon sleep came, and all seemed quiet.
At three A.M. on Oct. 26 we struck camp, and after morning prayers we began to cross the river, which was not over four feet in the deepest part. It was here Mr. Lawes crossed when he first visited the inland tribes ; so now, led by Ruatoka, we were on his track. The moon was often hidden by dark clouds, so we had some difficulty in keeping to the path. We pressed on, as we were anxious to get to a deserted village which Mr. Goldie knew, to breakfast. We reached the village about six, and after we had partaken of breakfast we set off for the mountains. When we had gone about four miles the road became more uneven. Wallabies were not to be seen, and soon we were in a valley close by the river, which we followed for a long way, and then began to ascend. We climbed it under a burning sun, Ruatoka calling out, Tepi'ake, tepzake, tepiake (Friends, friends, friends). Armed natives soon appeared on the ridge shouting, Misi Lao^ Misi Lao. Ruatoka called back, Misi Lao (Mr. Lawes), and all was right — spears were put away and they came to meet us, escort- ing us to a sort of reception room, where we all squatted, glad to get in the shade from the sun.
We were now about iioo feet above the sea level. We were surprised to see their houses built on the highest tree- tops they could find on the top of the ridge.
26 Adventure in New Guinea
One of the teachers remarked, ' Queer fellows these ; not only do they live on the mountain tops, but they must select the highest trees they can find for their houses.* We were very soon friends ; they seemed at ease, some smoking tobacco, others chewing betel-nuts. I changed my shirt, and when those near me saw my white skin they raised a shout that soon brought the others round. Bartering soon began — taro, sugar cane, sweet yams, and water were got in exchange for tobacco, beads, and cloth.
After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next village, five miles further along the ridge. Some of our party were too tired to accompany us ; they remained where we expected to camp for the night. After walk- ing some miles we came unexpectedly on some natives. As soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears, and seemed determined to dispute our way. By a number of signs — touching our chins with our right hands, &c. — they understood we were not foes, so they soon became friendly. They had their faces blackened with soot, plumbago, and gum, and then sprinkled over with white ; their mouths and teeth were in a terrible mess from chewing the betel-nut. On our leaving them, they shouted on to the next village. An old man lay outside on the platform of the next house we came to ; he looked terribly frightened as we approached him, but as, instead of injuring him we gave him a present, he soon rallied and got us water to drink. By-and-by a few gathered round. We understood them to say the most of the people were away on the plains hunting for wallabies. One young woman had a net over her shoulders and covering her breasts, as a token of
Early Experiences 27
mourning — an improvement on their ordinary attire, which is simply a short grass petticoat — the men nil.
After a short stay, we returned to where we thought of camping for the night, but for want of water we went on to the village we had visited in the forenoon. We slung our hammocks in the reception room, had supper, and turned in for the night. It felt bleak and cold, and the narrowness of the ridge made us careful, even in our sleep, lest we should fall out and over. On coming across the highest peak in the afternoon, we had a magnificent view of Mount Owen Stanley, with his two peaks rising far away above the other mountains by which he is surrounded. It must have been about thirty miles off, and, I should think, impossible to reach from where we were. We were entirely surrounded by mountains : mountains north, east, south, and west — above us and below us. I question if it will ever be a country worth settling in.
We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port Moresby, so, leaving the most of our party, who were too tired to come with us, to rest till Monday, Mr. Macfarlane, Ruatoka, and I set off on our return very early on Saturday morning, and had strangely difficult work in getting down the mountain side and along the river. Fireflies danced all round in hundreds, and we awakened many strange birds before their time, which gave forth a note or two, only to sleep again. Before daylight, we were at Mr. Goldie's camp, where we had breakfast, and hurried on for the river. We rested a short time there, and then away over plains to Port Moresby, which we reached about mid-day, tired indeed
28 Adventure in New Guinea
and very footsore. Oh, that shoemakers had only to wear the boots they send to missionaries !
Early on Sunday morning, a great many natives went out with their spears, nets and dogs, to hunt wallabies. A goodly number attended the forenoon service, when Mr. Lawes preached. A good many strangers were present from an inland village on the Astrolabe side. There is not yet much observance of the Sabbath. Poi, one of the chief men of the place, is very friendly : he kept quite a party of his inland friends from hunting, and brought them to the services. Mr. Lawes preached again in the afternoon. As we went to church in the afternoon the hunters were returning : they had evidently had a successful day's hunting. During the day a canoe came in from Hula, laden with old cocoa- nuts, which were traded for pottery.
In the evening, an old sorceress died, and great was the wailing over her body. She was buried on the Monday morning, just opposite the house in which she lived. A grave was dug two feet deep, and spread over with mats, on which the corpse was laid. Her husband lay on the body, in the grave, for some time, and, after some talking to the departed spirit, got up, and lay down by the side of the grave, covered with a mat. About mid-day, the grave was covered over with the earth, and friends sat on it weeping. The relatives of the dead put on mourning by blackening their bodies all over, and besmearing them with ashes.
On Oct. 31, the Bertha left for Kerepunu. As I was anxious to see all the mission stations along the coast between Port Moresby and Kerepunu, I remained, to accompany Mr. Lawes in the small schooner Mayri.
Early Experiences 29
We left on the following day, and sailed down the coast inside the reef We arrived at Tupuselei about mid- day. There were two teachers here, and Mr. Lawes having decided to remove one, we got him on board, and sailed for Kaili. The villages of Tupuselei and Kaili are quite in the sea. I fear they are very un- healthy— mangroves and low swampy ground abound. The Astrolabe Range is not far from the shore we were sailing along all day. There is a fine, bold coast-line, with many bays.
In the early morning our small vessel of only seven tons was crowded with natives. We left the vessel about nine A.M. for a walk inland, accompanied by a number of natives, who all went to their houses for their arms before they would leave their village. They have no faith whatever in one another. We passed through a large swamp covered with mangroves — then into a dense tropical bush, passing through a large grove of sago palms and large mango trees. The mangoes were small — about the size of a plum — and very sweet. At some distance inland I took up a peculiar-looking seed; one of the natives, thinking I was going to eat it, very earnestly urged me to throw it away, and with signs gave me to understand that if I ate it I should swell out to an enormous size, and die.
We walked about seven miles through bush, and then began the ascent of one of the spurs of the Astrolabe. On nearing the inland village for which we were bound, the natives became somewhat afraid, and the leader stopped, and, turning to Mr. Lawes, asked him if he would indeed not kill any of the people. He was assured all was right, and then he moved on a few
30 Adventure in New Guinea
paces, to stop again, and re-enquire if all was right. When reassured, we all went on, not a word spoken by anyone, and so in silence we entered the village. When we were observed, spears began rattling in the houses ; but our party shouted, Maino, maino (Peace, peace), Misi Lao, Misi Lao. The women escaped through the trap- doors in the floors of their houses, and away down the side of the hill into the bush. We reached the chiefs house, and there remained.
The people soon regained confidence, and came round us, wondering greatly at the first white men they had ever seen in their village. The women returned from their flight, and began to cook food, which, when ready, they brought to us, and of which we all heartily partook. We gave them presents, and they would not suffer us to depart till they had brought us a return present of uncooked food. They are a fine, healthy- looking people, lighter than those on the coast. Many were in deep mourning, and frightfully besmeared. There are a number of villages close by, on the various ridges. We returned by a different way, following the bed of what must be in the rainy season a large river. The banks were in many places from eight to nine feet high.
On the following morning, Nov. 3, we weighed anchor and set sail, passing Kapakapa, a double village in the sea. The houses are large and well built. There are numerous villages on the hills at the back of it, and not too far away to be visited. We anchored off Round Head, which does not, as represented on the charts, rise boldly from the sea. There is a plain between two and three miles broad, between the sea and the hill, called Round Head. There are many villages on the
Early Experiences 31
hills along this part of the coast. We anchored close to the shore. A number of natives were on the beach, but could not be induced to visit us on board. We went ashore to them after dinner. They knew Mr. Lawes by name only, and became more easy when he assured them that he was really and truly Misi Lao. They professed friendship by calling out, Maino^ mainOy catching hold of their noses, and pointing to their stomachs. After a little time, two ventured to accom- pany Mr. Lawes on board, and received presents. I remained ashore, astonishing others by striking matches, and showing off my arms and chest. The women were so frightened that they all kept at a respectful distance. These are the natives from an inland village that killed a Port Moresby native about the beginning of the year. When those who accompanied Mr. Lawes on board the Mayri returned to the shore, they were instantly surrounded by their friends, who seized the presents and made off They had received fish, biscuit, and taro. The taro and fish were smelt all over, and carefully examined before eaten. The biscuit was wrapped up again in the paper.
On Sunday, Nov. 4, we were beating down through innumerable reefs, and at eight P.M. we anchored about three miles from Hula. The following morning we went up to the village, the Mayri anchoring close by the houses. The country about here looks fine and green, a very striking contrast to that around Port Moresby. The further east we get from Port Moresby, the finer the country looks. The people are also superior — finer-made men and women, and really pretty boys and girls — more, altogether, like our eastern South
32 Adventure in New Guinea
Sea Islanders. The married women spoil their looks by keeping their heads shaven. They seem fond of their children : men and women nurse them. They were busy preparing their large canoes to visit Port Moresby, on the return of the Port Moresby canoes from the west with sago.
About three in the afternoon an old woman made her appearance at the door of the mission house, bawl- ing out, * Well, what liars these Hula people are ! some of them were inland this morning, and the chief asked them if Misi Lao had come, and they said No.' The chief, who saw the vessel from the hill top where his village is, thought it strange the vessel should be there without Misi Lao, so sent this woman to learn the truth. She received a present for herself and the chief, and went away quite happy.
Next morning, Nov. 6, we left Hula with a fair wind, and were anchored close to Kerepunu by nine A.M. The Bertha was anchored fully two miles off. Kerepunu is a magnificent place, and its people are very fine-looking. It is one large town of seven districts, with fine houses, all arranged in streets ; crotons and other plants growing about, and cockatoos perching in front of nearly every house. One part of the population plant, another fish, and the planters buy the fish with their produce. Men, women, and children are all workers ; they go to their plantations in the morning and return to their homes in the evening, only sick ones remaining at home ; thus accounting for the number of scrofulous people we saw going about when we first landed. They have a rule, to which they strictly adhere all the year round, of working for two days and resting the third.
Early Experiences 33
The Bertha arrived here on Friday evening. Mrs. Chalmers was at the forenoon service on the Sunday, and found there a large congregation. The service was held on the platform of one of the largest houses. Anederea preached, a number sitting on the platform, others in the house, others on the ground all round, and many at the doors of their own houses, where they could hear all that was said.
Mr. Lawes decided to remain at Kerepunu, to revise for the press a small book Anederea has been preparing, and to follow us to Teste Island in the Ellengowan. We left Kerepunu on the morning of Nov. 8, the Mayri leaving at the same time, to sail down inside the surf We went right out to sea, so as to beat down, had fine weather, and were off Teste Island by Nov. i6. After dinner we took the boat, and with the captain went in on the east side of the island through the reef, to sound and find anchorage.
When we reached the lagoon, a catamaran with three natives on it came off to us. We asked for Koitau, the chief, which at once gave them confidence in us, so that they came alongside, one getting into the boat. He expressed his friendship to us in the usual way, viz., by touching his nose and stomach, and, being very much excited, seized hold of Mr. Macfarlane and rubbed noses with him, doing the same to me. He received a present of a piece of hoop-iron and some red braid, which greatly pleased him. We found the water was deep enough over the reef for the vessel, and good anchorage inside. We went on to the village, to see about the supply of water.
The people were very friendly, and crowded round
C
34 Adventure in New Guinea
us. We were led up to a platform in front of one of their large houses, and there seated and regaled with cocoanuts. The natives here are much darker than are those at Kerepunu ; most of them suffer from a very offensive-looking skin disease, which causes the skin to peel off in scales. In their conversation with one another I recognised several Polynesian words. The water is obtained by digging in the sand, and is very brackish.
We came to anchor next morning, and soon were surrounded with canoes, and our deck swarmed with natives trading their curios, yams, cocoanuts and fish for beads and hoop-iron. Many were swearing friend- ship, and exchanging names with us, in hopes of getting hoop-iron. There is as great a demand for hoop-iron here as for tobacco at Port Moresby. They told us they disliked fighting, but delighted in the dance, betel- nut, and sleep. The majority have jet-black teeth, which they consider very beautiful, and all have their noses and ears pierced, with various sorts of nose and ear-rings, chiefly made from shell, inserted. A crown piece could easily be put through the lobe of their ears.
We went ashore in the afternoon. There are three villages, all close to one another. Their houses are built on poles, and are shaped liked a canoe turned bottom upwards, others like one in the water. They ornament their houses on the outside with cocoanuts and shells. The nabobs of the place had skulls on the posts of their houses, which they said belonged to the enemies they had killed and eaten. One skull was very much fractured ; they told us it was done with a stone axe, and showed us how they used these weapons.
Early Experiences 35
We tried to explain to them that no one was to come to the vessel the next day, as it was a sacred day. In the early morning some canoes came off to trade, but we sent them ashore ; a few more followed about breakfast time, which were also sent ashore. In the afternoon our old friend of the preceding day came off with his wife and two sons. He called out that he did not wish to come on board, but that he had brought some cooked food. We accepted his present, and he remained with his family in his canoe alongside the vessel for some time, and then went quietly ashore. We had three services on board, one in the forenoon in Lifuan, in the afternoon in Rarotongan, and in the evening in English.
As Teste Island is about twenty miles from the mainland, with a dead beat to it, I decided to seek for a position more accessible to New Guinea, and as I had not a teacher to spare for this little island, Mr. Macfarlane decided to leave two of the Loyalty Island teachers here. It is fertile, and appears healthy, is two-and-a-half miles long and half a mile broad. A ridge of hills runs right through its centre from east- north-east to west-south-west. The natives have some fine plantations on the north side, and on the south and east sides they have yam plantations to the very tops of the hills. There are plantations and fruit trees all round the island.
On Monday I accompanied Mr. Macfarlane when he went ashore to make arrangements to land his teachers and secure a house for them. The people seemed pleased that some of our party would remain with them. Mr. Macfarlane at once chose a house on a
36 Adventure in New Guinea
point of land a good way from our landing-place, and at the end of the most distant village. The owner was willing to give up the house until the teachers could build one for themselves, so it was at once taken and paid for. We came along to our old friend's place, near the landing, when we were told that the house taken was a very bad one. In the first place, the position was unhealthy, in the second, that was the point where their enemies from Basilaki (Moresby Island) always landed when they came to fight, and the people could not protect the teachers if so far off when their foes came. All agreed in this, and a fine new house which had never been occupied was offered and taken, the same price being paid for it as for the other one. This house is close to the landing-place, and in the midst of the people. The owner of the first house offered to return the things, but we thought it would not be ruinous to let him keep them, their English value being about ten shillings.
We passed a tabooed place, or rather would have done so, had we not been forced to take a circuitous path in the bush. None of the natives spoke as we passed the place, nor till we were clear of it ; they made signs also to us to be silent. A woman had died there lately, and the friends were still mourning. There had been no dancing in the settlement since the death, nor would there be any for some days to come.
I think women are more respected here than they are in some other heathen lands. They seem to keep fast hold of their own possessions. A man stole an ornament belonging to his wife, and sold it for hoop- iron on board the Bertha. When he went ashore he
Early Experiences 37
was met on the beach by his spouse, who had in the meantime missed her trinket ; she assailed him with tongue, stick and stone, and demanded the hoop-iron.
The teachers were landed in the afternoon, and were well received. The natives all promised to care for them, and treat them kindly. There are about 250 natives on the island. No Ellengowan appearing, we determined to leave this on Wednesday, Nov. 21, and to proceed to Moresby Island. Next morning we left, but, owing to light winds, we did not anchor in Hoop Iron Bay, off Moresby Island, till the morning of Nov. 22. The anchorage here is in an open road- stead. It is a very fine island — the vegetation from the water's edge right up to the mountain tops. Planta- tions are to be seen all round. The people live in small detached companies, and are not so pleasant and friendly-looking a people as are the Teste Islanders. This is the great Basilaki, and the natives are apparently the deadly foes of all the islanders round. Before we anchored, we were surrounded by catamarans (three small logs lashed together) and canoes — spears in them all.
Mr. Macfarlane decided, as soon as we came to the island, that he would not land his teachers here ; and I did not consider it a suitable place as a head station for New Guinea. We left Moresby Island at six A.M. on Nov. 23, and beat through Fortescue Straits, between Moresby and Basilisk Islands. The scenery was grand — everything looked so fresh and green, very different from the death-like appearance of Port Moresby and vicinity. The four teachers were close behind us, in their large whale-boat, with part of their
38 Adventure in New Guinea
things. On getting out of the Straits, we saw East Cape ; but, as there is no anchorage there, we made for Killerton Island, about ten miles from the Cape. The wind being very light, it was eight P.M. before we anchored : the boat got up an hour after us. There was apparently great excitement ashore; lights were moving about in all directions, but none came to us. In the morning, a catamaran with two boys ventured alongside of us; they got a present, and went away shouting. Soon we were surrounded tvith catamarans and canoes, with three or four natives in each. They had no spears with them, nor did they kill a dog on our quarter-deck, as they did on that of the Basilisk. They appeared quite friendly, and free from shyness. They brought off their curios to barter for beads, red cloth, and the much-valued hoop-iron. The whole country looked productive and beautiful. After breakfast, we went ashore, and were led through swampy ground to see the water. On our return to the shore, we went in search of a position for the mission settlement, but could not get one far enough away from the swamp, so we took the boat and sailed a mile or two nearer the Cape, where we found an excellent position near a river. Mr. Macfarlane obtained a fine new house for the teachers, in which they are to remain till they get a house built. We took all the teachers' goods ashore, which the natives helped to carry to the house. One man, who considered himself well dressed, kept near us all day. He had a pair of trousers, minus a leg : he fastened the body of the trousers round his head, and let the leg fall gracefully down his back.
On the following morning, two large canoes — twenty
Early Experiences 39
paddles in each — came in from somewhere about Milne Bay. They remained for some time near the shore, getting all the news they could about us from the shore folk ; then the leader amongst them stood up and caught his nose and pointed to his stomach — we doing the same. The large canoes went ashore, and the chief came off to us in a small one. We gave him a present, which greatly pleased him.
After breakfast, we went ashore to hold a service with the teachers. We met under a large tree, near their house. About 600 natives were about us, and all round outside of the crowd were men armed with spears and clubs. Mr. Macfarlane preached. When the first hymn was being sung, a number of women and children got up and ran into the bush. The service was short ; at its close we sat down and sang hymns, which seemed to amuse them greatly. The painted and armed men were not at all pleasant-looking fellows.
At two in the morning (Monday) we weighed anchor and returned to Moresby Island. The wind was very light, and we had to anchor at the entrance to Fortescue Straits. Next morning we sailed through the Straits, and, on coming out on the opposite side, we were glad to see the Bertha beating outside. By noon we were on board the Bertha, and off for South Cape, the Mayri going to Teste Island with a letter, telling the captain of the Ellengowan to follow us, and also to see if the teachers were all right.
By evening we were well up to South Cape. The captain did not care to get too near at night, and stood away till morning. About ten next morning I accom- panied the captain in the boat, to sound and look for
40 Adventure in New Guinea
anchorage, which we found in 22 fathoms, near South- West Point. By half-past five that evening we anchored. The excitement ashore was great, and before the anchor/ was really down we were surrounded by canoes. As a people, they are small and puny, and much darker than the Eastern Polynesians. They were greatly excited over Pi's baby, a fine plump little fellow, seven months old, who, beside them, seemed a white child. Indeed, all they saw greatly astonished them. Canoes came off to us very early in the morning. About half-past seven, when we were ready to go ashore, there arose great consternation amongst the natives. Three large war canoes, with conch shells blowing, appeared off the mainland and paddled across the Mayri Straits. Soon a large war canoe appeared near the vessel. A great many small canoes from various parts of the mainland were ordered off by those on whose side we were anchored. They had to leave. On their departure a great shout was raised by the victorious party, and in a short time all returned quietly to their bartering. It seemed that the Stacy Islanders wished to keep all the bartering to themselves. They did not wish the rest to obtain hoop-iron or any other foreign wealth. They are at feud with one party on the mainland, and I suppose in their late contests have been victorious, for they told us with great exultation that they had lately killed and eaten ten of their enemies from the mainland.
About nine, we went ashore near the anchorage. I crossed the island to the village, but did not feel satisfied as to the position. One of our guides to the village wore, as an armlet, the jawbone of a man from
Early Experiences 41
the mainland he had killed and eaten ; others strutted about with human bones dangling from their hair, and about their necks. It is only the village Tepauri on the mainland with which they are unfriendly. We returned to the boat, and sailed along the coast. On turning a cape, we came to a pretty village, on a well- wooded point. The people were friendly, and led us to see the water, of which there is a good supply. This is the spot for which we have been in search as a station for beginning work. We can go anywhere from here, and are surrounded by villages. The mainland is not more than a gun-shot across. God has led us. We made arrangements for a house for the teachers ; then returned to the vessel.
In the afternoon, I landed the teachers, their wives, and part of their goods — the people helping to carry the stuff to the house. The house in which the teachers are to reside till our own is finished is the largest in the place, but they can only get the use of one end of it — the owner, who considers himself the chief man of the place, requiring the other end for himself and family. The partition between the two ends is only two feet high. Skulls, shells, and cocoanuts are hung all about the house ; the skulls are those of the enemies he and his people have eaten. Inside the house, hung up on the wall, is a very large collection of human bones, bones of animals and of fish.
I selected a spot for our house on the point of land nearest the mainland. It is a large sand hill, and well wooded at the back. We have a good piece of land, with bread-fruit and other fruit trees on it, which I hope soon to have cleared and planted with food, for the
42 Adventure in New Guinea
benefit of the teachers who may be here awaiting their stations, as well as for the teacher for the place. The frontage is the Straits, with the mainland right opposite. There is a fine anchorage close to the house for vessels of any size.
Early next morning there was great excitement ashore. The large war canoe came off, with drums beating and men dancing. They came alongside the Bertha, and presented us with a small pig and food. Then the men came on board and danced. The captain gave them a return present. Mr. Macfarlane and I went ashore immediately after breakfast, and found that the teachers had been kindly treated. We gave some natives a few axes, who at once set off to cut wood for the house, and before we returned to the vessel in the evening two posts were up. As the Bertha's time was up, and the season for the trade winds closing, everything was done to get on with the house. Mr. Macfarlane worked well. Two men from the Bertha and two from the Mayri joined with the four teachers in the work, and by Tuesday the frame- work was nearly up. We landed our things that day, and immediately after breakfast on Wednesday, December 5, we went ashore to reside; and about ten A.M. the Bertha left. On the Tuesday, Mr. Macfarlane and I visited several villages on the mainland : three in a deep bay, which must be very unhealthy, from the many swamps and high mountains around. The people appeared friendly, and got very excited over the presents we gave them.
We got an old foretopsail from the captain, which we rigged up as a tent, in which the teachers slept, we
Early Experiences 43
occupying their quarters. We enjoyed a good night's rest. In early morning the house was surrounded with natives, many of whom were armed. They must wonder at our staying here : they consider our goods to consist entirely of hoop -iron, axes, knives, and arrowroot. About eleven A.M. the war canoes were launched on the opposite side of the water. The excitement here was then great. I met a lad running with painted skulls to the war canoe of this village. Soon it was decorated with skulls, shells, cocoanuts and streamers, and launched. Those on the opposite side came out into the deep bay ; ours remained stationary till the afternoon, when about thirty men got into her, and away towards Farm Bay to trade their hoop-iron for sago.
On Sunday, we met for our usual public services under a large tree, and a number of natives attended, who of course could not make out what was said, as they were conducted in Rarotongan. At our morning and evening prayers numbers are always about who seem to enjoy the singing. We see quite a number of strangers every day — some from Brumer Island, Tissot, Teste, China Straits, Catamaran Bay, Farm Bay, and other places. Those from Vakavaka — a place over by China Straits — are lighter and better -looking than those here. The women there do not seem to tattoo themselves. Here they tattoo themselves all over their faces and bodies, and make themselves look very ugly. I have not seen one large man or woman amongst them all.
We had much difficulty in getting a sufficient supply of plaited cocoanut leaves for the walls and roof of
44 Adventure in New Guinea
our house. By Dec. 12 we had the walls and roof finished, when all our party moved into it. We had a curtain of unbleached calico put up between the teachers' end and ours, and curtains for doors and windows, but were glad to get into it in that unfinished state : the weather was breaking, and we felt anxious about the teachers sleeping in the tent when it rained, and we had no privacy at all where we were, and were tired of squatting on the ground, for we could not get a chair in our part of the house ; indeed, the flooring was of such a construction that the legs of a chair or table would have soon gone through it. On Dec. 1 3 we were busy getting the wood we had cut for the flooring of our house into the sea to be rafted along ; got ten large pieces into the water by breakfast- time.
After breakfast, Mrs. Chalmers and I were at the new house, with the captain of the Mayri, when we heard a noise like quarrelling. On looking out, I saw the natives very excited, and many of them running with spears and clubs towards the house where Mrs. Chalmers, about five minutes before, had left the teachers rising from breakfast. I hastened over, and pushed my way amongst the natives till I got to the front, when, to my horror, I was right in front of a gun aimed by one of the Mayri's crew (who had been helping us with the house) at a young man brandishing a spear. The aim was perfect : had the gun been fired — as it would have been had I not arrived in time — the native would have been shot dead. I pushed the native aside, and ordered the gun to be put down, and turned to the natives, shouting, Besi^ Besi ! (Enough,
Early Experiences 45
enough!) Some of them returned their spears and clubs, but others remained threatening. I spoke to our party against using firearms, and then I caught the youth who was flourishing his spear, and with difficulty got it from him. Poor fellow, he cried with rage, yet he did me no harm. I clapped him, and got him to go away. All day he sat under a tree, which we had frequently to pass, but he would have nothing to say to us. It seems a knife had been stolen, and he being the only one about the house when it was missed, was accused of taking it. One of the teachers was winding line, and he caught the young fellow by the arm to inquire about the knife. The lad thought he was going to be tied up with the line : he struggled, got free, and raised the alarm.
Only the night before I had to warn the teachers against using firearms to alarm or threaten the natives. An axe was stolen ; every place about was searched for it, and for some time without its being found. At last, a native found it buried in the sand near where it was last used. It had evidently been hidden there till a favourable opportunity should occur of taking it away. During the search, the owner of the axe (one of the teachers) ran off for his gun, and came rushing over with it. I ordered him to take it back, and in the evening told them it was only in New Guinea that guns were used by missionaries. It was not so in any other mission I knew of, and if we could not live amongst the natives without arms, we had better remain at home ; and if I saw arms used again by them for any- thing, except birds, or the like, I should have the whole of them thrown into the sea.
46 Adventure in New Guinea
In the afternoon of Dec. 14 I went over to the house in which we had been staying, to stir up the teachers to get the things over more quickly; Mrs. Chalmers remain- ing at the new house to look after the things there, as, without doors or flooring, everything was exposed. I went to the seaside to call to the captain of the Mayri, to send us the boat ashore, when, on looking towards my left, I saw twenty armed natives hurrying along. Though painted, I recognised some of them as those who were very friendly on board the Bertha, and spoke to them ; but they hurried past, frowning and saying something I did not understand. They went straight on to the chief's house, and surrounded our party. I passed through, and stood in front of them. One very ugly-looking customer was brandishing his spear close by me. It was an anxious moment, and one in which I am sure many would have used firearms. I called out to the teachers, * Remain quiet.' Our chief sprung out on to the platform in front of the house and harangued. He was very excited. Shortly he called to the teachers in signs and words, to bring out their guns and fire. They refused. He then rushed into the house and seized a gun, and was making off with it when one of the teachers caught hold of him. I, seeing the teacher with the chief, thought something w4s wrong, and went to them. We quieted him, and did our best to explain to him that we were no fighters, but men of peace. The babel all round us was terrible. By-and-by a request was made to me to give the chief from the other side a present, and get him away. I said, * No ; had he come in peace, and as a chief, I would have given him a present, but I will not do so now.' They retired
Early Expenences^^*^ 47
to deliberate, and sent another request for a present. ' No ; no presents to men in arms. If the chief returns to-morrow unarmed, he will get a present' It seems they are vexed with our living here instead of with them, because they find those here are getting what they consider very rich by our living with them. When quiet was restored, we returned to the carrying of our things. When we came to the last few things, our chief objected to their removal until he got a farewell present. He had been paid for the use of the house before any of us entered it ; but we gave him another present, and so finished the business.
Our large cross-cut saw was stolen during the hubbub. It belonged to the teachers at East Cape. It had only been lent to us, so we had to get it back. The next morning the chief from the other side came to see me. He received a present, and looked particularly sheepish when I tried to explain to him that we did not like fighting. All day I took care to show that I was very displeased at the loss of the saw, and by the evening I was told that it had been taken by those on the other side ; and offers of returning it were made, but I saw I was expected to buy it from them. I said, ' No ; I will not buy what was stolen from me ; the saw must be returned, and I will give an axe to the one who goes for it, and fetches it to me.'
The following day, Sunday, Dec. 15, we held the usual services under a large tree near the mission house ; a great many strangers present ; the latter were very troublesome. On Monday afternoon the saw was returned. The Mayri left us that day, to visit the teachers at East Cape. The people are getting quieter.
48 Adventure in New Guinea
At present they are chiefly interested in the sawing of the wood for the flooring of the house. They work wilHngly for a piece of hoop-iron and a few beads, but cannot do much continuously. They seem to have no kind of worship, and their sports are few. The children swing, bathe, and sail small canoes. The grown-up people have their dance — a very poor sort of thing. A band of youths, with drums, stand close together, and in a most monotonous tone sing whilst they beat the drums. The dancers dance round the men once or twice, and all stop to rest a bit. I have been twice present when only the women danced. They bury their dead, and place houses over the graves, which they fence round, planting crotons, bananas, etc., inside. They do their cooking inside their houses. It was very hot and uncomfortable when we were in the native house. The master being a sort of a chief, and having a large household, a great deal of cooking was required. Three large fires were generally burning in their end of house for the greater part of the day. The heat and smoke from these fires w^ere not nice. Indeed, they generally had one or two burning all night, to serve for blankets, I suppose.
We went on with our work about the place, getting on well with the natives and with those from other parts. We became so friendly with the natives that I had hoped to go about with them in their canoes. Several natives from one of the settlements invited me to visit their place, and said that if I went with them in their canoe they would return me. 1 went with them, and was well received by all the people at the settlement, where I spent some hours. On the 21st of December
Early Experiences 49
the Mayri returned from East Cape, and reported that all were sick, but that the people were very friendly and kind to teachers. Anxious to keep the vessel employed, and to prepare the way for landing teachers, I resolved to visit a settlement on the mainland at deadly feud with this people. The people here tried hard to dissuade me from going, telling me that as I stayed with them my head would be cut off. Seeing me determined to go, they brought skulls, saying, mine would be like that, to adorn their enemies' war canoe, or hang outside of chief's house. Feeling sure that they did not wish me to go because they were afraid the hoop-iron, the knives, axes, beads, and cloth might also be distributed on the other side, I told them I must go ; so they left me to my fate.
I took the teacher with me that I hoped to leave there. We were received very kindly by the people. They led us inland, to show us there was water, and when we got back to the seaside they regaled us with sugar-cane and cocoanuts. They then told us that they did not live at the village, but at the next, and merely came here for food. We then got into a canoe, and were paddled up to the other village, where a great crowd assembled, and where we publicly gave the chiefs our presents. They danced with delight, and told the teacher not to be long until he came to reside with them.
On our return we thought our friends seemed dis- appointed. We had suffered no harm ; however, as I had been unwell for some days, and felt worse on the day following my trip, they felt comforted, and assured me it was because of our visiting Tepauri. We had several things stolen, and amongst other things a camp
D
so Adventure in New Guinea
oven, which we miss much. Yet these are things which must be borne, and we can hope that some day their stealing propensities will change. From a very unex- pected source, and in a very unexpected manner, the whole prospects of this eastern mission seemed all at once to be upset. I do not think I can do better than extract from my journal for the next few days.
Dechnber 29. — About twelve o'clock three lads from the Mayri came ashore to cut firewood. One of them came to me, saying, ' I 'fraid, sir, our captain he too fast with natives. One big fellow he come on board, and he sit down below. Captain he tell him get up ; he no get up. Captain he get sword, and he tell him, s'pose he no get up he cut head off; he get up, go ashore. I fear he no all right.' They left me and went towards the sawpit. Some men were clearing at the back of my house, some were putting up a cook-house, and the teachers were sawing wood. On the cook- house being finished, I was paying the men, when, on hearing a great noise, I rose up and saw those who were at the sawpit running away and leaping the fence, and heard firing as if from the vessel. I rushed into the house with my bag, and then out to see what it was. I saw natives on board the Mayri, and some in canoes; they were getting the hawser ashore, and pulling up the anchor, no doubt to take the vessel Everywhere natives were appearing, some armed, and others unarmed. Two of the lads from the vessel, wishing to get on board, went to their boat, but found the natives would not let it go. I shouted to the natives detaining it to let it go, which they did. Had I not been near, they would certainly have been fired
Early Experiences 51
upon by the two lads, who were armed with muskets. Before the boat got to the vessel I saw natives jump overboard, and soon the firing became brisker. I rushed along the beach, calling upon the natives to get into the bush, and to those on board to cease firing. Firing ceased, and soon I heard great wailing at the chief's house, where I was pressed to go. A man was shot through the leg and arm. On running through the village to the house to get something for the wounded man, I was stopped to see a young man bleeding profusely, shot through the left arm, the bullet entering the chest. I got some medicine and applied it to both.
When I reached the house I found Mrs. Chalmers the only calm person there. Natives were all around armed. When at the chiefs house with medicine I was told there was still another, and he was on board. They kept shouting, * Bocasi, Bocasi,' the name of the man who was on board in the morning. I found a small canoe all over blood, and two natives paddled me off. On getting alongside, I saw the captain sitting on deck, looking very white, and blood all about him. I asked, * Is there still a man on board ? ' Answer : * Yes.' * Is he shot ? ' ' Yes.' * Dead ? ' ' Yes.' He was dead, and lying below. I was afraid to remain long on board, and would not risk landing with the body ; nor would it do for the body to be landed before me, as then I might be prevented from landing at all ; so I got into the canoe, in which one native was sitting. The other was getting the body to place in the canoe ; but I said, * Not in this one, but a larger one.' So ashore I went, and hastened to the house. I understood the
52 ' Adventure in New Guinea
captain to say that they attempted to take his life, and this big man, armed with a large sugar-cane knife, was coming close up, and he shot him dead. The captain's foot was frightfully cut. He had a spear head in his side, and several other wounds.
The principal people seemed friendly, and kept assuring us that all was right, we should not be harmed. Great was the wailing when the body was landed, and arms were up and down pretty frequently. Canoes began to crowd in from the regions around. A man who has all along been very friendly and kept close by us advised us strongly to leave during the night, as, assuredly, when the war canoes from the different parts came in, we should be murdered. Mrs. Chalmers decidedly opposed our leaving. God would protect us. The vessel was too small, and not provisioned, and to leave would be losing our position as well as endanger- ing Teste and East Cape. We came here for Christ's work, and He would protect us.
In the dusk one of the crew came ashore, saying that the captain was very ill, and wanted to go off to Murray Island. I could not go on board, and leave them here. We consented to the vessel's leaving, and I gave the lad some medicine for the captain, and asked him to send on shore all he could spare in the way of beads, etc. I took all that was necessary, and about half-past seven the vessel left. We were told we should have to pay something to smooth over the trouble, which we were quite willing to do. Late at night we had things ready. We had our evening prayers in Rarotongan, reading Psalm xlvi., and feeling that God was truly our refuge.
Early Experiences 53
People were early about on Dec. 30. We gave the things which were prepared, and they were accepted. The people from the settlement to which the man belonged who was shot came to attack us, but the people here ordered them back. Many people came in from islands and mainland. A number of so-called chiefs tell us no one will injure us, and that we can go on with our work. We thought it not well to have services out of doors to-day, so held prayer-meetings in the house.
Great crowds came in from all round on Dec. 31, and many war canoes. The people were extremely impudent, jumping the fence and taking no heed of what we said. One of the chief men of the settle- ment to which the man who was shot belongs returned from Vaare (Teste Island). He seemed friendly, and I gave him a present.
I had an invitation to attend a cannibal feast at one of the settlements. Some said it would consist of two men and a child, others of five and a child.
The people continued troublesome all day, and seemed to think we had nothing else to do than attend to their demands.
January I, 1878. — We were told we might be attacked. There was a great wailing assembly at the other village. A canoe from Tanosine, with a great many ugly-looking men, passed, and our friends here seemed to fear they would attack us. We thought everything settled, and that we should have no more to pay. The warp belonging to the Mayri was carried past to-day and offered for sale; but I would have nothing to do with it. We have tried the meek and
54 Adventure in New Guinea
quiet up till now, and they only become more impudent and threatening.
Having tried the peaceful and pleasant, we deter- mined to show the natives that we were not afraid, and resisted every demand, and insisted that there should be no more leaping the fence. On demands being made, I shouted, ' No more ; wait, and when Beri- tama fighting canoe comes, then make your demands.' They seemed afraid, and became less troublesome.
In the afternoon of January 2, the parties who have the hawser brought it to me ; but I would have nothing to do with it. I told them if Ponairo, the settlement of the man who was shot, determines to attack us, let them come, we, too, can fight. One of the teachers fired off his gun at some distance from a bread-fruit tree, and the bullet went clean through a limb of it; it caused great exclamations, and crowds went to look at it.
The hawser was returned and left outside. We took no notice of it. The people were much quieter, and no demands were made. The cannibal feast was held. Some of our friends appeared with pieces of human flesh dangling from their neck and arms. The child was spared for a future time, it being considered too small. Amidst all the troubles Mrs. Chalmers was the only one who kept calm and well.
The EUengowan arrived on January 20. The natives were beginning to think no vessel would come ; but when it arrived they were frightened, and willing to forget the Mayri affair. A few days before she arrived some of our friends warned us against going too far away from the house. After her arrival we were able to go about among the people again.
CHAPTER II
A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS
Start eastwards from Heath Island — Naroopoo — Trading with Natives — Landing at Roux Island — Interview with the Chief — The Man with the club — Effect of a gunshot on the natives — Ellengowan Bay — Narrow Escape — The steam-whistle use- ful— Attempt to go inland unsuccessful — Amazons — Women chief instigators of quarrels — Toulon Island — The real 'Amazons' Land' — How the report arose — Cloudy Bay — Interview with the Chief — Sandbank Bay — A hurried time — Dufaure Island — Attack on Mr. Chalmers by Aroma natives — Defended by some of the natives — Attack due to evil conduct of white men — Intentions of the natives — Heathen customs — Pigs — Planting — Trading — Sickness.
The Ellengowan had been thoroughly refitted at Sydney; and in the spring of 1878, accompanied by my wife, I embarked on a cruise from east to west along the south coast of New Guinea. The little steamer was commanded by Captain Dudfield, and manned by an efficient native crew. Communication was held with some two hundred villages, one hundred and five were personally visited, and ninety for the first time by a white man. Several bays, harbours, rivers, and islands were discovered and named ; the country between Meikle and Orangerie Bays, together with that lying at the back of Kerepunu was explored, and
65
56 Adventure in New Guinea
the entire coast line from Keppel Point to Macfarlane Harbour, traversed on foot.
In travelling through a new country, it is impossible not to have many experiences that may interest those at home, although to the traveller they may seem of little moment. In May, 1878, I began my journeys on New Guinea, in parts hitherto unknown, and amongst tribes supposed to be hostile. I resolved, come what might, to travel unarmed, trusting to Him in whose work I was engaged, and feeling that no harm could come to me while in His care.
On leaving Heath Island we really began on new and little known seas and country, and we first anchored in a bay we called Inverary Bay. On land- ing we were met by a few men, the others coming out with goods and chattels. We steamed round by the Leocadie, through what forms a good harbour for small vessels, and over by the sandbanks in Catamaran Bay. We called at Tanosina, to the east of the Leocadie, landing with caution, as these people had been very troublesome on our first arrival at South Cape, and were very anxious to avenge the man shot on board the Mayri. They did not receive us heartily, and seemed inclined to be impudent, so I thought it best, after giving one or two presents, to get quietly to the boat and away. I may here say that in after times these people were very friendly, and helped us much in our work. We visited all round the bay, returning to South Cape.
After getting a supply of water and fuel on board, we started again, going east round Rugged Head to Farm Bay, and well up to the head of the bay.
A Few Trip Incidents 57
anchoring opposite to Naroopoo. I landed, and soon had an admiring crowd round me. I was dressed in white, with black leather boots. Sitting on a verandah, some, more daring than others, would come up, touch my shirt and trousers, bite their fingers and run away. Again and again this was done by the bold ones, who always eyed my boots. After consultation, one old woman mustered courage, came up, touched my trousers, and finally my boots. She was trembling all over, but, horror of horrors, to add to her fear, lifting my foot, I pulled my boot off; she screamed and ran, some others setting out with her, and did not stop until quite out of sight.
After visiting several villages, and finding that the bay was thickly populated, I went on board. The following morning many canoes came alongside, and on our getting up steam were much afraid. It was evident they wanted to show us that they had confidence in us, but it was difficult with the steam up, the snorting and general commotion on board being so great. We warned them on getting up anchor to clear off. Why should they ? There was no sail, nor were we going to move. A commotion aft, canoes with crews clearing away to a very safe distance. One canoe hanging on is pulled under, a wild shout, a moment's silence, and then there is a loud roar of laughter, when they see canoe and paddlers appear astern at some distance. We rounded One Tree Point, and could see no entrance to a bay, just a few miles beyond, but since explored and named Lawes Bay. Keeping on, we anchored outside of the Roux Islands, in a fine safe harbour. Before leaving our friends at South Cape, they were
58 Adventure in New Guinea
boasting of having visited some place on the coast, where, on showing their large knives, the natives all left, they helping themselves to a good many things.
We had some difficulty in getting a canoe to come alongside, and it was not until we had fastened a piece of red cloth to a stick, and floated it astern, that the first canoe would come near. The natives approached, picked up the red cloth, and in showing them pieces of hoop-iron, they gradually came near enough to take hold of a piece, look well at it, and finally decide to come alongside. Once alongside we were soon fraternising, and on seeing this other canoes came off, and trading for curios began. Asking the captain to keep on trading as long as possible, I hastened ashore, to see the chief of one of the villages. As long as trading canoes remain alongside, the parties landing are perfectly safe ; care should be taken to get away as soon as possible after the canoes leave the vessel.
The tide was far out when our boat touched the beach. A crowd met us, and in every hand was a club or spear. I went on to the bow, to spring ashore, but was warned not to land. I told them I had come to see the chief, had a present for him, and must see him.
' Give us your present, and we will give it to him, but you must not land.'
* I am Tamate, from Suau, and have come as a friend to visit your old chief, and I must land.'
An elderly woman came close up to the boat, saying, * You must not land, but I will take the present, or,' pointing to a young man close by, * he will take it for his father,' he being the chief's son.
* No ; I must see the chief for myself; but the son I
A Few Trip Incidents S9
should also like to know, and will give him a present too.'
Springing ashore, followed by the mate, a fine daring fellow, much accustomed to roughing it on the diggings, and not the least afraid of natives, I walked up the long beach to the village, to the chiefs house. The old man was seated on the platform in front of the house, and did not even deign to rise to receive us. I told him who I was, and the object of my coming. He heard me through, and treated the whole as stale news. I placed my present on the platform in front of him, and waited for some word of satisfaction ; but none escaped the stern old chieftain. Presents of beads were handed to little children in arms, but indignantly returned. Loud laughing in the outskirts of crowd and little jostling.
* Gould,' said I to the mate, * I think we had better get away from here ; keep eyes all round, and let us make quietly to the beach.'
To the chief I said, * Friend, I am going, you stay.* Lifting his eyebrows, he said, * Go.'
We were followed by the crowd, one man with a large round club walking behind me, and uncomfort- ably near. Had I that club in my hand, I should feel a little more comfortable. When on the beach we saw the canoes had left the vessel, and were hurrying ashore ; our boat was soon afloat, still, we had some distance to go. I must have that club, or I fear that club will have me. I had a large piece of hoop-iron, such as is highly prized by the natives, in my satchel ; taking it, I wheeled quickly round, presented it to the savage, whose eyes were dazzled as with a bar of gold. With my left
6o Adventure in New Guinea
hand I caught the club, and before he became conscious of what was done I was heading the procession, armed as a savage, and a good deal more comfortable. We got safely away.
From Fyfe Bay we went round to Meikle Bay, where I visited all the villages, and was well received. Before landing I decided to walk inland, and see for myself if there was no arm of the sea running up at the back. The charts showed no such thing, but I felt sure, from the formation of the land and the manner of clouds hanging over it, that there must be a lake or some large sheet of water, and that there must be considerable streams carrying off the water of the Lome Range and Cloudy Mountains, as no stream of any size came to the sea on the coast-side. I got the chief of the village at the head of the bay and a large following to show us the way. We travelled for some miles through good country, and at last came out opposite a large sheet of water, stretching well up towards Cloudy Mountain and away towards the head of Milne Bay. Seeing the Stirling Range, I was able to take a few positions.
Our mate, who had his fowling-piece with him, saw a very pretty parrot on a cocoanut tree. He approached until close under — the natives, about forty in number, standing breathlessly round, and wondering what was going to happen. Bang ! Down dropped the parrot ; a wail, hands to ears, a shout, and we were left alone with the chief, who happened to be standing close by me. Those natives only ceased running when they reached their homes.
We visited several villages, and at sundown re- turned. In the dark we travelled along the bed of a
A Few Trip Incidents 6l
creek, passing small villages, whose inhabitants were terribly alarmed, but none more so than our chief. Poor fellow, he was frightened. How nimbly he ascended his platform on our arrival at his house, where his two wives were crying, but now rejoiced to see him in the body. Long ago the escort had returned with a terrible tale, and they feared whether their husband could have lived through it all. But he was now considered a veritable hero, to be sung in song and shouted in dance. Friends gather round ; he tells his tale ; presents the bird ; the wives examine it, then the crowd of relatives. He afraid ! oh dear no ! But he looked pale for a native, and no quantity of hoop- iron would induce him to move from that platform and the sides of those dear wives that night. Enough for one day, one month, one year, so, * Good-bye, Tamate ; I shall be off in the morning to see you.' Arriving on board late, we were welcome ; they feared we had been spirited away.
The following day we got round to Ellengowan Bay. After visiting all the villages, I went right up to the head of the bay to see Silo and its chief The tide was very low, and after pulling the boat some distance through mud we left her in charge of the two rowers, the mate and I going to the village. He had hoop-iron cut in seven -inch lengths in his pockets. The old chief received us graciously, and began giving me a long story of what he wished to do in the way of pigs and food, if I would only stay two days. It was a sickly-looking hole, and not being quite rid of fever, I hoped to get on board and away in an hour. A large crowd gathered round all under arms, very noisy, and
62 Adventure in New Guinea
certainly not gentle. A slight scuffle took place, but was soon over. The mate missed some of his hoop- iron, caught one young man with a piece, and took it from him. The crowd increased. I told the chief I should prefer his people unarmed, and not so noisy. He spoke to them, some put down their clubs and spears ; but they were hidden in the bush close by. We bade the chief good-bye, but he expressed a great wish to see us in the boat. Apparently with great carelessness we made towards the beach, attended by a noisy crowd, all arms now picked up. Remembering the difficulty we had in landing, and knowing savages preferred killing out of their own villages, hospitality having ended when friends left the precincts, 1 determined not to have that crowd near the boat. I asked the chief to send them back ; but to him they would not listen, and still the noisy crowd followed on. I shouted to them to return, and not come troubling us, as we were getting into the boat. No use ; on they followed, and the boat they meant to visit. I stood still, and not feeling particularly cheerful, I told them to go on, and go off to the vessel — that I should wait and return to the village. Stamping my foot, as if in a towering passion, I told the chief, * Go with all your people to the boat ; as for me, I shall return.' It had the desired effect. The people fled, and the few who remained listened to the old man, and came no further. We got to the boat and away, glad to escape without any unpleasantness.
Entering Orangerie Bay, we anchored off the village of Daunai, from which the whole district takes its name. When here, our Chinese cook lost his knife, and
A Few Trip Incidents 63
spotting the thief, determined to have it; but our captain prevented him from jumping into one of the canoes, and so avoided trouble. There were over one hundred canoes round the vessel, and altogether over four hundred men.
We stopped all trading, and frightened the canoes away by blowing the steam whistle — they were much afraid of it, and kept at a very respectful distance.
We went up the long sheet of water we saw when we crossed Meikle Bay, finding it in every way suited to its native name, Paroai, or piggish water, and quite useless as a harbour for anything larger than an ordinary boat. I went ashore in one of the canoes, to be landed at Bootu, and walk across to Milne Bay. Before leaving the vessel I engaged with the natives to take me right away to the head of the lagoon, and when I had seen Milne Bay, to return me to the vessel, when they would be paid for all their trouble. So with our bags and a few eatables, we started ; when about a mile away from the vessel, they headed the canoe more in towards the right shore, and no amount of talk in calmness or wrath would get them to do otherwise. We touched at a place not far from a village we visited overland — some left us, and we were certainly now too weak to proceed. We ran down to the village, where we landed with my bag, and away went my native canoe men. Love or money would not move the villagers, and they were exceedingly impudent, know- ing well that we were quite in their hands. My friend the mate, who insisted on accompanying me, agreed with me that things were rather out of the common with us, and that a sharp eye, and quick ear, and quick action
64 Adventure in New Guinea
were of some importance. They at once went to get their clubs and spears, and begged and insisted on presents ; but they were astonished, I doubt not, to find their begging of little avail.
* Go to the vessel, if you want presents.' 'Why are you anchored so far off?'
* Can't get nearer, and only wish you would show me the way in close to here.'
Pointing to a passage close in shore, I suggested they had better take us off, and we would try and get her round when the tide rose ; but to this they objected, and instead of becoming more friendly, it seemed to us they were just going the other way ; but that may have been merely as we thought, looking at them through coloured glasses, suspicion, and a certain mixture of doubt if ever we should again see the vessel. A few men came running along the beach. I met them, and hurriedly asked them to take us off, when they would have hoop iron and beads.
' Yes.'
' Quick ! do not let them think ! Into the nearest canoe.'
Away in the distance those in the village were shouting and gesticulating.
* Come back ! Come back, at once.'
* Oh no, my friends ; pull, you must pull ! ' and while they are discussing we are paddling. I tell them it would be dangerous to attempt going back. On we go, beyond small islands in sight of vessel, and now they give up speaking of returning. We got off, and I paid the fellows well. Anxious to get in, we tried in many places at high tide to enter the shore channel, but all
or THE ^
.. or
A Few Trip Incidents 6s
was useless. For several miles we were sailing deep in mud, unable to work the engine. A canoe came near, and I told them to inform those ashore that we could not get in.
At Port Glasgow the people cleared out, bag and baggage, leaving us in quiet possession. At Port Moresby I had heard of a woman's land, a land where only women — perfect Amazons — lived and ruled. These ladies were reported to be excellent tillers of the soil, splendid canoeists in sailing or paddling, and quite able to hold their own against attacks of the sterner sex, who sometimes tried to invade their country. At the East End they knew nothing of this woman's land, and nowhere east of Hula have I ever heard it spoken of.
To find so interesting a community was of great mo- ment, and everywhere we went we inquired, but only to be laughed at by the natives ; sometimes asked by them, ' How do they continue to exist ? ' But that, too, puzzled us. As no part of the coast from East Cape to Port Moresby would be left unvisited by us, we were certain to come across the Amazonian settlement, and when we did, it would be useful to keep a sharp look-out, as I have noticed that the instigators of nearly all quarrels are the women. I have seen at South Cape when the men were inclined to remain quiet, the women rush out, and, as if filled with devils, incite them. Just after the attack on the Mayri, and when I was going about the settlement attending to the wounded, I heard the women call loudly for vengeance, and, because the men would not at once heed them, throw their shields on the ground and batter them with stones, then pull their hair, and tell the men they were only poor weak cowards.
E
66 Adventure in New Guinea
We heard that Mailiukolo (Toulon) canoes with women were more numerous, and some very large ones with women alone. In the early morning we were off the island, and soon ready to land. On crossing the reef we met two canoes, one with men and one with women. We signed to them to go to the vessel, whilst we pulled up to the large village on the north side. As the boat touched the fine hard sandy beach, a man, the only being in sight, ran down and stood in front. I went forward to spring ashore, but he said I must not. Finding he knew the Daunai dialect, I said to him, I must land ; that I was a friend, and gave him my name, which he already knew from the east. I gave him a strip of red cloth and stepped ashore, when he ran away into the bush.
At our first approach I could only see this one man, but now I saw hundreds of grass petticoats on women standing under the houses. I could not see the upper parts of their bodies, only the petticoats and feet. They were indeed quiet until I advanced nearer, when one wild scream was given that would try stronger nerves than mine, and signs to keep away. It required more inquisitiveness than I possessed to proceed. I retired a few paces, warning the boat's crew to keep a good look-out, and especially from the bush end of the village, where the man ran to. I invited the dusky damsels to come to me, if they objected to my visiting them ; but no, I must return whence I came ; they had seen me, that was enough.
' No, my friends ; we must meet, and you will have some presents.'
I held up beads and red cloth ; but, strange to say
A Few Trip Incidents 67
they seemed to have no effect on that strange crowd. I never saw so many women together. How were we to meet ? was now the question ; to be baulked by them would never do. I threw on the beach a piece of red cloth and a few beads ; walked away quite carelessly, and apparently not noticing what was taking place. A girl steals out from the crowd, stops, turns, eyes fixed on me ; advances, stops, crosses her hands, pressing her breast. Poor thing, not courage enough ; so, lightning speed, back. It is evident the old ladies object to the younger ones attempting, and they are themselves too frightened. Another young damsel about nine or ten years old comes out, runs, halts, walks cat-like, lest the touch of her feet on the sand should waken me from my reverie ; another halt, holds her chest, lest the spirit should take its flight or the pattering heart jump right out. I fear it was beyond the slight patter then, and had reached the stentorian thump of serious times. On ; a rush ; well done ! She picks cloth and beads up.
I have gained my point, and will soon have the crowds — no need to wait so long to have the baits picked up now, and, after a few more such temptings, it is done. I am besieged by the noisest crowd I have ever met, and am truly glad to escape on board the boat. We went to the vessel, and brought her round to the west side, where we anchored, and I again landed. Crowds met me on the beach, but no men. I gave my beads indiscriminately, and soon there was a quarrel between the old ladies and young ones. The latter were ordered off, and, because they would not go, I must go. The old ladies insisted on my getting into the boat, and, being now assisted by the few men we met in the
68 Adventure in New Guinea
canoe, I thought it better to comply. Long after we left the beach we heard those old cracked, crabbed voices anathematising the younger members of that community. I suppose I was the first white mortal to land on that sacred shore, and I must have been to them a strange object indeed.
I am fully convinced that this is the Woman's Land, and can easily account for its being called so by stray canoes from the westward.
After leaving the island, we steamed round to the westward of the small islands in Amazon Bay, where we intended to spend a quiet Sabbath after a hard week's work, and previous to beginning another. After anchoring, canoes with men and boys kept crossing from the mainland, and all day Sunday it was the same. They halted at the islands, and with the next tide went on to Toulon. Landing on the Saturday evening to shoot pigeons, we met several natives, and learned that their plantations were on the mainland, and that they crossed to plant and fight, taking their boys with them. Afterwards at Aroma, they told me they left their wives and daughters at home in charge of a few men, whilst the majority crossed to the main, and stayed away for some time, returning with food, to spend a few days at home on the island. During their absence, the women sail about and trade, going as far as Dedele in Cloudy Bay, being one and the same people. Canoes from the westward might have called at Toulon when the men were on the mainland fighting] and planting, and seeing only women, would soon report a woman's land. Many years ago an Elema canoe was carried away there : they were kindly treated by the Amazons, but at
A Few Trip Incidents 69
Dedele on returning, were attacked and several killed ; they naturally reported a woman's land too.
The following week we visited Dedele in Cloudy Bay, which had been visited two years previously, by Messrs. Lawes and Macfarlane. The village was barricaded with high and thick mangrove sticks, with a narrow opening to the sea. They objected to my landing, and formed a crescent in front of the boat. I sprung ashore and asked for the chief I held out a piece of hoop-iron, and a rather short, well-built man, dressed with boar's tusks and other ornaments, stepped forward and took my present. He took me by the hand and led me to the village, just allowing me to peep in at the opening. I could see the women rushing out by an opening at the other side ; pigs, dogs, nets, and other valuables were being carried off; they were rushing off wildly away into the bush. I was very anxious to get right in, and meant to before I went to the boat. My beads were all done up in small parcels, so I could throw them about easily. A poor old woman was sitting under the nearest house, bewailing her sad lot, with an infant, the mother of which had very likely gone off to the bush to hide the valuables and to return for the child, or perhaps she was upstairs packing up. I threw the poor old dame a packet of beads for herself and another for the child. Spying another old lady close by on the opposite side, I threw her one. It had the desired effect ; my friend, the chief, who stood guard at the opening, now conceived the * happy thought ' that some- thing could be made out of me.
'Would you like to walk round and look at the village ? '
70 Adventure in New Guinea
' Yes, I should.'
* Come, then ; ' and, giving me his hand, he led me, attended by an armed crowd, to every house, on the verandahs of which I deposited a packet of beads. He was the chief, and was named Gidage. When going round he said —
' You are no longer Tamate, you are Gidage.'
' Right, my friend ; you are no longer Gidage, you are Tamate.'
I gave him an extra present, and he gave me a return one, saying, * Gidage, we are friends ; stay, and I, Tamate, will kill you a pig.'
' No, Tamate. Gidage must go ; but hopes to re- turn, and will then eat Tamate's pig.'
* No, stay now ; we are friends, and you must be fed!'
* No, I cannot stay ; but when I return, then pig- eating' — not a very pleasant employment when other things can be had.
Pigs are very valuable animals here, and much thought of, and only true friends can be regaled with them. The women nurse the pig. I have seen a woman suckling a child at one breast and a small pig at the other ; that was at South Cape. I have seen it also at Hula and Aroma. Proceeding to the beach, we parted, old and well-known friends.
' Gidage, must you go ? '
* Yes, I cannot now stay, Tamate.'
' Go, Gidage ; how many moons until you return ? '
* Tamate, I cannot say ; but hope to return.' ' Kaione (Good-bye), Tamate.'
' Kaione (Good-bye), Gidage ' ; and away he started,
A Few Trip Incidents 71
leaving Tamate on the beach, surrounded by an inter- esting crowd of natives.
It was near here, a few years after, that a bSche-de-mer party of seven were murdered ; and on the opposite side of the bay two cedar-seekers were waylaid, and lost their lives. We went into Sandbank Bay, and I landed at the village of Domara. What a scene it was! The women rushed into the long grass, and I was led, after a good deal of talk, up to the village — only to see, at the other end, grass petticoats disappearing, the wearers hidden by the quantity of stuff they were carrying. One poor woman, heavily laden with treasures, had perched above all her child, and away she, too, was flying. Never had white man landed there before, and who knows what he may be up to?
The following incident illustrates the shocks a traveller must put up with in New Guinea.
It was resting-day at a village, far away from the coast, and, spreading my chart out on the middle of the floor in the small native house in which we were camping, several sitting round, I was tracing our journey done, and the probable one to do, when strange drops were falling around, a few on the chart. They came from a bulky parcel overhead. Jumping up quickly, I discovered that they were grandmother's remains being dried. Our chart was placed on the fire, and the owner was called lustily, who hurriedly entered, and walked away with the parcel. It was altogether a hurried time, and spoiled our dinner.
Feeling convinced that a suitable locality for the settlement of teachers might be found in the neigh-
72 Adventure in New Guinea
bourhood of Orangerie Bay, I resolved on returning thither, and we anchored at Kuragori, on the east side of Dufaure Island, on April 25, 1879. I went ashore, and found the people delighted to meet me. The chief, Tutuaunei, seems a fine young fellow. The people are good-looking, clear-skinned, and very few suffering from skin disease. They were quite at home with us, and a number accompanied me inland. In strong trade winds, the vessel could lie under the lee of the mainland oppo- site. We got on board, and steamed round to the north side, anchoring off Bonabona.
I went ashore, and was met on the beach by Meaudi, the chief. He is the chief of four villages, some distance from one another, and all a good size. I visited all four. They have good houses, and all looks clean. I saw no mangroves whatever, and no appearance of swamp. The villages are on the beach, and I believe in good healthy positions. We walked from Bonabona to Sigokoiro, followed by a large number of men, women, and children, who were much interested in my boots, clothes, and hat The chief lives in Gokora, and when on the platform in front of his fine large house I gave the present, and we exchanged names. By adopting his name, it meant I was to visit all his very special friends, and give them also presents. I called an old woman sitting by to come to me. Very hesitatingly she came, and stretched forth her arm to receive a present. I asked her to come nearer, which she did, when assured by the chief it was all right, and I put her present of beads round her neck. Then all the people shouted, clapped their hands, and danced with delight. After that, all the old women were pro-
A Few Trip Incidents 73
duced We were well known by report to them, and so Tamate passed as a great taubada (chief).
Dufaure is a fine island, quite equal to any I have seen in the South Pacific — plantations on all sides, right up to the mountain tops. They know nothing of fire- arms, for, on inquiring if there were birds on the island, they asked if I had a sling. The people are a much finer race, and freer than any I have seen further east. The two races seem to meet here — that from the Kerepunu side, and that from the east. We are anchored some distance from the shore in three fathoms, and further out it is shallower. The opposite shore on mainland looks low and unhealthy.
There are ten villages on the island, five of which we have visited.
After visiting the Keakaro and Aroma districts, our journeyings were nearly brought to a sudden termina- tion. When we got half-way between the point next to Macfarlane Harbour and Mailu, where there is a boat entrance, we saw the boat, and waved to them to approach. They came near to the surf, but not near enough for us to get on board. The native of Hula, from Maopa, got on board. The Hula boy got on board early in the day, leaving us to go on alone. I called out to them to proceed to the boat entrance at Mailu. Great numbers of natives were with us ; we saw, in the distance, numbers more sitting on the beach, and armed. Some of those following us were armed. When within two miles of where the boat was to await us, we came upon a crowd of men and women ; the former carried spears, clubs, or pieces of hard wood, used in opening cocoa- nuts ; the women had clubs. Some time before this, I
74 Adventure in New Guinea
said to the teacher and Loyalty Islander, ' Keep a good look out ; I fear there is mischief here.' When we came upon the last group, I asked for a cocoanut in exchange for beads ; the man was giving it to me, when a young man stepped forward and sent him back. We hastened our steps, so as to get to the village, where the strangers from Mailukolo and Kapumari might help us. The teacher heard them discussing as to the best place for the attack ; and, not knowing that he knew what they said, he heard much that left no doubt in our minds that murder was meant. I carried a satchel, which had beads and hoop-iron in it ; they tried to get it. I gave presents of beads ; some were indignantly re- turned. I was in front, between two men with clubs, who kept telling me I was a bad man. I held their hands, and kept them so that they could not use their clubs. The Loyalty Islander had a fowling- piece — thinking we might be away some days, and we might have to shoot our dinners. They tried hard to get him to fire it off, and twice tried to wrest it from him. They knew what guns are, and with reason. They tried to trip us ; they jostled us. On we went.
Two men, when near the village, came close up behind me with large wooden clubs, which were taken from them by two women, who ran off to the village. Things looked black, and each of us prayed in silence to Him who rules over the heathen. Soon a man came rushing along, seized the club, and took it from the man on my left, and threw it in the sea. He tried to do the same with the one on my right ; but he was too light a man, and did not succeed. An old woman, when at the
A Few Trip Incidents 75
point, came out and asked them what they meant, and followed us, talking to them all the way, so dividing their thoughts. An old chief, whom we saw on our way up, came hurriedly along to meet us, calling out, * Mine is the peace ! What have these foreigners done that you want to kill them?' He closed up to the teacher, and took him by the hand. Another chief walked close behind me. They began to talk loudly amongst themselves. Some were finding fault that we should have been allowed to get near the village, and others that there was yet time. The boat was anchored some distance off: we got her nearer; and, when ready to move off to the boat, I opened my satchel, gave hoop-iron to our friends the chiefs, and threw beads amongst the crowd. I shouted for Kapumari, and a sturdy young fellow fought his way through the crowd. I gave him a piece of hoop-iron, and, with our friendly chiefs, he forced the crowd back, calling on us to be quick and follow. So into the water we got, the chiefs calling, ' Go quick ; go quick ! ' We got on board ; our China- men got flustered,' and very nearly let the boat drift broadside on the beach ; we, with poles and oars, got her round and off, sails set, and away for Kerepunu. Before changing clothes, we thanked God our Father for His protection and care over us. We felt He alone did all ; unsettled their thoughts as to who first, where, and when ; and it was He who gave us friends.
Why should they want to kill us? It was surely never for the small satchel I carried. I believe it was revenge. Some years ago, a vessel called off Aroma ; trading for food was done on board ; thieving went on ; food was sold twice ; revolvers and rifles were brought
76 Adventure in New Guinea
out ; the natives were fired on, several were wounded, and very likely some were killed. Natives on the beach were fired upon, and some were wounded who were hiding in the bush close by. We land — the first foreigners to visit them — and on us they will be revenged. What a pity that the same foreigners who fire on the natives do not return the following week, and so receive their deserts ! The wretches steer clear of such parts. I have asked the teacher to find out, if possible, why Aroma wished to kill Tamate and Taria.
When in the boat, we asked the Hula boy why he left us and took to the boat. He said he had heard some say we should be killed, and that we would make a fine feast. He did not tell us, because he had not an opportunity, and was afraid the people might hear him if he told, and so he would be killed.
A week later a chief from Maopa came with a Kerepunu chief to see me. I recognised him as the one who kept back the crowd the other day at Aroma, and opened the way for me to get into the water, and so into the boat. He says, from our landing in the morning they had determined to kill us, but the suitable time did not arrive. When we arrived at the place where the large canoes from Toulon and Daunai were lying, it was there arranged by the Aroma people and those from the canoes that Aroma should kill us and have all they could get, and those from the canoes should have the bodies to eat. He says they kept putting it off, until, finally, it was to be done when we were at the boat, then they would have boat and all ; but he and two other chiefs arrived just in time. He
^
A Few Trip Incidents 77
says it was not revenge, and, turning to the Kerepunu chief, he said, ' You know Aroma from of old, and how all strangers are killed.' I gave him a present, and told him that I hoped to see him soon.
The inhabitants of the inland villages are probably the aborigines, who have been driven back to the hills by the robuster race now occupying their plantations on the coast. Their habits and customs are curious and interesting. They cook the heads of their slain enemies, to secure clean skulls to put on sacred places.
They have one great spirit — Palaku Bara, who dwells in the mountains. They worship him unitedly in one place. Each family has a sacred place, where they carry offerings to the spirits of deceased ancestors, whom they terribly fear. Sickness in the family, death, family, scarcity of fish, &c. — these terrible spirits are at work, and must be propitiated.
Pigs are killed only in the one place, and then they are offered to the spirit. The blood is poured out there, and the carcase is then carried back to the village, to be divided, cooked, and eaten.
Pigs' skulls are kept and hung up in the house. Food for a feast, such as at house-building, is placed near the post where the skulls hang, and a prayer is said. When the centre post is put up, the spirits have wallaby, fish, and bananas presented to them, and they are besought to keep that house always full of food, and that it may not fall when the wind is strong.
The great spirit causes food to grow, and to him presentations of food are made.
Spirits, when they leave the body, take a canoe, cross the lagoon, and depart to the mountains, where
78 Adventure in New Guinea
they remain in perfect bliss ; no work, and nothing to trouble them, with plenty of betel-nuts. They dance all night long, and rest all day.
When the natives begin planting, they first take a bunch of bananas and sugar-cane, and go to the centre of the plantation, and call over the names of the dead belonging to their family, adding, 'There is your food, your bananas and sugar-cane ; let our food grow well, and let it be plentiful. If it does not grow well and plentiful, you all will be full of shame, and so shall we.'
When they go on trading expeditions, they present their food to the spirits at the centre post of the house, and ask the spirits to go before them and prepare the people, so that the trading may be prosperous.
No great work and no expedition is undertaken without offerings and prayer.
When sickness is in the family, a pig is brought to the sacred place of the great spirit, and killed. The carcase is then taken to the sacred place of the family, and the spirits are asked to accept it. Sins are con- fessed, such as bananas that are taken, or cocoanuts, and none have been presented, and leave not given to eat them. * There is a pig ; accept, and remove the sick- ness.' Death follows, and the day of burial arrives. The friends all stand round the open grave, and the chief's sister or cousin calls out in a loud voice, * You have been angry with us for the bananas we have taken (or cocoanuts, as the case may be), and you have, in your anger, taken this child. Now let it suffice, and bury your anger.' The body is then placed in the grave, and covered over with earth.
CHAPTER III
SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE
Journey inland from Port Moresby — Evening with a chief — Savage life — Tree-houses — Uakinumu — Inland natives — Native habits of eating — Mountain scenery — Upland natives — Return to Ua- kinumu— Drinking out of a bamboo — Native conversation — Keninumu — Munikahila — Native spiritists — Habits and influ- ence of these men — Meroka — Kerianumu — Makapili — The Laroki Falls — Epakari — Return to Port Moresby.
In 1879 I made a long journey inland, in a north- easterly direction from Port Moresby. I visited many native villages, and explored the mountainous country along the course of and between the Goldie and Laroki rivers.
The reader will get some notion of the country, the natives, and their customs, from the following extracts taken from a journal kept at that time.
July 15, 1879. — We left Port Moresby at half-past
seven, reaching the Laroki at half-past eleven. We
crossed in shallow water near to where the Goldie
joins the Laroki. We had eighteen carriers, four of
them women, who carried more than the men. After
resting awhile at the Laroki we went on about three
miles further to Moumiri, the first village of the Koiari
tribe of Port Moresby. On entering the village we 79
8o Adventure in New Guinea
took them by surprise ; the women shouted and the men rushed to their spears. We called out, Mai^ mat, mat (Peace, peace, peace), and, on recognising who we were, they came running towards us with both hands outspread. We met the chiefs wife, and she led us up the hill, where there are a number of good native houses. It was shouted on before us that foreigners and Ruatoka had arrived, and down the hill the youths came rushing, shaking hands, shout- ing, and slapping themselves. We were received by the chief under the house, and there we had to sit for a very long time until his wife returned from the plantation with sugar-cane. Our carriers chewed large quantities of sugar-cane, got a few betel-nuts, and then set off on the return journey. We are now north-east from Port Moresby, thirteen miles, 360 feet above sea-level, the thermometer in shade 84°. The people are small, women not good - looking, and children ill -shaped. The Goldie runs at the base of the hill; the natives get water from it. The houses are very similar to those inland from Kere- punu. On the door hangs a bunch of nutshells, so that when the door is shut or opened they make a noise. Should the occupants of the house be asleep, and their foes come, they would, on the door being opened, be wakened up. Spears and clubs are all handy.
i6th. — Ruatoka, Joe (an African), and I started at half-past ten for Munikahila, where we hope to get carriers, our Moumiri friends objecting to go. The first village we came to we found deserted, and in one old house the skeleton of a child. We crossed to another village, and coming suddenly upon the few
Sketches of Papuan Life 8i
who were at home, they were terribly frightened ; one woman danced up and down the village, and shouted to the people in the neighbouring villages to come at once. We are 1170 feet above sea-level at a village called Keninumu. The people soon gathered round, some with spears, clubs, and shields, others unarmed. Feeling cold after the climb, I signed to be allowed to go into a house to change clothing, and was given to understand that a very good place to do it was on the verandah in front of the house, and before the assembly. When the chief, Poroko Butoa, arrived, we were assigned a small house : a man during the evening came rushing along with one piece of sugar - cane and calling out for a tomahawk. A tomahawk for a piece of sugar-cane would be throwing money to the winds. We are E.N.E. from Moumiri.
lyth. — Rather cold during the night. Five natives who slept in the house with us kept a fire burning all night. A child sitting in front of the house has a taro in one hand, a bamboo pipe in the other ; takes a bite of the taro, then a draw from the charged pipe, and the mixture seems to be thoroughly relished. Feeling sure we should get carriers here, we took no supplies with us, so are now eating the best we can get, doing Banting to perfection. A number of men have been sitting all day about the house making spears, the jawbone and tusks of the wild boar being the only implements.
I'^th, — Thermometer at sunrise 70°. A number of ugly painted and feathered fellows came in this morn- ing on their way to the village in the valley. The
F
82 Adventure in New Guinea
people here are much darker than the coast tribes, and their hair is woolly. Joe said on arriving here, ' Hallo, these people same as mine, hair just the same.' They are scarcely so dark. A few are bright-coloured, but all have the woolly hair. A goodly number suffer from sores on feet and other parts of body. Their one want is a tomahawk. The people seem to live in families. We had a good supper of taro and cockatoo, the latter rather tough.
igth. — The carriers have not yet arrived. In the evening a woman shouted and yelled ; all rushed to their spears, and there was great running, snorting, and blowing at some imaginary enemy. After the chief came in we lay about the fire for some time ; then to our blankets. I was beginning to nod, when some women in a neighbouring house began giggling and laughing. Our friend wakened up and began talking. I told him to sleep; he answered, Kuku mahuta (Smoke, then sleep). He had his smoke, and then began reciting. I remember, as a youth, being told, when I could not sleep, to repeat a psalm or para- phrase, or count lOO to myself, and I should soon drop off. This fellow repeated aloud, and he must have been going over the mythologic lore of his family for very many generations, and yet he did not sleep. At last a smoke, beginning with a scream of kuku. Now surely sleep ; but no, he changed to a low monotonous chant, so grating on the sleepy man's nervous system that it would have driven many desperate. At last, in the morning hours, the notes became indistinct, long pauses were observed, and, finally, I fell asleep.
Sketches of Papuan Life 83
The women carry exceedingly heavy loads up these steep hills. Yesterday one woman had two large kits of taro, and a child of about two years on the top of all. Ruatoka shot eight blue pigeons and one bird of paradise to-day : the latter must be eaten with the best of all sauces — hunger. The natives pick up heads, legs, and entrails, turn them on the fire and eat them.
2Qth. — Yesterday evening, about six, the carriers came in with great shouting, and glad was I to see my lad and companion Maka then. Great was the joy at the division of salt and tobacco. Before we came here the women and children slept in the bush at night, the men in the village. They are at enmity with the natives on the flat across the ravine, and it seems that sometimes they get a night visit, and may lose a man. For the last two nights the women have been in the village, but every sound heard causes a shout. Last night, when just getting off, they came rushing up to our house, and calling on us to get up with our guns, as their enemies were coming. ' Only fire off one, and it will frighten them away.' We told them to go and sleep, and not be afraid.
The state of fear of one another in which the savage lives is truly pitiful ; to him every stranger seeks his life, and so does every other savage. The falling of a dry leaf at night, the tread of a pig, or the passage of a bird all rouse him, and he trembles with fear.
How they relish salt ! The smallest grain is picked carefully up. Fortunately we have a good deal of that commodity. Never have I seen salt-eating like this ; only children eating sugar corresponds to it.
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Here as in all other parts of New Guinea — it is not the most powerful man who fights and kills most, but little abominable sneaks, treacherous in the extreme. Since our arrival here we find the thermometer from 82° to 84° during the day, and as low as 68°, more frequently 70°, during the night. By bearings we are only about twenty miles in straight course from Port Moresby.
2 1 St. — The village is built on the ridge, the chief's house right on the high end and looking east, our small house close by on the side of the others, on each side leaving a pathway in the centre. At the very end of the ridge is a house on a very high tree, used as a look-out house and a refuge for women and children in case of attack. There are quite a number of tree-houses in the various villages on the ridges seen from here. The people are anxious to get Maka, a light-coloured and very fine-looking native lad, married to one of their girls and settled down amongst them. I said to our African, 'They want Maka to marry one of their girls.' Joe, I suppose, felt slighted that he too had not an offer, and he replied, 'Well, sir, in Mada- gascar, a very big chief was real anxious I marry his daughter ; fine-looking girl ; he make me chief, and give me plenty land ; far cleaner people than them be.'
I find the people have the same sign of friendship as in the east end of New Guinea — nose and stomach pointed to. They speak of a land, Daui, with which they are friendly, a very long way off. Daunai, of Orangerie Bay, is called Daui in some places. To their tree-houses they have ladders with long vines on each side to assist ascent. Our delay here will help
Sketches of Papuan Life 8$
us to know the people. I have just been showing them the likenesses of two young friends, and the excitement has been great, men, women, and children crowding round, thumbs in mouth, scratching and shaking heads and leaping and screaming, coming again and again to have a look.
22nd. — A number of strangers slept, or rather made a noise all night in houses close by, and amongst them a spiritist, whose hideous singing and chanting of reve- lations was enough to drive one frantic. We tried to quiet him, but it was of no use — silenced he would not be. A man sitting by us when having morning tea asked for some of the salt we were using. We told him it was not salt, but sugar. He insisted it was salt, and we gave him some on his taro. He began eating, and the look of disgust on his face was worth seeing; he rose up, went out, spat out what he had in his mouth, and threw the remainder away.
2ird. — Cannot get the natives to move; they say they are tired, and will have to rest until to-morrow morning, and they are also afraid of their enemies. The excitement is great, but what it all means is difficult for us to say. Noon : all have cleared out with spears, clubs, and shields, two men having been killed in a village near, and they have gone to get hold of the murderers if they can. Dressed in their feathers and fighting gear, with faces streaked, they do certainly look ugly. After being some time gone they returned, saying the enemy, who were from Eikiri, had gone off to the back mountains.
2Zth. — Left this morning, and had to carry our things, no natives accompanying us. When about
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four miles on we met natives who willingly took our bags and accompanied us to Uakinumu. The travel- ling was not so bad — a good deal of descending and ascending. Oriope, the old chief, was delighted to see us. His wives and children have gone with great burdens of betel-nuts and taro to trade at the sea-side. The old fellow goes with us. We are now 1530 feet above sea-level, east-by-south from last camp — Mount Owen Stanley due north. Oriope is Mr. Lawes' great friend. He used to live in Munikahila, but trouble through marrying a wife has sent him in here. He seems greatly attached to Ruatoka. He is a terrible talker, long-winded and deafening.
■'■' 2gfk — We had a strange sort of hut for sleeping quarters on the top of a rock. The house, being open all round, felt exceedingly cold when the fire went down. The people here seem much lighter than at the other place, and the children have a more pleasant expression. Basaltic rocks lie scattered about in every direction. We had our flag flying, and the admiration was great, the natives viewing it from underneath, then from a distance, and in each position noticing some- thing new. About half-past eleven we left. The old chief and four carriers went with us. After crossing the head of the Munikahila Creek we passed through fine thickly-wooded country, that may yet become a very extensive coflee country. After travelling for some hours we camped 1800 feet above sea-level. On the way the carriers struck and were for going back, but we insisted on their going on a little further. Strange formation of country all around here. This ridge seems alone in a large basin, one side of which
Sketches of Papuan Life 87
is bare perpendicular rock. There is a good quantity of cedar, but so difficult to get away that it would never pay to work. We are north-east from Uakinumu.
lOth. — We started late, continued our journey along the ridge, rising gradually to 2250 feet, and then along a fine level country for some miles, when we began to descend. Soon our old friend began shouting, and re- ceived an answer from a village a very long way off. Close by us was a very steep descent, down which we went till we came under the shadow of a great rock, where we rested, and in about an hour up came ten natives unarmed, touched our chins and we theirs, then all squatted to smoke. One of them, some time ago, had been to the coast, and knew Rua ; his joy at now seeing him in here was great. A shot had been fired at a cockatoo before they heard the shouting, and they were much afraid. When all seemed satisfied, and the crust of the news broken, I proposed a start, so up bundles and away we went. When having gone about two miles there was a halt in an open space, and we were given to understand we must camp there. I could not agree to it, ' We must go on to the village.' * No, you must stay here.'
* We cannot ; we must go on.'
* If you go on you will be devoured by the boroma badabaha (great pig).'
I insisted upon going on ; they called to those in the village, and on being answered we again went on for about half-a-mile, when every bundle was put down and a halt called, and again we had to listen to the un- intelligible story of the wild animal or animals that would destroy us. We sat down and tried to get them
88 Adventure in New Guinea
to see as we did, that a house was necessary for our comfort. A thunderstorm was working up, and soon the rain would be down on us — let us be off for the village. They had a long confab with those in the village on the ridge, which, when ended, seemed favourable ; and so up the steep side of the ridge we went. When halfway up they halted, and wanted us to camp under the shelter of a [great rock. Seeing some young men with bundles rounding the rock, I joined myself to them, and away we went, followed by the others to the village. Under the first house in the village sat a man with a large pig standing by him, which he was clapping and scratching, as if to keep it quiet ; and as we went along we saw great pigs under the houses. Certainly they were savage-looking pigs. We were given an open house, and the rain was coming on. I was ascending, when it became necessary to spring from a pig that was after me. Is this Goldie's big beast the natives told him of? This is a fine country. We passed through large plantations of yams, taro, sugar-cane, and bananas. During the evening we had crowds of men and lads — no women or children — to see us. Some are quite light copper-coloured, others are very dark ; nearly all are dressed with cassowary feathers ; many with ruffs round their necks made from these feathers. There are none very tall, but all seem well-built men with good muscle. They have the same calabashes and chunam sticks for betel-chewing as at Kerepunu. Some chunam sticks made from cassowary bones are very well carved. They are a very noisy lot ; one would think they were trying to see who could speak the loudest. They tell us it is impossible to cross
Sketches of Papuan Life 89
to the other side, as further inland the ridge ends — and there is nothing but bare broken rock — inaccessible all round. The majority of the men are bearded and moustached, and have cassowary feathers like a pad behind, on which they sit. They dress with a string. The demand for salt is very great ; grains are picked up, and friends are supplied with a few grains from what they have got for taro. The name of the place is Kenakagara, 1810 feet above the sea-level, E.N.E. from Uakinumu.
3 1st. — Great crowds of people keep going and coming. We spent a miserable night. Our old chief, Oriope, had a conclave round the fire, and it took him all night to recount the doings of the Naos (foreigners), not forgetting the toilet. At times he waxed eloquent, and the whole gully rung again. It was useless telling him to be quiet. All men and lads have the nose and ears pierced. A number of women and children are about. Some of the women are fine, tall, muscular, and clear- skinned, as light-coloured as Eastern Polynesians. The children are lithe, blithe, and hearty — some very dark and some very light. The women have brought large quantities of taro for salt. Oriope is very sleepy, and I have every now and again to waken him up, so that to-night he may sleep soundly, and not prevent our sleeping.
My name here is Oieva — that of the fine-looking old father of the village. At present I am all alone, the others being out after birds. The natives are very friendly. They relish salt and ginger, which I have tried them with, and which they pronounce good. Ruatoka and Maka have returned ; they shot a pig.
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which the natives who accompanied them cooked and divided, to be carried in. The excitement is great over the division, and the whole assembly are shouting ; those from the hunt recounting the day's proceedings, acting the shooting of the pig, to the intense delight and amazement of the others. They eat flesh nearly raw. A pig is put on the fire until the hair is well singed off; then division is made, then re-divided, and eaten. They take a piece between the teeth, hold with one hand, and with a bamboo knife cut close to the mouth. A bird is turned on the fire a few times, then cut up and eaten.
August \st. — Left this morning to look for a track. We passed through a fine large village about one mile from here, and were joined by sixty men, all armed with spears and clubs, and faces painted. They accompanied us for about four miles, and then turned away to the south. We continued the ridge for some miles further, until we could see that all round were great inaccessible mountains with bare faces. It begins with the Astrolabe, extending west until Vetura is reached, and then away east by south until the centre of the range is reached. In some places it has a perpendicular rock face of many hundred feet; in other places it is broken rock with bush growth, and only at very long distances can tracks be found, and even then it is difficult to get up. We descended to the river, a large one, flowing west, through great rocks, often lost, sometimes only pools appearing here and there until, some distance down, and when 800 feet above sea-level, it comes out a fine flowing river. We had a good bath, and, of course, the inevit- able kuku^ and then skirted the side of the ridge
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passing close by and under great rocks and over-hang- ing cliffs, and up a most extraordinary steep path into splendid sugar-cane and taro plantations. Weary, we sat down and ate sugar-cane under the shade of a great rock. This West Indian 'long breakfast' goes well when thirsty and hungry. The natives who accom- panied us, having caught a large rat and a frog, turned them on the fire and ate them.
A truly wonderful country ! What terrible convul- sions of Nature there must have been here, ere these great boulders were displaced and rolled about like mere pebbles ! The villages are so built that they are accessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks. We saw no game of any kind, yet the cassowary must abound somewhere near, as every one of the natives wears great head-dresses and neck-ruffs made from the feathers. Our highest ascent to-day was to 2360 feet above sea-level ; we call it Mount Bellamy ; it stands out alone, and from it we saw the Astrolabe, Vetura, and Munikahila.
2nd, — We left this morning for a pig and cassowary hunt, but were unsuccessful. We bagged four cockatoos, one green parrot, one brueros, and three pigeons. Of my travelling in this land, to-day beats all ; it was along mere goat tracks on the edge of frightful preci- pices, down precipitous mountain-sides and up steep ridges, on hands and knees at times, hanging on to roots and vines, and glad when a tree offered a little rest and support. I gave it up at last, hungry and weary, and let the others proceed. I stayed with a large party of natives who were getting a kind of large almond with a very thick fleshy rind, the nut inside very hard, which
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they broke open with stones, filling their kits with the kernels. They call the nut okari. They fed me with sugar-cane, taro, and okari^ and then got leaves for me to rest on. They had all their arms handy ; I was, as I am always, unarmed, and felt thoroughly comfortable with them. Only once in New Guinea have I carried a weapon, and then we had spears thrown at us. I consider a man safer without than with arms. The return * home ' was frightfully steep and trying to wearied and hungry folks.
;\ ^rd. — Youths busy with feathers of cockatoos got yesterday, making head-dresses. They take the feather, strip it down, throw the quill away, fasten all the stripped feathers neatly together, dry in sun, then bind round their combs. One youth is preparing a head- covering from the bark of the mulberry : he is making native cloth by chewing the bark, and no wonder he complains of his jaws being sore, for it is a long job. I gave the children presents of beads this morning, and some of the old gentlemen objected, saying they ought to have had them ; but I did not understand them. It is very convenient at times not to understand what is said — it is thoroughly native. We have been asking them if they will receive teachers, and they all say yes, and at once, for it means tomahawks, knives, and salt. They say, * To-morrow we'll all go and get the two teachers at Munikahila and bring them here now.'
We here are in excellent health and spirits ; a little disappointed at not being able to cross. Certainly we have not lived on the best, and we have camped any- where. I like these mountaineers — free, independent,
Sketches of Papuan Life 93
and kind. When they cook taro, if near, we get a hot taro to eat, and often they bring hot taro to the house. They bring their presents of taro and sugar- cane and at once walk away. They have very good houses, thatched with grass, some with a verandah on two sides, and all built six feet and more from the ground. When we were away yesterday, a wild boar from the bush took possession of the village. Often when the natives are in the bush they have to seek refuge in climbing trees from the savage tuskers, especially if they have been speared and are deter- mined to fight. Our flag is flying, to signify that it is * resting day.'
The natives very seldom bury their dead, leaving the body in a house set apart for it, which they often visit. When a number of deaths take place, they leave the village and settle somewhere else not far off. There is one grave here, near to our house, on which a tobacco plant is growing, a bamboo pipe, the property of the deceased, alongside, and a few sticks on end with yams on top. When they do bury, the body is placed standing in the grave.
4/^. — We left Kenakagara this morning, accompanied by natives. Our friends soon left us, and we lost our way, and after some hours' travelling found ourselves in a thick bush and surrounded by precipices. It has been up hill and down dale with a vengeance, trying hard to get to the south-west. At last, wet through and thoroughly tired, we camped to have breakfast, dinner, and supper in one. We were ten hours on the tramp, and carrying our bags, so feel ready for a night's rest.
^th. — We see where we are ; but how to get out is the
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problem to be solved. Ruatoka has gone to look for a track. We had a fine night, a roaring fire at our feet, and so enjoyed sleep. Camping this way is preferable to living in native huts, far more comfortable and enjoyable ; but for our work it is better for us to be with the natives. Uakinumu bears south-west by west from us now, and could be reached in a few hours, if only we could get down the precipice. Rua has returned. When some distance off he heard cooeying, and responded, when our old friend, who had been looking for us in a great state of fear, shouted his name. Rua told him to follow, and he did so, arriving at the camp soon after. He was so excited he could not speak, but embraced us all round and then sat down.
After breakfast we set off, each carrying a bundle. The travelling was difficult, until we arrived on the path leading to the creek and up to Uakinumu. When on the spur, the old man shouted for the youths to come and help us ; they cooed back, and we hoped to see them in about an hour, or at the most two hours ; after waiting and no one coming, we descended, and when at the creek met a youth coming slowly along and saying others were following. I felt sure they delayed their coming to meet us until we should be near the village, where they would take the bags and receive tobacco and salt ; but they were sold ; we trudged on, and would not let them have a bag. We took no notice of those we met, and to their solicitations asking to carry bags we turned a deaf ear. The chiefs eldest son came along and begged to have my bag. No, on no condition. The poor old chief was in a sad state ; but as we are likely to require their services some future day, it is
Sketches of Papuan Life 95
necessary to teach them that for work or service they will be paid, but for skulking, and hoping to get tobacco and salt, their hopes are futile. We reached the village, and Oriope did all he possibly could to keep us. No, on we will go ; his sleepy boys may sleep on. We gave him and his little grandchild who accompanied him presents, bade him good-bye, and away.
6th. — Here, and in all the villages we have been, we have seen very few women and girls, and very few of the young men seem to be married. Do they kill the girls when born ?
'jth. — Left this morning for a mountain close by, hoping to see the windings of the Laroki from it. We had to descend looo feet, and then ascend 1800. From the droppings about, I should say the cassowary and pig abound in the gullies about this mountain. We found on the top a deserted village and five cocoanut-trees. We could make nothing of the Laroki, because of thick bush on top. We saw that the Munikahila creek flows west and south, until, due north of this, it turns sharp and flows north by east and falls into the Goldie. We reached camp with thoroughly whetted appetites, and enjoyed breakfast and dinner of pigeons and taro. We call the mountain Mount Elsie. It is north of Vetura, and west and south of Keninumu. We have seen four new villages close to one another where a teacher could work well. We have now five positions for teachers, and I hope before we have finished with this inland trip to have thirty, giving four and five villages to each teacher. In crossing one of the spurs a native and his son brought us bananas, and water in a bamboo. It is difficult to drink out of a bamboo. Place the open end
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to the mouth, raise gradually, look out, here it comes — steady. Ah, too much raised ; it is a deluge streaming over you and nearly choking you. Try again — well, a little better, yet far from perfect. Choking, are you ? Never mind, practise, and you will soon be an expert — a native in drinking truly. The natives have been having a feast. They began with boiled bananas and finished with a large snake cooked in pots. It was cut up and divided out amongst all — sixteen eggs were found in her, a little larger than a good-sized fowl's egg. They seemed to relish it much, and the gravy was much thought of They say pig is nothing compared to snake. Ah, well, tastes differ.
gt/i. — We had a few noisy strangers in the village, and they seemed to be anxious that all they had to say should be heard in every house. The conversation is kept up by the inmates of the various houses, and at times all are speaking and trying to drown one another. A lull comes, and you fancy the turmoil is ended, and so roll on your side for a sleep ; but, alas, it was only drawing breath, the noise being perhaps worse than before. Our chief and his wife had a quarrel over something or other last evening. Of course the woman had the best of it. Strange, she said very little, but that little seemed to be to the point. Every now and again he would shout, Pirikava ! pirikava ! pirikava ! (Dear me ! dear me ! dear me !), and then scream and rage. The wife would then laugh at him, which made him worse, screaming and dancing more than ever. She would then say something, which he would answer, and so quieted him down a little. All have gone hunting to-day — men, women, and children, pigs
Sketches of Papuan Life 97
and dogs. Before leaving, they told us if we saw any one sneaking about, we were to be sure to shoot them ; but if they came up openly to us, and pointed to the nose and stomach, they were friends, and had come for salt and tobacco. We get our water in canvas bags, and teachers or missionaries coming inland will require a set of water-bags made from the very best canvas.
wth. — A number of natives have gone to Port Moresby to help Rua and Maka with tomahawks, salt, &c. After they left we went to the bush, and cut down a number of trees for posts for a house. The chief, Poroko, has given us land, at an elevation of 1 260 feet ; splendid view all round ; and if not healthy, I know not where to go, unless it be to the top of Mount Owen Stanley. There will be plenty of room for taro, sugar- cane, and coffee plantations. A woman often passes us with a frightful load of taro and sugar-cane on her back, and on the top of all an infant in a net basket. She goes to the next house, swings the infant kit off first, placing it on the ground, where the infant in it kicks and rolls, but cannot get out until the kits of taro and sugar-cane are safely housed.
14//^. — This morning, after an early breakfast, we started with the Port Moresby natives for Munikahila, they being anxious to secure a supply of betel-nuts to return with. Have promised our old friend Oriope of Uakinumu, before we started on the Eikiri trip, that if he led us across and gave us bearers, all should have tomahawks, knives, &c. He did not carry out his part, and the bearers from him returned, leaving us inland. I was anxious to pay them for what they did,
G
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so we went on there with tomahawks, tobacco, and salt. We were about two miles from the village, when we shouted, and were replied to, and soon four young fellows came rushing along, in a great state of perspira- tion, and very excited, rubbing our chins and throwing their arms around us, highly delighted that we had returned. They were not going to serve us as they did the last time. We reached the village, and were seated with strangers and surrounded by old friends, when Oriope, who had been on his plantation, came along to where we were, nearly breathless, and streaming with perspiration ; he threw his arms around me, embraced me, rubbing his dirty moist cheeks on mine, sitting down and not speaking for some time. When he began, he said he was afraid we were terribly offended and would not return ; but, having returned to him, we must stay. No, we cannot ; we must return to Keninumu that night. Ah, he could manage it ; he would have us tied, and so detain us. Four coast natives who knew the Koiari language were with us. We told our old friend we wanted a large quantity of betel-nuts, and that he had better set out at once for them. Soon the women and lads were off. We then removed to our old house on the rock, and there told him, through the interpreter, what we had expected of him, and that he had not done it, but that having told him we should pay them, we had come now to do so for the journey made. We gave our tomahawks, tobacco, and salt, and the old man was truly delighted, saying, ' I and my people will take you wherever we may go with safety.' He does not go to sea on the other side, as Mr. Lawes supposed, and says it is impossible to cross over unless we go up by Yule
Sketches of Papuan Life 99
Island, and there he says it is dangerous because of the cannibals. In returning, I saw, for the first time in New Guinea, a bush of the real South Sea Island kava {Piper methysticum).
lytk. — We have just had a service, and through Kena we have told the natives the object of our coming and staying, that they might know of the true God, and of Jesus Christ the Saviour. It was interesting to mark the different expressions on their faces as they heard for the first time of God — the God of love, and that as His servants we were here. When told of the resurrection they looked at one another ; some laughed, others seemed serious. They were very particular in their inquiries as to the name of the Great Spirit, and of His Son — forgetting, and returning to hear it again.
iZth. — Here we are at Uakinumu for another trip; but alas, alas ! cannot get carriers. The young men are all off wallaby-hunting, so we must start. This evening a woman came in with several bamboos of grubs, which were cooked in the bamboos, then spread on leaves ; some salt was dissolved in the mouth and squirted over all, and it was amusing to see the gusto with which men, women, and children partook. Oriope is very persistent in wanting a teacher. He was greatly delighted when I gave him a large knife ; he examined it all over, then pressed it with tender affection to his bosom. Fearing lest some friends who are with him at present might ask it from him, he returned it to me, requesting me to keep it until they left.
20th. — Last night, after turning -in, I heard a peculiar noise as of some one in great distress, then
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loud speaking in a falsetto voice, and knew then what was up — we had a spiritist in the village, and revelations were now about to be made. We were all named, and the places we were to visit. I felt somewhat anxious as to the revelation, for if it should be the least doubtful as to our going, no native would stir with us. However, the revelation, on being inter- preted to us by Kena, was all right ; we were good men, and kind, and the villages would all willingly receive us. The spirit dilated at length on the good qualities of foreign tobacco and the badness of the native stuff, and wound up by asking for some foreign. Oriope at once got up and gave from his own stock what was wanted. These native spiritists are terrible nuisances ; they get whatever they ask, and the natives believing so thoroughly in them, they have the power of upsetting all arrangements and causing serious trouble. This morning I found our spirit friend to be a man who sat in our house all day yesterday, a stranger from an inland village. He has quite a different look from the other natives — an anxious, melancholy expression. While at morning coffee he came and sat down along- side of us all right, and we learned from him that the spirit of a deceased friend comes into him, and then things are revealed, the spirit speaking through him. He says, when we were at Eikiri, a few weeks ago, he knew it, and told the people of his village of it.
The wallaby-hunters are to come in this afternoon with great supplies. When sitting round the fire with our old chief, we asked him if he knew of any tailed folks about inland. ' Oh dear, yes.' And then he gave us a perfect and laughable description of what
Sketches of Papuan Life loi
must be some creature of the monkey tribe. It climbs, laughs, and talks a peculiar language of its own ; it scratches the head, slaps the thigh, and sits down to eat like a man. I then said, ' But they are not really men ? ' * Well, not exactly, but very near it ; they are hairy all over, and some are perfectly black.' The tail, according to his description, must be about a fathom long. We are to see them, and must, he says, secure one or two, dead or alive. Our spirit is out in his prognostications, the wallaby-hunters have not returned, and we cannot leave to-morrow.
2ist — Our spirit friend is quite out as yet, for here we are nursing Patience, and trying to make her a dear friend. We are promised a start to-morrow. In the evening the hunters came in with large supplies of wallaby. They report innumerable horses and foreigners as having gone to Kupele ; we suppose it to be Goldie's party. From to-day's shooting, the old man got a green parrot, and devoured it raw. Oriope dressed himself in his fighting gear, and went through a few antics; he looked a perfect fiend. He is very proud of a stone club he possesses with a piece broken off; he says it was broken in felling a tremendous fellow in a neighbouring village. He killed him. * What, stand before me ! '
22nd. — I was eating a banana this morning, when I was told not to throw the skin away, but hand it to them, which I did, when it was passed round and kissed by all with short ejaculations. I asked what it meant, and was told it was their manner of thanking the spirits for ripe bananas. We started at eight A.M. with eight carriers and our old friend, and twenty
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inland natives returning home with wallaby ; one poor woman had two large kits on her back, and an infant in another, hanging in front of her. We were seven hours on the tramp, along a good path, on which horses could get along well. The most difficult ascent was shortly after we left Uakinumu ; but the path was good. The last hour of travelling was in a thunder- storm, with a regular tropical pour of rain. When we neared the village Marivaeanumu, the men came rushing out with their spears and shields, thinking it was an attacking party ; but on seeing Maka, who was just behind the first native, and I following up, they shouted out, Nao, nao ! (Foreigners), and ran back with their spears. The village is small, and the houses very dilapidated ; it is 1800 feet above sea-level. Maka was buying taro with salt, and having finished, some natives noticed damp salt adhering to his hand ; they seized the hand, and in turn licked it until quite clean. Grains of salt falling were sought for and picked up. The shields here are the same as at Hood Bay, beautifully made. They are going to fight soon with another district, and are making great preparations in spears, clubs, and shields.
23r<3f. — Our spiritist gave us a very short and indis- tinct seance last night. A man speared the other day in a wallaby hunt, near the Laroki, he told us, was dead. He seemed to be raving a great deal, and wound up the first part with, Nao kuku daure (Foreign tobacco is bad). Continuing to rave and disturb sleep, I told Oriope that, if that spirit did not at once go back where it came from, I should certainly have to make it ; he reported what I said, and the spirit thought it
Sketches of Papuan Life 103
advisable to leave. We started this morning after a good breakfast, and had good travelling across a fine level country E.S.E. for about four hours, crossing several times the head of the Laroki : it is a magnificent country for horses. In somewhat thick scrub, a youth met the first of our party, and was fraternising very feelingly with them : I appeared, and he took to his heels, and no calling of friends or foreigners could bring him back. We came suddenly upon a woman and two children, and, poor things, they went into a terrible state ; nothing would com- fort them ; beads, tobacco, and salt lost their charm on them. The family pig was with them ; it danced, grunted, advanced, retired, and finally made at me. In the morning I took a piece of plaster from my heel, and threw it into the fireplace; instant search was made for it, by about a dozen natives ; it was found and handed back to me, they making signs that I should throw it somewhere else. Yesterday morning I unthinkingly put the loose hair from my comb into the fire, and great was the outcry.
We are now in Nameanumu, in the Sogeri district, and in a fine house twelve feet from the ground. We are about 1530 feet above sea-level. Teachers here need have no difficulty about food ; there is a great abundance all round of taro, banana, sugar-cane, and bread-fruit. A teacher with some * go ' in him, and a good earnest wife to help him, would do well here. I am inclined to think an easier way here will be from Moumiri ; but we have to travel with natives where they can take us with safety to themselves. Sitting round the fire a little while ago, our spirit
lOJ Adventure in New Guinea
friend having just left us, an old woman shouted out to Oriope to look out, as the spirit was about to go through the thatch near to where he was sitting. Instant search was made, but nothing found. She then called out from her verandah that it had gone, as Rua and Maka were doing something with their guns. I may say the old woman was with us last night, and heard my threat. We have had the description here of some other animal that is in the Kupele and Moroka districts. It is a dangerous one to go near, and several have lost their lives from it.
2\th. — Very heavy rain. A number of people have come in from the villages to have a look at us, so I have to go through the process of baring arms and chest. This forenoon they described an animal to us that I think must be the tiger — a long animal, with a long tail and large paws, treads lightly when seeing its prey, and then bounds upon it, tearing the bowels out first. They say they are as long as the house — twelve feet. We are not prepared to tackle such customers. Our host is a quiet man, with a very pleasing expression of countenance. I like the people much, and pray God the day is near when they shall have the Gospel preached unto them, and receive it, and know it to be the power of God unto salvation. Evil spirits reign over them, and the utterance of every rascally spiritist is thoroughly believed.
They seem very much attached to their children, and in their own peculiar way, I dare say, love their wives. Husband and wife meeting after a separation is strange. Some who returned with us had been away for a fortnight ; their wives looked pleased when
Sketches of Papuan Life 105
they saw them, so did the husbands ; not a word was spoken, only a look ; clubs and spears were put down, and the husbands went to where other men were sitting, the wives to light fires and cook food ; when cooked, the wife took it to the husband, who ate a little, gave away some, and then went and sat by his wife. I have noticed that the wives are particularly happy when preparing this return food. Oriope's wife, who accompanied us, is ill with a cold ; I wished her to take a dose of chlorodyne, but she cried and hesitated much ; the old man then took the cup and told her to look ; he drank some of it, said it was not bad, and then pressed her to drink it off, which she did.
2^th. — We left this morning at eight, and arrived at Orofedabe, in the Favele district, at one P.M. The walking was good and steady, the first few miles along the valley beneath a mountain in the Sogeri district, which we called Mount Nisbet, and the range near to Eikiri. We crossed the Laroki several times, and sat near its head ; then ascended an easy ridge of the Owen Stanley Range. We travelled for about two hours along this ridge, then descended, crossing two streams, which we suppose to be the head streams of the Kemp Welch, flowing into Hood Bay. There are six small villages on ridges close by, high mountains all round, and not far off the mountain on which the wild animal lives. They tried to persuade us that this was Meroka, and there was no use our going further; but we could not believe it, and I brought my compass out, and pointed to them where Eikiri, Sogeri, Kupele, and Hapele were, and told them where
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I expected to find Meroka, which cannot be very far off. When they saw I knew something of our position, they said we could not get to Meroka, because of rocks and wild beasts. At the village where we slept the last two nights they did all they could to detain us, because of the salt and beads. They were assisted by Oriope, who was anxious that all should go to his cousin and friends, with whom we were staying. In a conversation they had under the house, shortly after we arrived, I could hear sufficient to enable me to understand they would keep us there, and not let other villages get salt and beads. I got thoroughly vexed with the old man, and told him he could return home, and that unless we saw numerous villages with plenty of people we should not again return here. He turned right round and told us we should see Favele and Meroka, and many villages, only we must return to his cousin's ; that was all right, we certainly should return. This morning I told him to remain and take care of his wife ; that the people here would lead us and carry our things. He begged of me to leave some of the things to ensure our return, and I did so. Some of the people here are very dark and others very light.
26th. — They tried hard to prevent our going to Meroka this morning, saying we should be eaten by the Jakoni (wild beast) — and how could they return? That would not do — go I must; so I got the things out, and asked some Meroka natives, who had come in, to pick them up and let us start. They refused, and joined in with our friends, saying we had better remain. No ; I must see Meroka, and until I saw it not a taro
Sketches of Papuan Life 107
would be bought nor a pile of salt given. They all sat down, looking true savages. After some time I said, *Meroka, or we return at once.' I got my bag and went on to the path ; they got up, and called to me to come back — they would go to Meroka, but leave the things, and return here to sleep. No ; I must have the things ; I might want to sleep at Meroka. That was terrible, the salt would be finished, and there would be none for them here. Would I not consent to their taro being bought, and then they would go with me ? No ; Meroka first, and taro when we return.
Seeing there was nothing for it — that go I would — they consented, and the Meroka folks picked up the things, and away we went. It was a short walk across the side of a ridge, down about 600 feet and up to 1 500, and then along another ridge. We soon had crowds to see us, men, women, and children ; and all were delighted, for we bought their taro. The village we stayed at was new, and they told us formerly they lived further in on the mountain, but a man was eaten by the Jakoni^ and they came down. A number of natives were in mourning for the man eaten. After some time we got up to ascend the ridge, to have a good view of the villages, and decide on our position. They tried hard to prevent us, but we went on, a few following to the next village. They pretended great fear of the Jakoni, and at some places begged of us to tread lightly, and not to speak. It was all a ruse to get us back. We went on, and up to the highest village, where we had a splendid view. We counted fourteen villages on the ridges in the Meroka basin and on the other side of the river we had crossed, and as many more known as
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Havele. I believe it would be much easier to get here from Eikiri than from Sogeri. The natives of Orira- mamo, the highest village, told us they went from there to Eikiri in one day.
The people of Meroka are very mixed, some very dark, others very light. Some of the women had quite an Eastern Polynesian look ; some of the children were well-formed, and really pretty. A few men had light- coloured whiskers; curly heads abounded, although a number had straight hair. They say they are not Koiari. The Koiari comprises Munikahila, Eikiri, Sogeri, Taburi, Makapili Pakari ; and Eikiri is N.W. from Oriramamo; Mount Bellamy is W.N.W. A high round mountain, I have named Ben Cruachan, east ; Mount Nisbet, W.S.W. The high rock on the easterly side of Mount Nisbet is just over the house where we slept, and will be known in future as the Clachan. They say there are five kinds of wild animals on the moun- tains at the back, and but for these they could easily cross to Kupele. The Jakoni, Gomina, and Agila are very large and fierce. The Papara and Gadana are small, but fierce. We were eating biscuits, and they begged for a very small piece each, to keep as a charm to help them catch pigs. Hairs from the beard are in great demand as charms. Having seen all we wanted to, and not being able to persuade the natives to accompany us up to the mountain to see the wild animals, I decided to return to Orofedabe ; so we returned to the village, gave the taro we bought to the people, paid our attendants and for the house where our things were, and away we went. Our friends were glad to see us, and rejoiced greatly when the taboo was
Sketches of Papuan Life 109
taken off the salt, and taro was bought. We are having rain and thunderstorms every afternoon.
2'jth. — Maka poised a stick twelve feet long on his finger ; the natives tried it and it failed ; again Maka did it, and all who were looking on came to the conclusion it was very easy for him to do, as a spirit held it for him. In each place we have been, when at prayers, all the natives are most respectful, keeping perfect silence and bending their heads. We had a fine tramp back to-day, and a refreshing bath in the Laroki after it. We have paid our carriers, and they are rejoicing greatly. We were glad to find our old friend and his wife well, and the things we left just as we hung them up. They are very anxious to have teachers here. We were telling them that we could see no people, and they have gone and brought in great crowds, saying, ' No people — what are these ? ' I cut up tobacco and spread it out on a leaf in the centre of the crowd, and called out, * For Sogeri.' One of their number was appointed by them, and he distributed it, all sitting quietly round. I got some salt in a paper, and did as with the tobacco. All rose, and in order approached, took some and retired, leaving the re- mainder, nearly half, for a very old man. The beads I gave to the women, the men saying they ought to have had them too. ' Come and live with us ; there is no place like Sogeri — it is good, it is large, it is peaceful, and there is plenty of food.' So say the Sogerians. I was sitting on the ladder of the house, the crowd sitting round. Rua was in the bush with his gun ; he fired at a bird, and it was amusing to see the simultaneous jerk of the crowd when they heard the shot.
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2Zth. — Last night a chief, Biaiori, of Eribagu, slept in the house with us, to be ready to lead us to his village and other villages about in the morning. We started about half-past seven ; but it was evident at the start he had been talked over during the night in! quiet whisper- ings, so as not to take us anywhere but his own village. We walked about a mile and a half, and came to his village, in a fine dry position, much preferable to the one we had left — good houses, one house floored with cedar slabs, and having a fine verandah all round. I wished to see a chief I had met yesterday, Jaroga, and was told he was at the next village, so we up with our bundles and away for about half a mile further on, to a nice clean village. I at once asked Jaroga to lead us to the places he named yesterday ; he was quite willing, and began pointing in the various directions, and naming the villages, but was soon silenced by signs and words from others ; he then said he could not go ; so we left to go to Epakari ; a young man very much attached to Maka, and who has been with us for ten days, having promised yesterday to lead us there. We had to carry our bags — not a very agreeable job. We had great excitement at leaving, our old chief insisting on our going back to Uakinumu ; but we had discarded him, and were determined to find our own way should Someri, Maka's friend, fail us. I gave orders to keep a good look-out on Someri, who was carrying a bundle, and he was given into Maka's care. Our young friend was very quiet, and tried skulking behind and moving on fast ahead. When crossing a ridge about three miles from the village, I was leading, when we heard Maka calling for Someri. Rua at once returned, and found the bird
Sketches of Papuan Life iii
had flown, leaving the bundle, but carrying with him the camp tomahawk, which Maka had foolishly let him have to cut a stick with. It would be folly to return to get the tomahawk, so we kept south and west for some distance, when we came to a deserted village ; then we turned west. We crossed the Laroki several times before we came into the open country ; at our last crossing we met a company of natives, all armed, on watch for Makapili natives, who were expected to attack them. They took our bundles and led us to a small village, where we met some of our Marivaeanumu friends, who led us to their village and to our old house. A young child called Maka was presented for presents, the father telling Maka he called the child after him, because he was his friend when we were here last. We have now the open country before us, and expect no trouble in getting along. The natives are all unsettled at present, and every man we meet is armed. I can see the country better to-day than when here last week. Marivaeanumu is on a rise near the hills of Eikiri and north-north- west from Sogeri. The latter district is in a valley between the Owen Stanley Range and Mount Nisbet, to the south-west of it. Eribagu would make a good station for the Sogeri district. This place would be a suitable station, being at the head of the plain that reaches away to the Astrolabe on the one side and up to Vetura and Uakinumu on the other, stretching east by Mount Nisbet, and away east and south by the country at the back of Mapakapa. The Laroki rises in the Owen Stanley Range, and is the drain for the Sogeri district and all the plain ; it is very circuitous, and near here very deep and slow, flowing west.
112 Adventure in New Guinea
2^th. — For nearly six hours we have been travelling with our bags, and I can honestly say I feel tired. We are now at a new village — the houses just going up — on the top of the high green hill in front of Munikahila, overlooking the Kupa Moumiri . valley. The village is named Keninumu, and consists of four houses at present, two on high trees and two on high rocks. We have pitched our tent close by, and intend resting until Monday, when we hope to start for the plain — a very fine country, but no natives. This part of the plain is dry and barren, with stunted gum-trees. A party met us when near the village, and a woman with a child on her shoulder, I suppose seeing me look tired, insisted on my giving her my bag. I looked at the child, and wondered how she was going to manage, but that was soon arranged ; she made the child sit on her left shoulder, holding her by the hair ; then she took my bundle, and away she went. Some young men have come in from one of the districts we wish to visit, and I hope to keep them until we leave ; it will be a help and of great value as an introduction at this time of trouble. We are 1440 feet above sea-level.
A fortnight ago there was a great wallaby hunt down at Moumiri, and natives from all the districts round were present. A native of Munikahila speared a man from Tabori, who died soon after, so now Makipili, Epakari, and Efari are said to have joined on with Tabori, and unitedly mean to attack Munikahila. All the natives condemn the murder of the man, because of the time and place.
31^-/. — Natives all excitement, expecting Munikahila to be attacked. Every evening the men go armed to
Sketches of Papuan Life 113
Munikahila, and the women, children, dogs, and pigs to the bush. I am sorry our Keninumu friends should consider it their duty to assist the murderers. The natives of the district to which the murdered man belonged are quietly biding their time, hunting wallaby close by us. The kind woman who assisted me the other day has a son by her first husband living at Keninumu, and for a long time she has not seen him, he being afraid to come here. She knows that Maka was returning yesterday, and felt sure her son would accompany him. When some distance from here Maka fired a shot, to let us know he was coming, to which we responded, assuring him all was right. On hearing the shot the poor woman became quite excited, came and sat down by our fire, got up and got us firewood, sat down again, telling Kena to get the taro cooked for Maka, rose again and fetched more firewood, then sat down in front of the path, looking steadily and anxiously for the travellers. Poor body, they came in sight, but her son was not one of them. She seemed to feel it very much, rose, went to her house, and was not again seen until this morning. God grant the day is near when the song the heavenly host sang, ' Glory to God in the highest, peace on earth and goodwill toward men,' shall be known and enjoyed here !
September \st. — We left this morning at seven o'clock and drew up at Makapili at four P.M., resting by the way. For salt, tobacco, and beads we had help all the way. What appears a fine level plain in the distance turns out to be a fine country, full of ridges and luxuriant valleys, abounding in every kind of native vegetable. From the departure this morning until our bringing up
H
114 Adventure in New Guinea
we could have ridden horses at a fine canter along the ridges from one to another. This is the best country I have yet seen in New Guinea,, and the natives seem very kind and friendly. At the Laroki we had to strip, and just above small rapids, holding on by a long line fastened to poles on each side, we crossed over. The natives have the line to help them when the river is up. We called at several villages on the ridges, passed others, some on large table-rocks. Fancy a table- rock with twenty or thirty houses on it. At Chokinumu, a village 1600 feet above the sea S.E., from Marivaeanumu seven miles, we alarmed the people so that they rushed away, leaving us the village. Shortly a man came back, pretending to be very unconcerned, chewing betel-nut ; we soon were friends, and he called out to the others, and they returned. We told him where we were going, and he said he and his wife would accompany us, as we were the first foreigners who had ever been to his village, and he would not leave us. At other villages they also cleared out, screaming terribly. Gimenumu, 1900 feet above sea-level, and two miles east from Chokinumu, will make a fine mission station — a large village, fine plantations, and plenty of water. We crossed several streams from the Astrolabe Range, all flowing into the Laroki. The whole drainage of the Astrolabe Range and of this country falls into the Laroki. We are now in Vaiako, Makipili district, 2250 feet, in a really lovely spot.
There are a great many natives in this district. About four miles from here we passed a deserted village on a table-rock, at one time the home of this people ; but the Sogeri natives came over and killed eleven of
Sketches of Papuan Life 115
them, and the others thought it time to settle some- where else. We have now a splendid view of Mount Owen Stanley, due north of us, and rising far away, clear and distinct above a thick mass of cloud. Mount Bellamy stands alone, with a bare south-east side, and Mount Nisbet just across from here, behind which is Sogeri, so much dreaded by this people. On all the ridges stretching away to the eastward from here behind Kapakapa are natives. A woman, coming to have a look at us, spied our black dog, Misi Dake, and off she went, climbing a tree, kit and all, quicker than I ever saw a native climb before. We met a fine old patriarch in a stream about two miles from here, and the meeting with our friend from Chokinumu was most affecting, touching chins and falling into one another's arms weeping. He sat down beside me with grave dignity, and the woman from Chokinumu sat in front of him, chanting and weeping. We had strawberries coming along, with little or none of the flavour of the home strawberry. The raspberry bush is very abundant.
2nd. — Just after sunrise we had a great crowd up at the tent to have a peep at us. At eight o'clock we started for the summit of the Astrolabe, to have a look at the sea. It is very broken on the summit, and we had a good deal of ascending and descending before we got over Kaili, to be disappointed in not seeing the sea, the fog hanging thick under our feet. We returned by a very circuitous path, passing several villages built on rocks and trees. On one large table-rock was a snug village, and to the east of the rock four large posts beautifully carved. On feast days the food is collected
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close to these, and a platform is fixed on the posts, on which dancing takes place. We returned at three P.M. The old chief soon followed us up to the camp with a large present of food, and saying he hoped we would soon return. I hope the same. After some delay, so that it might not appear as payment for the present, we gave our present to the old chief; when he got the tomahawk he wept for joy, looked at his friends, then at us, pressed it to his bosom, and then kissed it. The chief's name is Kunia.
3r<^. — We left Makipili this morning at eight o'clock, and came along leisurely, arriving at Chokinumu at half- past ten. The chief and his wife who accompanied us pressed us to stay a night in their village, and, seeing it would displease them if we went on, we consented. We had a thorough downpour of rain in the afternoon, after a very hot sun, the thunder rolling all round us. The chief Lohiamalaka and his wife are exceedingly kind and attentive; they have kept close by us since we left here on Monday. I am sorry for the Makipili people ; they are so afraid of Sogeri that they have left their houses and are living in the bush, and under the shelter of rocks. Sogeri, Makipili says, will listen to no conditions of peace. Several overtures have been made, but all are useless. We were told at several places that if we ventured to Makipili we should never return ; but we have been there, were treated kindly, and pressed to return.
/i,th. — Using our blankets yesterday as a flag for our tent, they got so wet that it required a day to dry them, so we decided to remain here and visit the Laroki Falls. Ten days ago we found from the natives
Of- '^
t//V/:-..^^f
LIS Or
Sketches of Papuan Life ,^ 117
that they were near here. The native name is Round, We found the falls in a deep gorge formed by the west end of Astrolabe and east end of Vetura Range. On each side of the gorge the mountains run sharp down, in many places precipitous rocks. The falls are E. from Port Moresby, E.S.E. from Moumili, and S.E. from Vetura proper. They are grand, and well worth seeing. I wish we had seen them from below. For a long distance up there are small falls and rapids. The water comes surging on, and then takes a fearful leap of many hundred feet on to a ledge, and from there to the boiling cauldron below. The noise is deafening. Where we stood, nearly level with the water, it was 1340 feet above sea-level, and I do not think that from there to the cauldron could be less than 900 feet. I think it may be possible to get to them from the north side by Mangara, and then we can rightly tell the height of the falls.
^th. — Left Chokinumu this morning at eight, and had a pleasant walk for three hours, ascending gradually the Astrolabe until we reached the summit at the back of Tupuselei, 2300 feet high. We were resting before descending, when a native party appeared and approached us, somewhat scared. They said on coming up they heard the noise as of chopping wood (we were marking trees). They came on and saw through the bush a white man, and at once went back ; then, hearing as if natives were with him speaking in Koiari, they returned and determined to meet us. They were much pleased at receiving a present of salt. We descended on the west side of the Astrolabe ; the descent, being steep and difficult, took us some time.
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In the afternoon we arrived at Janara, near to Efari, at the back of Pyramid Point, the Astrolabe bearing north. Our friend Lohiamalaka, the chief of Geminumu Monito, and three youths are with us. I have never met a kinder and more friendly native than Lohiama- laka. Janara is a good large district, and seems to have a number of natives. The village we are in is 600 feet above sea-level. Tupuselei is the nearest mission station, and a teacher placed here or at Efari would have constant communication with that place. I was the