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JERUSALEM
1918— 1920
I
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Plan of Citadel Gardens.
No. I.
I
I
JERUSALEM
1918-1920
Being the Records of the Pro-Jerusalem
Council during the period of the British
Military Administration
EDITED BY C. R. ASHBEE
LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W.
Published for
THE COUNCIL OF THE PRO-JERUSALEM SOCIETY
1921
PREFACE
THE Pro-Jerusalem Society was founded in fact, though not on paper, in the spring following Lord Allenby's liberation of Jerusalem. There were, and will always remain, many aspects of civic life, more especially in this unique city, in which no Military Administration, no Civil Government even, could, without thwarting civic and individual effort, occupy itself, however sympathetically inclined. And in the hard and continuous pressure of the first weeks of the occupation it was clearly impossible for the Military Authorities to execute themselves or guarantee execution of even such primal necessities as are indicated by the following Public Notice : —
"No person shall demolish, erect, alter, or repair the structure of any building in the city of Jerusalem or its environs within a radius of 2,500 metres from the Damascus Gate (Bab al Amud) until he has obtained a written permit from the Military Governor.
"Any person contravening the orders contained in this procla- mation, or any term or terms contained in a licence issued to him under this proclamation, will be liable upon conviction to a fine not exceeding £E.200.
"(Sgd.) R. Storrs, Colonel, "Jerusalem. Military Governor.
"April 8th, 1918."
or another, issued about the same time, forbidding the use of stucco and corrugated iron within the ancient city walls, and thus respecting the tradition of stone vaulting, the heritage in Jerusalem of an immemorial and a hallowed past.
The issue of these two orders ensured the temporary and pro- visional Military Administration against the charge of encouraging or permitting vandalism. It is, however, no less impossible than it would be improper to attempt the preservation and extension of the amenities of the Holy City without due consultation with the Heads of the Religious and Lay Communities which inhabit it. The Pro- Jerusalem Society was then the Military Governor civically and sestheti- cally in Council, and the political effect of such a reunion round one table
I73xlf^1 H
of differing, and very often actively discordant, elements bound together here by their common love for the Holy City is not to be under-estimated. From the first the venture enjoyed the active patronage and support of the Commander-in-Chief, who never failed to encourage and stimulate our endeavours.
Later in the year 191 8, hearing of the presence in Egypt of the architect Mr. C. R. Ashbee, a friend and disciple of William Morris, a member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings, and of the National Trust, and well known for his skill and enthusiasm for civic development with its kindred Arts and Crafts, I wrote to him requesting him to visit Jerusalem and write a report on its possibilities in this respect. That report is the germ of many of the undertakings which have since been carried out. Mr. Ashbee was appointed Civic Advisor and Secretary to the Pro-Jerusalem Council. Some ££.5000 were collected by direct appeal to those likely to be interested in Jerusalem, and the various projects and activities, a list of which is set forth by Mr. Ashbee, or may be referred to in Appendix III, were set in motion. A great impulse was given to the scope and status of the Society by the arrival of Sir Herbert Samuel as High Commissioner. His Excellency had, during his visit in the spring of 1920, attended a meeting of the Council, of which he had been unanimously elected a member, and signified his approval of our aims by a most encouraging speech as well as a generous subscription. Amongst many other causes of gratitude the Society owes to him its Charter and an arrangement whereby the Government affords it a very considerable annual subvention.
It only remains for me to convey my personal thanks once again to all those benefactors and supporters whose names appear in the list given on pages 72-74 of this publication, to call attention to the generosity of the gifts, and to invite all whom these pages may reach to forge in their lives a link with Jerusalem the living.
A reference, indeed, to the list of subscribers, and that is to say members of the Society, will show how wide the net is spread. Rever- ence for Jerusalem and what it stands for in the life of man has been the motive that has inspired these gifts, and I make bold to hope that this record of two years' work in the safeguarding of the Holy City may gather in many hundreds of subscribers among the three great religions for which it stands as a beacon on a hill.
Under the new Charter anyone who subscribes not less than £5 a year to the Society, or makes a donation of not less than £25 towards its great work of preserving what is old and ennobling what is new in the
VI
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Holy City, becomes a member of the Pro- Jerusalem Society; and the objects of the Society, as defined in the Charter, are "the preservation and advancement of the interests of Jerusalem, its district and inhabi- tants ; more especially : —
" I. The protection of and the addition to the amenities of Jerusalem and its district.
'2. The provision and maintenance of parks, gardens, and open spaces in Jerusalem and its district.
'3. The establishment in the district of Jerusalem of Museums, Libraries, Art Galleries, Exhibitions, Musical and Dramatic Centres, or other institutions of a similar nature for the benefit of the Public.
'4. The protection and preservation, with the consent of the Govern- ment, of the Antiquities in the district of Jerusalem.
The encouragement in the district of Jerusalem of arts, handi- crafts, and industries in consonance with the general objects of the Society.
The administration of any immovable property in the district of Jerusalem which is acquired by the Society or entrusted to it by any person or corporation with a view to securing the improvement of the property and the welfare of its tenants or occupants.
'7. To co-operate with the Department of Education, Agriculture, Public Health, Public Works, so far as may be in harmony with the general objects of the Society."
This, then, is the aim of the Pro-Jerusalem Society. The Palestine Administration gives to the Society pound for pound of what it collects from private membership contributions. I make here an appeal for two thousand additional members.
Ronald Storrs, IS March 192 1. Governor of Jerusalem.
"<
vu
Appendices ••
zi
CONTENTS
Page
Preface. By Ronald Storks, C.B.E., C.M.G., Governor of Jerusalem ... v
List OF iLtUSTRATIONS
Council of the Pro-Jerusalem Society
Official Review of the Various Works undertaken by the Society. By C. R. AsHBEE, F.R.I. B.A., Civic Advisor to the City of Jerusalem
1. The Old City
2. The New Town Plan
3. The Archaeological Needs of the Holy City
4. The Park System
5. The Markets
6. New Industries ...
7. Technical Education
8. Civic Regulations
9. Social Work
10. Finance
I
II
IS 19 26
30 35 37 39 41
"Les Restes de la Civilisation Israelite Proteges par la Society."
Par Dr. Nahum Slousch, L.D. Sorbonne 43
"Les Monuments de l'Epoque Romaine ProtjSg^s par la Society." Par L. H. Vincent, Prof, a I'Ecole biblique et archeologique de Saint-£tienne, Jerusalem ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 56
"Monuments des Croisades Proteges par la Soci^Tf." Par T. M. Abel,
Prof, a r£cole biblique et archeologique de Saint-£tienne, Jerusalem ... 61
"Muslim Work Touched by the Society." By K. A. C. Creswell,
M.B.E., Late Inspector of Monuments, G.S., O.E.T 67
71
Index 81
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
1. Plan of the Citadel Gardens {Frontif piece).
2. The Citadel of Jerusalem, seen from outside the Jaffa Gate.
3. „ „ „ seen from the top of the Minaret.
4. The Rampart Walk, with guard-house near St. Stephen's Gate, showing
GANGS of labourers AT WORK.
5. Rampart Walk, clearings in progress.
6. Modern encroachments on the walls.
7. The Damascus Gate.
8. St. Stephen's Gate.
9. The Abu Liya Playground : Plan.
10. The Abu Liya Playground, as at present and as suggested.
11. Old wooden window.
12. Roof system of the S6q el 'AttarIn, showing louvres in danger of falling.
13. Another view of the same, showing fallen louvres.
14. The Suq el 'AttarIn roof : looking to the Dome of the Rock and the Mount
OF Olives.
15. The S6q el 'Attarin seen from below where the vaults have been shored up.
16. The Suq el 'Attarin from within, looking north.
17. Plan of the SOq el Qattanin.
18. The SOq el Qattan!n : Main Arcade.
19. The Dome of the Rock.
20. The same, showing the tile surface.
21. The McLean Plan.
22. The Geddes Plan.
23. The Hammam el Batrak : Central Vaulted Hall.
24. „ „ „ Plan and Elevation.
25. The Jerusalem Park system.
26. Key Plan of the Jerusalem Rampart Walk.
27. The Citadel Gardens : South Terrace (converted fosse).
28. „ „ „ AT the entrance TO THE CiTADEL.
29. „ „ „ showing the base of THE ToWER OF DaVID.
30. „ „ „ NEAR THE DrAWBRIDGE.
31. „ „ „ converted fosse.
32. The Rampart Walk : showing how a roof has been built over the walk
33. „ „ „ near the Bab Nebi Da-ud.
zi
ILLUSTRATIONS
34. The Rampart Walk : showing a woman clearing away an encroachment.
35. „ „ „ COVERED BY 12 FT. OF "tIP," AND A NEW WALL BUILT ON
THE TOP OF IT.
36. „ „ „ SHOWING HOW THE ENCROACHMENT HAS BEEN TUNNELLED.
37. „ „ „ THE SAME POINT SEEN NEARER AND SHOWING THE GIRLS AT
WORK.
38. „ ;, „ SHOWING THE GRADUAL DESTRUCTION OF THE CITY WALL.
39. „ ,, ,, AT THE El Aqsa Mosque.
40. The Jaffa Gate as it was when the "Kaiser's Breach" was being made, and
before the building of the Turkish Clock Tower.
41. „ „ „ showing the suggested reconstruction of the fosse and
the wall.
42. View from the Jaffa Gate, showing the present unsightly obstructions.
43. „ „ „ „ „ showing THE proposed new placing OF THE Mar-
ket after the clearing OF THE OBSTRUCTIONS.
44. View Looking towards the Jaffa Gate : showing how the unsightly build-
ings obliterate the line of the
WALL.
45. „ „ „ „ „ „ AFTER the removal OF THESE BUILD-
ings and the making of the park.
46. The Post Office Square : Plan and elevation of the work now in progress.
47. „ „ „ „ Photograph showing the derelict state before
the work was begun.
48. „ „ „ „ Diagram showing the work when completed.
49. The Jaffa Road (Haim Valero or Mahanna Yudah) Market.
50. „ „ „ showing the market enclosure proposed.
51. „ „ „ Plan and sections of the proposed market.
52. The David Street IVIarket : to the north, as at present, blocked up
with debris.
53. „ „ „ „ AS IT WILL be when THE DEBRIS IS REMOVED AND
the arches opened out. 54- >, „ „ „ as at present and as proposed.
55. Fallen arcade in the Mauristan.
56. The Sdo el Qattanin : the entrance from the street.
57. „ „ ,, ,, THE great chamber.
58. A SyRLAN POTTER AT WORK.
59. Group of Hebron glass-blowers.
60. A Hebron glass-worker in his shop in Jerusalem.
61. A Hebron glass.
62. The Society's Weaving Apprentices in their uniform.
zii
ILLUSTRATIONS
63. The Weaving Apprenticeship Ceremony : Opening of the Jerusalem Looms
IN 1919.
64. Dome construction in Jerusalem.
65. A Jerusalem carpenter's window.
66. Its modern substitute.
67. Relief labour at work on the Citadel clearings.
68. Prisoners shifting large stones at the Citadel.
69. The Wailing Wall : showing the lower, or Herodian, blocks of stone.
70. „ „ „ showing the upper, post-Titus, courses that have
been recently repaired.
71. The Tombs of "The Kings."
72. Photograph showing the present derelict state of one of the rock-tombs.
73. Diagram showing the ancient doorway.
74. Plan of the projected park which is to incorporate and guard the ancient
Jewish rock tombs.
75. Carving of an ancient tomb with a modern fracture and a modern Hebrew
inscription on the cornice.
76. The ancient Roman Staircase at Siloam.
77. Dome of the Rock : Plan.
78. East entrance to the S6q el QattanIn.
79. Inscription uncovered at the Citadel.
Xlll
COUNCIL OF THE PRO-JERUSALEM SOCIETY
Founded September 1918. Incorporated October 1920 (under the Palestine Administration).
HON. PRESIDENT. The Right Hon. SIR HERBERT SAMUEL, High Commissioner of Palestine.
PRESIDENT. RONALD STORRS, C.M.G., C.B.E., Governor of Jerusalem.
COUNCIL. Hon. Member: The Right Hon. Viscount Milner, K.C.B.
Members. The Mayor of Jerusalem. The Director of Antiquities. His Eminence the Grand Mufti. His Reverence the President of the Franciscan Community, the Custodian of
the Holy Land. His Reverence the President of the Dominican Community. His Beatitude the Greek Patriarch. His Beatitude the Armenian Patriarch. The President of the Jewish Community. The Chairman of the Zionist Commission. Le Rev. P^re Abel (Ecole Biblique de Saint-Etienne). Le Cafitaine Barluzzi. M. Ben Yahuda.
Capt. K. a. C. Creswell, M.B.E. (Inspector of Monuments, G.S., O.E.T.). Dr. M. D. Eder. Prof. Patrick Geddes R. A. Harari.
Musa Kazem Pasha el Husseini (Ex-Mayor of Jerusalem). Commander H. C. Luke.
Capt. Mackay (Inspector of Monuments, G.S., O.E.T.). Mr. Meyuhas.
* Le Capitaine Paribeni.
Mr. Lazarus Paul (Acting Representative of the Armenian Patriarch).
* Lt.-Col. E. L. Popham. Mr. E. T. Richmond.
Mr. D. G. Salameh (Ex Vice-Mayor of Jerusalem). Dr. Nahum Slousch. Mr. Jacob Spafford.
* Lt.-Col. Waters Taylor, C.B.E.
Le Rev. PIre Vincent (Dominican Convent).
Mr. John Whiting, Hon. Treasurer.
Mr. David Yellin (Vice-Mayor of Jerusalem),
C. R. Ashbee, Hon. Sec, Civic Advisor to the City of Jerusalem.
• Those marked with on asterisk are no longer active numbers.
XV
NOTE
While there has been careful collaboration between the various writers of the essays here following, the Council, as well as the in- dividual writers, wish it understood that the latter alone take responsibility for any state- ments made.
The Council also desire to thank the
American Colony for the use of many valuable
photographs .
Ed.
JERUSALEM
191 8-1920
The Old City
1. In the old city the Pro-Jerusalem Society has, since the British occupation, undertaken several large and a number of minor pieces of work. To several of the former, such as the cleaning of the Citadel, the clearing out of the city fosse, the Rampart Walk, the Citadel Gardens, the repair of the Dome of the Rock, and the restoration of the Suq el Qattanin, special sections will be devoted below.
The Society's objective has been to regard the old city as a unity in itself, contained within its wall circuit, dominated by its great castle with the five towers, and intersected with its vaulted streets and arcades, the houses often locked one over the other, and in separate ownerships — " Zion is a city compact together." It is this compactness or unity, so characteristic of Jerusalem, that the Society has set itself to preserve.
2. Perhaps the most difficult of all these works was the cleaning of the Citadel (see Illustrations 2 and 3). This cleaning is by no means finished, for great masses of stone debris, the remains of a late Turkish fortress, guard-rooms and offices, some of which had fallen down before the war, and which Jemal Pasha had started to remove, have still to be cleared away. Soon after the British occupation of Jerusalem the city was filled with thousands of refugees, mainly from Es Salt, and to these people the Citadel had been handed over. There was much sickness, the misery and squalor were pitiful, and it took a long time before the relief officers were able to cope with the difficulty, a still longer time to clean up after the withdrawal of the refugees.
The Society then worked out a method by which the clearing and cleaning should be done by refugee labour, and such of the refugees as were able-bodied were utilized in, so to speak, tidying up their own house. Many hundreds of men, women, and children, organized in different working gangs, were used thus, as will be seen by reference to Section 39 and Section 21, where also are shown pictures of the gangs at work.
To the Citadel itself much has still to be done. The roofs of some of the great vaulted chambers are in a serious condition, and should be
THE OLD CITY
protected from the rains ; there are dangerous cracks at several points In the ancient masonry, coping and battlements In many places need repair. But as no money was or Is yet at Its disposal, the Society has been unable to do anything beyond cleaning and the clearing of debris. It Is estimated that about £i,ooo was spent In this work, but the bulk of It was paid, not out of Pro-Jerusalem funds, but out of the various relief funds — Muslim, Christian, Armenian, and Jewish — that were from time to time put at the disposal of the Military Governor by the various religious communities.
3. The cleaning of the Citadel implied the cleaning of the fosse. The Turks had used the fosse as a tlpplng-pit for refuse. On the south and east were great cess-pits; on the west their plan had been to fill it up entirely, thus gradually covering the glacis, and turning the fosse into road and building sites. They had even at one time proposed to sell the ramparts and level them with the fosse ; but this, fortunately, pre- sented Insurmountable difficulties. As it was decided to reverse Turkish methods, a new plan had to be adopted, and this may be seen by refer- ence to the Frontispiece. The dotted line at A A indicates where the
fosse had been obliterated and thrown into the road. The plan shows the new gardens and terraces which the Society has laid out. How is
the point of junction at A A to be treated ? This Involves one
of the most important civic improvements, which will be considered in its place (see Section 22).
4. The cleaning of the fosse, which led to that method of garden - planning just referred to, and which will be more fully described in Section 20, the Jerusalem Park system, led next to the cleaning of the ramparts, the uncovering of the old sentinels' walk round the walls, and the opening of some of the ancient guard-houses, some of which were covered with many feet of debris. Of these guard-houses four have been uncovered in whole or part (see Illustration 4), and of the Rampart Walk about one-half has been opened out, and inconspicuous iron hand- rails have been fixed at the dangerous points. From the walk itself some thirty encroachments were removed. The type of encroachment most common is best seen in Illustration 6. It consists usually in an attempt to convert the ancient wall into private property. In the sketch shown, a is the Damascus Gate, J is a block of dwellings in private ownership, and the wall has been blocked at X and Y. In this work of clearing the Rampart Walk the Society has had gangs of labourer?
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Modern encroachments that the Society is clearing.
No. 6.
THE OLD CITY
employed for many months, and has spent altogether about £500, in addi- tion to the sums earmarked for relief work from the Governor's special funds (see Illustrations 4 and 5).
5. A word may be said about the gates which are so characteristic a feature of the Holy City. The Society has been instrumental in clean- ing up or doing work to the Damascus Gate (Illustration 7), St. Stephen's Gate (Illustration 8), Herod's Gate, and the Jaffa Gate (see Illustrations 2 and 3).
At the Jaffa Gate it stopped the soldiers on one occasion from turning the gate into a camp kitchen. At St. Stephen's Gate a bath contractor had appropriated the whole of the top of the gate for baking dung cakes. The Society had him cleared out, likewise the breeding- place for flies which he had assisted in establishing. The guard-house adjoining the gate had been used as a public latrine. The Society cleaned and repaired this at a cost of some £50 ; it was subsequently used by the city police. At Herod's Gate the Society also did protective work, and repaired the gate-house at a cost of about £20, turning it into a home for one of its gardeners, to whom a piece of land adjoining was given. The Damascus Gate is about to be handled in the same way, and the approach from it to Herod's Gate is now being cleared.
6. While work was in progress at the Zion or David's Gate quarter, where, adjoining the Jewish Ghetto, is one of the worst slums in the city, a proposal was made for laying out a children's recreation ground. The Society entered into a contract with Mrs. Norman Bentwich on the one hand, and the Abu Liya Wakf on the other, to take over a piece of derelict and very filthy land, on a ten years' lease, at a rent of £10 a year, to make a playground of it. Mrs. Bentwich undertook the planting and upkeep with the aid of a band of Jewish girl gardeners. The Society, with the assistance of the Zionist Commission, who supplied a special gang of labourers, did the laying-out and rebuilt the walls. The Society appropriated the sum of £25 for this work, in addition to the annual rent, and exclusive of the sums disbursed by the Zionist Commission, whose labour it superintended.
Unfortunately, after the first work of planting had been done a series of nightly raids was made upon the garden, and it was stripped of every tree, shrub, or flower. The police were unable to give the neces- sary protection, and the work had, for the time being, to be suspended. The present population of the Holy City has much to learn yet in the
o
^
THE OLD CITY
elementary duties of citizenship. When the little playground is finished it will come somewhat as shown in Illustrations 9 and 10.
Abu Liya Playground. No. p.
In the course of making the playground certain discoveries of ancient work were made which are referred to by Pere Vincent in the chapter on Graeco-Roman remains touched by the Society (see Section 57).
7. On another occasion a question of principle had to be decided which involved the destruction of an old, if not very important, land- mark. Among the most characteristic features of Jerusalem are the overhanging wooden windows. The owners of a certain Wakf had applied to me for a building permit which involved the destruction of the window shown in Illustration li. It is of no great age, but it has, together with the small domed room of which it is a part, a character of its own. The owners pleaded that, wood being so difficult to get, it would cost them much more to retain and repair the window, which was falling into the street, than to rebuild the wall flush and insert a new window. They were willing to pay an extra £10 in order to save the
THE OLD CITY
window, and it was finally agreed that the Society would contribute the value of the material, estimated at £4, provided the work of repair was done to the Society's satisfaction.
8. Perhaps one of the most important pieces of work the Society has had to do in the old city has been the preservation of the ancient Suqs and covered ways. Unfortunately, the necessary money has not as yet been forthcoming to do this work as it should be done. Mere patching of ancient roofs and vaults is not enough. Under the unique conditions of Jerusalem property ownership and tenure a special system of procedure had to be worked out as a preliminary to repair. This is now being done, and a grant or loan has been promised by the Administration for the gradual repair, coupled with the condition of a pro-rata le\'y to be imposed by the municipality on all tenants and property owners.
The blizzard of February 1920 brought matters to a head. As the result of it some 150 houses collapsed, and a large part of the Suq el 'Attarin was in danger of falling (see Illustrations 12 to 16).
The record of this is significant. In January and February 1919 Pere Vincent, Mr. Ernest Richmond, then Secretary of the Pro-Jerusalem Society, Mr. Guini, the municipal engineer, and I as Civic Advisor, had already reported to the Society on the dangerous condition of the Suq. Our reports advised the immediate expenditure of some £2,000. But the Administration had no money, and nothing could be done. As a result of the blizzard the repair will now, it is estimated, cost more like £3,000. All turns on the complexity of the roof system which covers the streets. Illustrations 12 and 14 show the great area to be dealt with, and some of the difficulties. The properties are all interlocked, and the streets are lit and ventilated through stone louvres so designed as to screen the sun from the streets below. The surface water drains off in accordance with fall, and if the roof or louvre is neglected at one point it may lead to irreparable damage to neighbouring property. Illustration 13 shows where one of these louvres has collapsed after having been tem- porarily and badly patched. Illustration 12 shows how the vaulting stones are disintegrating, and Illustration 14 shows, at the point where the men are standing, how some twenty metres of wall has collapsed to the danger of the thoroughfare below. Illustrations 15 and 16 show the condition of the vaults below. At the moment when orders were given to shore, the whole street at this point was in danger of giving way.
9. The Society's most important undertaking was the repair in 1919 of the Sijq el Qattanin (see Illustrations 17 and 18). This, as will be
6
Abu Liya Playground, seen from the Bah Nebi Da-ud
{as a I present)
•Yo. in.
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Abu Liya Playground, seen from the Bab Nebi Da-ud
{as suggested)
No. 10.
Si:
Old wooden zvindoiv.
A'o. IT.
No. 12.
On the roof of Stiq el. Attann.
On tlw top of Sfiq rl Attarin.
No. 7,\
Showing range' of the Suq roofs looking west to the Mount of Olives
{Note falU'ii uiall)
No. 14.
f*-*"
The Silq el Qattanin.
C.R ASHBE-E,
No. 17.
a. The Central Arcade.
b. Booths which have rooms over.
c. Central Hall.
d. Hammam-es-Shaffei.
e. Classroom.
f. Dyeing and Spinning.
g. Reserved jor Glass-work. h. Haram-es-Sherif.
THE OLD CITY
seen by reference to Captain Creswell's description in Section 70, is one of the noblest streets in Jerusalem. The Society has spent on this about £1,000. Had the work not been done, or had the work been postponed, as in the case of the Suq el Qattanin just referred to, large portions of the Suq would have collapsed in the snowstorm.
Further references are made to the Suq el Qattanin in connexion with the weaving industry, of which it is now the centre (see Section 27). Therefore I will refer here only to the general plan, which shows what has been done structurally, and what is still intended. This plan (see Illustration 17) is based upon that of the Palestine Survey, which, how- ever, was found to be inaccurate. It has not been possible to correct it. Many of the shops are still walled up, and since the date of the Survey portions of the old buildings to which Captain Creswell alludes, those on the north side of the plan, appear to have been destroyed to make way for a modern house.
10. Of the repairs to the Dome of the Rock (Illustrations 19 and 20), which the Society's assistance enabled the Wakf authorities at a critical period to undertake, a few words must now be said. Captain Creswell's notes in Section 68 should be consulted for the latest his- torical data. For the initial repair work the Society advanced the sum of £232, and it has since, at the instance of the Administration, guaran- teed an agreement between the Wakf and their contractor, Mr. David Ohanessian, who has been appointed to make, in the old furnaces, such tiles as are needed for the repair and upkeep of the building. The super- vision of this important work has been since the outset in the hands of Air. Ernest Richmond, the advisory architect of the Wakf, from whose report of March 1919 the following extract is given : —
"To ensure complete immunity from decay, especially in the case of the more modern tiles, is impossible. The surface of this kind of tile (of which there are very large numbers) is bound to disappear much sooner than that of the earlier tiles, thereby seriously increasing the denuded areas ; and the time is not far distant, if indeed it has not already arrived, when the following question will have to be answered: 'Is the method adopted in the sixteenth century of decorating the outer walls of this building with glazed tiles to be continued in the future, or is that system to be abandoned .?'
"Efforts have for the last 400 years been made to maintain that system. Repair after repair has been carried out. Whatever we may think of the methods followed we must at least acknowledge the effort
8
No. rS.
SHq el Oattanin — Main Arcade.
Dome of the Rock.
Dome oj the Rock.
THE OLD CITY
and admire the perseverance with which it has been made through many generations, and in spite of the obvious difficulties caused by unsatisfactory methods of administration.
"Tiles have decayed in the past, and tiles will decay in the future; some rapidly, some less so ; some by natural and unavoidable causes, others by reason of neglect or lack of skill. In the past they have always been replaced in some form or other, though with varying success and uneven skill.
"If, in the future, the general policy followed throughout 400 years up till the present century of keeping the building endowed with a tiled surface is to be continued, those responsible will have at least in one particular to follow the example of the past ; that is to say, they will have to provide new tiles. This, of course, does not exempt them from doing all that can be done to preserve those that still exist, and in this matter the future guardians of the building may well do better than some of their predecessors.
" If we admit, as I think we are bound to admit, that the Dome of the Rock is not merely a building of archaeological interest, but also a symbol of something very much alive, we must also allow that there is something to be said for maintaining the outward and visible sign of that vitality. All skin decays, but so long as there is life in the body which it covers its tissues are continually renewed.
"So long then as the Dome of the Rock remains a live building — a building, that is to say, which is an integral part in the life that surrounds it — so long as it fulfils the functions it has fulfilled for 1,200 years, so long must its skin be continually renewed in some manner or other, by marble or by mosaic, by tiles or by cement; for the walls have been too much hacked about, in order to provide a key by which to fix surface decoration, to make it tolerable that they should become entirely denuded; nor does cement seem a satisfactory or adequate covering to this building. Within an appreciable number of years the choice will lie between cement as a covering to a considerable proportion of the building, or new tiles."
This extract may not inaptly be followed by the Grand Mufti's eloquent appeal to Islam. It is translated from the Arabic, and appeared in the Arabic papers on 4 and 5 December 1918.
"Peace be upon you, and the grace of God and His blessings. This sacred Mosque, to which God translated His Prophet one night from the Mosque in Mecca, and in which one prostration before God is counted by him as five hundred — is it not the Aqsa Mosque which God has blessed ? Yet it is neglected, and for several decades was overlooked,
THE OLD CITY
until decay has set in in its frame, and its ornamentation has faded, and the whole edifice stands in peril of disruption, which may God avert. Who desires the loss of this precious gem, unique in its grandeur, its form, its architecture, the soundness of its foundation, and the per- fection of its structure — this wonderful building, the site of which may not be seen on the face of the earth, which causes the greatest architects to shake their heads in wonder and to confess their incapacity to produce its like even were they all to put their heads together?
"Now, when the men of the Occupying Power, and, in particular, H. E. Colonel Storrs, Governor of the Holy Citj^, saw the ruined state in which stood the Mosque, and learnt that the revenues derived from its private wakfs (i.e. without even taking into account the difficulty of obtaining rents at all in those days) do not exceed what is required by way of expenditure for the maintenance of religious rites — when Colonel Storrs saw that, it was an eyesore to him, and he expressed his deep regret, and set about at once — may God watch over him — and applied for an able engineer of those who have specialized in the repairs of ancient places of worship.
"His appeal met with prompt response, for very soon the British Government sent out from its capital, London, the most celebrated engineer and the most competent for this great work. This is Major Richmond, known to the greater part of our Egyptian brethren for the good work done by him in their own places of worship. No sooner arrived than he set to work at once, tucking up his shirt-sleeves of activity, and displaying the utmost interest in minutely examining and investi- gating, and then reporting on what ought to be done. Having examined everything bit by bit, and with the utmost care, he drew up a report fully explaining what was required for the restoration and preservation of this noble edifice, and dwelt specially on the necessity of speedily setting to work. He also showed in an estimate that to get materials, apparatus, and the skilled labour which is required for such delicate work, would necessitate about £80,000, which is not much if the object be to preserve such sacred precincts to which humanity flocks from all parts of the world ; not much — God willing — for those charitable, good people who wish to lend God a pious loan which He will repay to them times over, to extend their generous hands towards Him from all parts of the globe, east and west, and answer His call, which is His, by saying : 'Lo ! Our riches we entail unto Thee.' For verily he erects the Mosques of God who believes in God. Verily, also, God will not suffer good works to go unrewarded."
10
The New Town Plan
II. Passing from the Society's activities in the care and upkeep of the old city, we now come to the New Jerusalem. Its first thought here has been the new Town Plan. All modern civic regulation points to the need of town-planning. The plan is the index or method on which the orderliness of a city is based. But a Town Plan, especially in an Eastern city, implies much more than the mere laying out of streets and alignments. The Arabs have a word " tartib," formed from the verb "rattab," to make tidy, and meaning the method or scheme on which work is to be undertaken ; this " tartib," or method of how to make tidy, is what we have to consider. The confusion into which industrialism has thrown all the conditions of life, whether in east or west, has made the Town Plan essential for every city that is in any way alive. It is doubly necessary for a city which has been threatened, as has Jerusalem, with violent changes in the last twenty-five years, and has at the same time a unique record, an immense wealth of historic building, and a curious and romantic beauty of its own.
But a Town Plan for such a city depends for its excellence on —
(a) Its grasp of certain principles, social as well as architectural ;
(b) Its power of adaptability ;
(c) The administrative machinery that is set up to give intelli-
gent eff"ect to the plan.
If the principles are ignored — e.g., the religious divisions of a com- munity, or the industrial needs, or the question of water supply, or the observation of contours — or if the sanitary needs are over or under esti- mated, or the prevalent winds ignored, or the planting of the trees, or the education of the city's children, or if any of these things are insuffi- ciently considered, the whole plan may be impaired. Or, again, if a plan be so rigid in its conception that it checks the normal development of any of these things, it is like a panel that cracks. We get a different result from that of our anticipation. A good plan must have power of variability, as a good bit of wainscoting must move with the wind and the sun and yet not give. To make this variability possible there must be an administrative machinery having power to modify the plan in accordance with the principles on which it is being worked out, for the principles themselves may change, and they certainly need constant study. This study is the concern of the politician and the sociologist quite as much as of the draughtsman, the architect, or the engineer.
II
THE NEW TOWN PLAN
12. It follows from these considerations that a good plan cannot be the work of one man only. It must be the study of many minds, imply a co-ordinated knowledge focused upon the city which it is sought to ennoble, or to which the "tartib," or system of tidiness, is to be applied.
There have been many plans prepared for the Holy City during recent years in whole or part, and by many different people. There have been the various plans projected and in part carried out by Jemal Pasha and the German architects, who were called in to reconstruct portions of the city or make new roads before the British occupation. There were the plans and the new streets of Ephthemius, the Greek priest ; there was the plan of Mr. Victor Hamberg ; there is the official plan of Mr. Guini, the municipal engineer, upon which he and his staff have been working for over a year now — the plan of the city as it actually is ; there are the plans of Mr. McLean (see Illustration 21) and Professor Geddes (see Illustration 22) ; and there are the various plans of portions of the city emanating now from the Public Works Department, now from the Municipality, or from my own office as the need arises.
13. It is necessary here to make special reference to the plans of Mr. McLean and Professor Geddes, because they provide, after the official plan of Mr. Guini, the main lines upon which the final Town Plan is likely to be carried out.
The distinctive quality of the McLean plan, as will be seen by reference to the reproduction (No. 21), is that it isolates the Holy City; sets it, so to speak, in the centre of a park, thus recognizing the appeal it makes to the world — the city of an idea — that needs as such to be pro- tected. The Geddes plan, which should be studied with the McLean plan (see No. 22), accepts this guiding principle, but pays more attention to contours, saves a large sum on roads, and being based on more precise data, and with the experience of many more months of study than it was possible to give during the earlier periods of the military occupation, carries us farther. The Geddes plan revealed the fact that the maps and measurements upon which both the McLean and the Geddes plans were based proved to be faulty. I have myself noted variations of 150 feet. In a sharply undulated district such as Jerusalem, where there are steep ascents and deep valleys in close proximity, this brings us immediately to the principle involved in contours. It is not as on the level plain, where you can, so to speak, drag your net and yet achieve
12
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JERUSALEM TOWN PLANNING SCHEME No. I
General Plan of the Scheme for the Re^to ^Preservation of the Ancient City''"*^^^ of the Modern City : & show- ing' the Lines of Developme of the Future City. ^
Df^§.CRIPT10N OF THE SCHEME
\^01d City within the Walls.
't^edixual aspect Co be preserve^. New bu%iciin^s fTiay be permitted under sped>n^ conditions. i2.Arei^betwcen City Walls ^BrownLine. No /7cV buildings to be permitted and the are\ to be euentually a clear bele \in its ntatt/ra/ state.
3. Aren between Brown Line &. JDotted Brown Line. auildinijs may be erected onlu vith special approval &. under Ipecial conditions rendering
ut^ide dotted BrownLine. ■/i| area planned for future ■rf. The plan shows thealign- ments cf' future streets and open paces 'and the improuenients of existing streets.
,0/
This scheme was prepared at the retfuest of the Military Authorities for the Municipality of Jerusalem.
W. H. Me Lean, M. Inst C.E., I9IS
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THE NEW TOWN PLAN
the same effect of checkers or diagrams. Were we to do this across the undulations of Jerusalem we might find ourselves planning up in the sky, or our level road falling down a steep incline.
The Guini survey, which is correcting the inaccuracies of the Turkish and German mapping, will make it possible to carry out more scientifi- cally that co-ordination of the two plans upon which we are now engaged. Here again the direct assistance of the Society has been given. Realizing that the success of the plan depended upon the survey, the Society has given active support to Mr. Guini's office; it has paid for the printing of the plans, and set aside some £70 for what is even more Important, a contour model, towards which the American Colony have kindly offered to contribute in labour and supervision. Further, the Society has under- taken to pay for a series of aerial photographs which the Royal Air Force is preparing.
14. But neither the McLean plan, the Geddes plan, nor the Guini survey provides one thing which is essential to the future of the city. This is the " zoning " system, by which the city will be divided into areas of occupation, residence, amenities, social service, etc. Such a system can only result from the reasoned need of the citizens them- selves. To effect it some sort of civic commission is required. You can only compel up to a certain point, and you must have the logic of the general need behind you before deciding how far compulsion may be carried.
Then political and industrial considerations enter. The two plaas before us illustrate this very nicely. The McLean plan assumes the rail- way station as the point round which the main growth of the city is to be. The Geddes plan starts from the hypothesis of a University develop- ment mainly towards Mount Scopus. Who can yet say that the city will spread to the north-east, as Professor Geddes suggests, or to the south- west, as postulated by Mr. McLean ? Is there likely to be sufficient indus- trial development to warrant both assumptions .'' Other equally impor- tant considerations enter : Will the University be a Zionist University merely, or will it be frankly non-sectarian, a University in which all the world shares .? Professor Geddes, in his report, has thrown down the glove to Jewry. Will the challenge be taken up .'' It is a question for the Jews alone, but the result of their decision will profoundly affect the city's future — may shift the axis of its development and revolutionize the Town Plan. Until we can see ahead more clearly we cannot zone, and until we zone we cannot make our Town Plan effective.
13
THE NEW TOWN PLAN
15. I said above (Section ll) that the Town Plan depended for its third requisite upon the administrative machinery set up. That so far has been met, rather inadequately, by the office which it is my privilege to hold as Civic Advisor. The various decisions which the Military Governor of Jerusalem has had to give on questions of civic development have been referred to me, and no one under the Public Notice No. 34 of 8 April 191 8 could "demolish, erect, alter, or repair" without first obtain- ing a permit from the Military Governor. These are municipal functions. I had nearly 500 applications through my hands between October 1918 and June 1920. When the permit is granted it becomes the Munici- pality's work to see that it is effectively carried out, and to collect the revenue under the conditions of Turkish law.
It is on the side of the amenities, of the finer civic development, and of archzeology, that the office of the Civic Advisor touches the Pro- Jerusalem Society. All important cases, such as those referred to in Sections 17 and 25, I submitted for the consideration of the Council before taking action upon them. How immensely helpful this has been these records will, I trust, show.
The Arch^ological Needs of THE Holy City
i6. Of the 500 requests for building permits referred to in the pre- ceding section perhaps 25 per cent, have involved questions of archaeology. Many of the requests have been quite trifling, but sometimes the most trifling have had far-reaching civic and archaeological consequences. The David Street Market, to which special reference is made in Section 25 (see Illustration 54), is a case in point. So also is the Park system (Sec- tions 19 to 23), on a portion of which, in the area surrounding the Jaffa Gate, I have already refused some thirty applications to build. Other cases again are those dealt with in Sections 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 9 of these records, and those with which I deal in the ensuing section.
17. The system on which we work at present is that all cases of archaeological importance are presented at the monthly Pro-Jerusalem meetings, and the opinion of the various experts is secured before action is taken. Thus the matter of the saving of the Roman staircase at Siloam (see Illustration 76), dealt with by Pere Vincent in Section 58, was reported on before it was sent up to the Chief Administrator as an infringement of his proclamation (see Appendix VI). In this case the Society conducted the prosecution against a building contractor who had stolen some twenty tons of Roman stonework, which he carried off by night on the backs of donkeys. The man was fined £50, and had to return the stones; but, of course, they could never be put back again into the positions from which they had been taken, and in which the Bliss and Dickie excavations revealed them.
The case of the falling Suqs has been already dealt with in Section 8. This case led to a special report, which I was asked to make for the Chief Administrator, with the object of arranging a loan or grant in aid to the Municipality for the permanent upkeep of the Suqs, together with a property levy.
A good illustration of how the system works is the Hammam el Batrak, the "Bath of the Patriarch," an eighteenth-century Muslim building. A permit had been asked for to repair certain shops in Chris- tian Street (see Illustration 24), and at one of them {b), the old entrance to the Hammam, the stone mastabahs were already being removed and broken up. It appeared, on investigation, that it was proposed to
15
THE ARCH^OLOGICAL NEEDS OF THE HOLY CITY
abandon the bath and construct modern shops upon it. It seemed a pity to do this, at least without reservation, in respect of those portions of the eighteenth-century structure that were most worth saving. A special meeting of the Council was therefore held on the site, and the various schemes considered. It was finally decided that permission should not be given to the owners to remove the bath, and that they should be advised to repair the building for continued use as a bath with shops adjoining. If that were found to be no longer practicable it was intimated that the modified scheme shown in Illustration 24 e and g might be approved for conversion into a cafe of that part of the building most worth preserving, i.e. the large vaulted room (see Illustration 23). This scheme postulated the new shops shown at a a ain the part hatched in the illustration, and a small public garden g. The ruksahs were there- upon issued in the Governor's name.
18. How then shall we determine in the future the archaeological needs of the Holy City .'' On the hypothesis that we shall continue to administer Turkish law, with possible British modification, what ought to be done ?
The Pro-Jerusalem Council has been gradually shaping for itself the
following programme. It will be seen that some of the objects aimed
at are beyond its powers, and need administrative support ; others, of
necessity, have awaited the coming of a permanent civil government : —
(i) Detailed and S3^stematic survey and registration of all historic
monuments in the Kaza of Jerusalem.
(2) The establishment on and through the Council of a body
of opinion guided by men who have not only the technical and archaeological knowledge, but the authority to carry through administratively any policy that has been agreed upon.
(3) The co-ordination, with the aid of the Municipality and such
services as are still in military hands, of the various civic functions that touch archjeology— e.g., the granting of ruksahs, the laying on of water, or the placing of drains in the old city ; the opening out of ancient streets, especially where destroyed by the blizzard of 1920; the repair of the Suqs by means of administrative order, and the levy on property owners ; the making of new roads in the suburbs of Jerusalem, especially where these are on the lines of old Roman roads.
(4) The making of regulations as to movable antiquities, their
finding, safeguarding, or sale, and the unauthorized or illicit digging that may bring them to light.
16
Hammhm el Batrak — The Large Hall.
No. 23.
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THE ARCH^OLOGICAL NEEDS OF THE HOLY CITY
In regard to (i), the survey, much has already been done. It is stored in the Governorate files, of which there are several thousand, or at the Municipality. Large numbers of photographic records have been taken, and plans and drawings made. All this should later on be sys- tematized, and when the actual register of Jerusalem historic monuments is made, it should, if necessary, be incorporated. Such an official survey of "Monuments historiques" is the first thing to be done, and an admini- strative grant should be made for it.
In regard to (2), the composition of the Council is in itself a guarantee for the careful consideration of questions as they arise. All the local archaeologists, and those appointed by the Military Administration, have from time to time served on the Council, and, further, the Council has on it men, such as the Grand Mufti, the Mayor, and the heads of the religious communities, who can give the necessary sanction to its decisions.
That brings us to (3) co-ordination. The weakness of any military regime in civil matters is its inadaptability to civil needs. It can guarantee no continuity ; its judgment in the appointment of officials is often determined by considerations not germane to the appointment, and the personal responsibility of those appointed rests of necessity with the military superior, and not with the man who has to do the job. A military regime, in other words, is concerned, and rightly, with other things. Through the Pro-Jerusalem Council, however, it was often possible to effect co-ordination, and draw together interests that could not in any other ways have been focused upon the amenities of the Holy City.
Lastly, the Council has had, perforce, while awaiting the arrival of a permanent Administration, to consider and solve problems of an archaeological character which would properly be within the province of a Department of Antiquities. The Council may reasonably claim to have earned the gratitude of archaeologists for the action it has taken in the best interests of the historical monuments of Jerusalem. It is now to be anticipated that a permanent department of Palestine antiquities will be instituted, and definite co-ordination established between the activities of the Society and those of the department. The Council will doubtless view this prospect with the greatest satisfaction, especially in view of the additional strength and efficiency which such a combination would give them in their special field.
18
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The Park System
19. Perhaps the greatest need of Jerusalem, after the preservation of its history and the cleaning of its streets, is gardens, shade, and afforestation.
It is said that the city has never recovered the destruction of the timber cut down by Titus in the siege of a.d. 70. The siege of Godfrey de Bouillon nearly failed for want of timber ; and the Turks, though creditable gardeners, never made good the wastage of the end of classic civilization. Professor Geddes, in his report to the Zionist Commission, has some valuable comments, with diagrams, on the question of rainfall and plantation in Palestine. Water and plantation in Jerusalem go hand in hand. They react on one another. Plant trees and you get more rain; store your rainfall in a thirsty land and you can plant your trees. Indeed, the difficulties are enormous; and, so far, they have been too great for us to do much. They are labour, transport, water storage and its applica- tion through the long nine months of drought, and protection from the goat. There are really only two months in each year when planting can be safely done. In the planting season of 191 8-19 the Pro-Jerusalem Society planted about 200 trees. In the season of 1919-20 about 2,000. With proper resources we hope to plant in the city or about it 4,000 annually. It is not the planting that is the difficulty, but the tending (see Section 6).
20. As the Citadel Gardens and the Rampart Walk will be the core of the Jerusalem Park system, this is the proper place to speak of them. The plans shown in Illustrations 25, 26, 21, and 22 explain this. They should be studied in relation to one another. The key plan (Illustra- tion 26) shows the Rampart Walk as the centre of the Park system, the spinal cord on which is to be built the whole series of parks, gardens, and open spaces of which the new city will be composed. To the south- west of this plan is the Citadel. The large plan (Illustration 25) shows the Park system as a whole. It is an attempt to co-ordinate the different areas it is proposed to reserve, and in the centre of which the Holy City is to be set. In this plan the modern building area which lies to the north-east and south is left blank, and only a few salient points are shown. Turning back now to Illustration I {Frontispiece), we see the Citadel enlarged. The Citadel Gardens (Illustrations 27 to 3 1) are to be the entrance to the whole system. The eight areas now being handled are marked around the wall enceinte, beginning at the Citadel area I, and ending at the point where area VIII
19
No. 26.
Key Plan of the Rampart Walk.
I Citadel area.
II Armenian Concent area.
III Zi'on GaU {Bab en Nebi Da-ud) area.
IV Tyropaum.
V Bezetha.
VI Damascus Gate (Bab el Amud) area.
VII New GaU (Bab el Jedid) area.
VIII Jafa GaU (Bab el Khalil) area.
a. home of the Rock.
b. Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
c. Herod's Gate.
d. Pool of Hezekiah.
e. Birket Israel.
i. Birket SiU Miriam.
g. El Aqsa Mosque.
h. David Street.
30
Liiiiu.et Gate — South Terrace.
xVo. 2y.
THE PARK SYSTEM
touches area I after the wall circuit has been made. We approach at the main or eastern entrance of the Citadel over what was once the drawbridge, and near where Lord Allenby made his proclamation on the surrender of the city. The Society proposes to commemorate the spot with an inscription. We then pass southwards by a series of steps, walks, terraces, and plan- tations, laid out in the ancient fosse, about the glacis, and round the various towers, to the Rampart Walk. This walk will ultimately take us right round the city, and bring us out at the Jaffa Gate immediately to the north-west of the Citadel.
The fosse, before the Pro-Jerusalem Society took it in hand, was a public latrine, and, worse, it was a refuse heap for dead carcasses and decomposing matter. The Illustrations 27 to 31 will show into what this has been converted. In the designing of this garden I have followed the architectural lines of the Citadel which it embraces, and every successive point as we reach it is dominated by the solemn masses of the ancient stonework. The trees planted have been olive, fig, eucalyptus, almond, cypress, mimosa, pepper, trumpet-tree, and sumac. All trees will be kept low so as not to interfere with the scale of the buildings. Jackaranda were tried, but the wind and cold destroyed them. The illustrations show a number of other shrubs, plants, etc.
In making this garden I had the assistance of Captain T. B. Mathieson and Sir John Burnet. The latter happened to be in Jerusalem working on the graves memorial when a portion of the south terrace was being laid out. To the former, who was in charge of the Jerusalem police, I am particularly indebted, not only for the unique horticultural know- ledge he placed unreservedly at the Society's disposal, but for his constant and unfailing personal help.
21. The Rampart Walk will be the spinal cord of the Jerusalem Park system. It will, when completed, be the largest, and perhaps the most perfect, mediaeval enceinte in existence. Carcasonne, Chester, Nuremberg, are parallel cases, but none of them comes up to Jerusalem in romantic beauty and grandeur. Some of the main points in the Jerusalem Rampart Walk may be studied in the illustrations here given, and its relation to the Park system as a whole will be best seen in Illustration 25. I will now take the illustrations in order, beginning at the entrance by the Jaffa Gate. Here at the junction of the wall with the fosse a stone stairway has been built to make access possible. The point is just behind the minaret in Illustration I {Frontispiece), and the
21
THE PARK SYSTEM
line of the ramparts may be traced to the right, towards the Armenian quarter of the city.
Illustrations 32 and 33 show the walk by David's Gate and the encroachments made on it by a modern Turkish meat market. This the Society had scheduled for removal, when the act of God, in the form of the blizzard, fortunately came to our aid and broke the roof in.
Illustrations 4 and 5 show gangs of the Society's labourers at work clearing debris from the walk. Some idea of the mass of stuff to be removed may be seen by the height to which it was piled in relation to the figures. In Illustration 5 it comes up nearly to the woman's head. In Illustration 34 a woman is seen at work picking off the great stones of an encroachment that had been built on the walk. She is herself standing on the old city wall.
Illustrations 35 and 36 show another of these encroachments ; it is outside the Spanish Jews' Hospital. Here, again, as the photograph shows (No. 35), a new wall had been built on the top of the ramparts. The pen diagram below (No. 36) shows how this was handled. A is the new wall, B the immense mass of tip on which the new wall was built, and which in places was beginning to burst the rampart wall. C shows the unburied sentinels' walk. In this case the encroachment was not hacked away, but tunnelled, and an arch made over the steps which the excavation revealed. Illustration 37 shows what the work looked like when in progress. The girls are in the pit with their baskets clearing debris. The ink line shows where the arch was subse- quently built and the parapet made good. At E, on the inner side of the wall, where the walk adjoins the public street, it is proposed to plant as shown.
Illustration 38 is interesting as showing the sort of destruction that is in progress. The old walls of the city have been used as quarries, and the massive stones, when loosened from neglect, are carried off. A few thousand pounds to make good these parapet repairs around the city walls are greatly needed.
Illustration 39 shows the end of the walk at the El Aqsa Mosque. We have not for the moment got beyond this point, and it is possible that a way over the wall or on the outside may be better till the walk begins again at the point where it first touches the Temple area on the south side.
22. At this point, as it will when completed become one of the most important features in the Jerusalem Park system, a few words may be 22
THE PARK SYSTEM
said about the Jaffa Gate improvement scheme which the Society is anxious to carry through. It involves —
(a) the removal of the unsightly clock tower and the replacement of the low parapet wall removed shortly before the Kaiser's theatrical entry into Jerusalem ;
{b) the clearing of the fosse, with a possible modification of the levels at this point, and the completing of the garden circuit round the Citadel (see Frontispiece). The suggested com- promise would be a line drawn between the old circuit obliterated by the Turks and the modern road boundary AA.
(f) The opening out of a roadway with a great meidan in front of the Jaffa Gate, and the removal of the market to the other side of the road.
(d) The completion of the Rampart Walk circuit.
Illustrations 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45 show the projected improvement. No. 40 is from a photograph taken in 1898 when the breach was being made. Illustration 41 shows what the fosse may look like when the garden circuit is completed and the glacis again cleared. It is suggested that as much of the road as is needed for traffic be retained, and that to do this the parapet wall when rebuilt be pierced by an arch. The garden circuit would then be completed by a narrow entrance arch at a lower level at the base of the Hippicus Tower. The more archseologically complete way would be to build up the wall again exactly as it was. All the lower portions of the wall are still under the roadway; but the people, having been accustomed for so many years to the double way into the city, might be unwilling to surrender it.
23. It is as yet impossible to give plans of the projected Park system in any detail, and Illustration 25 does not profess to be complete. This, it will be seen, agrees roughly with the part enclosed in the larger blue circuit of the McLean plan (Illustration 21). But if it be compared with the Geddes and the McLean plans, it will be seen that it is an attempt to co-ordinate the two. Most of the contour roads on the Geddes plan are adopted, and the blue zoning or enceinte lines on the McLean plan are shown dotted. All three plans, it will be seen, accept these as dominating factors. Where the Park system (Illustration 25) departs from Nos. 21 and 22 is in the matter of method. The controlling feature here has been the tombs, burial-places, and existing memorials which have been incor- porated into the park. Thus all the Jewish burial-places are shown in circles, the Christian in crosses, and the Muslim in crescents.
23
THE PARK SYSTEM
The laying out or reservation into park land does not necessarily mean special or ornamental plantation. The bulk of the land will, it is hoped, always remain under fellahin tillage or even in its present wildness. It does, however, mean a certain amount of terracing, and the removal of "sebekh" or tip from the valleys to the rock plateaux. Nor does the plan (Illustration 25) show all the parts it is hoped to plant in the city building areas. Most of the streets will be fringed with trees.
Some of the portions of the Park system, besides those already mentioned, to which the Society has turned its attention may be given : —
(a) Avenues along the Jaffa road, and the making good of trees destroyed in the war (h on Illustration 25).
{b) The Post Office Square (see Illustration 25 t and Illustra- tions 46-48).
(c) Plantation around the roads that border the twenty-three acres near the station, known as the McRae estate (Illustration 25 j).
{d) Plantation round the Muslim Cemetery by Herod's Gate (Illustration 25 k).
(e) The garden and district immediately round the Rashidia School (Illustration 25 /).
(/) The Park projected with the assistance of Dr. Ettinger and Mr. Yellin to the north of the city (see Illustration 2^ dab and Illustration 74). The Park system will incorporate and so preserve from needless desecration the ancient Jewish or Grseco-Roman rock-tombs of which it is proposed to make a feature in the Park (see Illustrations 72, 73, 75).
(g) Various small gardens in the old city, some of them in private ownership. In the latter case the trees are given on the understanding that they are planted according to the wishes of the Society and protected by the owners.
24
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Citadel Gardens.
No. JO.
Citadel Gardens,
No. SI.
The Rampart JValk, showing how a rooj has been built over the walk which follows the arrows.
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7"/?^ Rampart Walk.
No. 34.
The Rampart JFalk, showi^ig a woman clearing azvay an encroachment.
A'o. 35-
The Rampart Walk covered with 12 ft. of "tip,'' and shozving a new wall built on top of the "tip.
iT^^
No. 36.
The Rampart Walk, showing how the encroachment (No. 3S) has been tunnelled.
I i D,
The Rampart Walk, the same as No. 56, showing fellahin girls at work.
A. New wall built on the tip.
B. Tip.
C. Rampart Walk newly cleared.
D. Old city wall.
E. Nezv garden being, tnadr.
> VV«
m
No. 38.
The Rampart Walk, showing tlie gradual destruction of the wall of Sulrinian the Magnificent.
.\0. 3Q.
The Rampart Il'alk at the El Aqsa Mosque.
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No. 46.
The Markets
24. The question of the Jerusalem markets is one sui generis. It involves considerations of religious custom and law, of hygiene, and of archaeology. In some cases these are curiously interwoven.
The Society working in collaboration with the Municipality and the Department of Public Health prepared a report on the market needs of the city, in which certain principles were drawn up which it was decided to apply to six markets to begin with. It is unnecessary here to go into the details, and the plan, if consistently carried out, will involve the expenditure of a large sum of money and the enforcement of sanitary and municipal orders of great consequence to the city.
Of these six markets illustrations are given of two, one in the old city. No. 52 and 54, and one in the new. No. 49 and 50. We will deal with the latter first, because it illustrates the horrible conditions of dis- order, slovenliness, and squalor with which the Administration has to deal. It is the market in the Jaffa road to the north-east of the city, sometimes known as Haim Valero, or Mahanna Yudah. The row of corrugated iron shacks and petrol tins, of which it is mostly constructed, is one of the first landmarks as we enter the Holy City from the Jaffa side. It expresses for the visitor the New Jerusalem as left us by the Turk. The drawing which accompanies the photograph shows what we hope to make of the market, screened from the road by trees. Here, as in other cases, the desire of the sanitary authority is to control the market in the interest of public health. To achieve this control it must have definite boundaries, and be so constructed as to make the enforcement of certain regulations possible.
25. The David Street Market, shown in Illustrations 52, 53, 54, is the picturesque Vegetable Market in the ancient city, so much admired by all lovers of local colour, because of the richness of costume of the peasant women who gather together here from the neighbouring villages, bringing fruit in their colour-plaited straw baskets. It is held under the arches of the mediaeval buildings that once formed part of or adjoined the foundation of the Knights Hospitallers in the Mauristan (see Sections 65, 66, 67). An application was made to me on one occasion for closing the arcades with a view to converting them into storerooms. To grant this ruksah would have meant not only interfering with the structure of the buildings, but with the market rights of the community. The whole
26
Post Office Square, before treatmejit.
No. 47.
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No. 48.
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The Jaffa Road Market
{Haim Valero or Mahanna Yudah)
as proposed.
a. Shops.
b. Central Sibil or Fountain.
c. Entrances.
C RASHBEE
No. 51.
d. Stalls under cover.
e. Jaffa Road.
27
THE MARKETS
matter was gone into, with the result that a larger scheme for the develop- ment of the market is now under consideration. This is best studied in Illustration 54. a is David Street ; c shows the Vegetable Market, to the left as it is at present, to the right as we hope to make it. At present it has only two arches to the street, and at the back all the arches are blocked up with debris. Five arches will be opened out at the back, and the mass of debris {d) will be cleared away, while two arches will be opened out into David Street {a). Thus abundance of light and shade will be given to the market, which is at present dark and ill-ventilated. Under the newly opened arches between d and d will be seen the little garden at g, the planting of which has already been commenced. The remaining bases of the old arcades, which are no longer standing, but for the most part covered in debris, were located by the Palestine Survey, as shown in g and h. Some of the arches in h are still visible, though a portion of one of the northern arches collapsed in the blizzard of 1920 (see Illustration 55).
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The David Street Market.
On the left as it is : on the right as it is
to be.
a. David Street.
b. Suq el Lehan.
c. Vegetable Market.
d. Strip of land at back of market covered
with debris.
e. Shops. {. Khan.
g. Excavated portion now again covered with debris upon which a garden is being made.
h. Modern German building in which the ex- cavated work has been incorporated.
\. Restored Church of St. John.
}. New German street.
29
New Industries
26. The Pro-Jerusalem Society has established two new industries in the city, and is trying to start a third — weaving, tile-making, and, if the present negotiations come to fulfilment, glass-work. These industries are in the nature of revivals rather than of new undertakings. They have each to do with local life, and are implicit in the ancient traditions of the city, its structure, and its crafts. To these three industries encouraged by the Society must, of course, be added building and planting ; for though the two latter ceased entirely during the war, except for military purposes, the traditions of local craftsmanship had not to be laboriously reconstructed as in the case of weaving, tile- making, and glass-work.
27. I deal with the weaving industry first. During the war the American Red Cross instituted some admirable relief works among the refugees, mainly Armenian, of whom there were many hundreds in Jerusalem. Instead of giving doles it set up looms; it started the refugees at doing useful work with which they were familiar — weaving, spinning, etc. It seemed a pity to break the organization up when the Red Cross was demobilized, so the Society worked out a scheme for taking this over and running it as a permanent industry for the city. But a place had to be found. It was decided, therefore, to take over and restore the ancient Suq el Qattanin (the old Cotton Market), to which reference has already been made in Section 9.
When the Pro-Jerusalem Society started upon this noble monument it was, like many another in the city, a public latrine, the shops were filled with ordure, and the debris in some cases was lying five foot high. The picturesque doors shown in Illustration 18, the photograph for which was taken in 1913, had been broken up and used for firewood by the Turks. The Society remade them, and is at present engaged in repairing the great chamber, shown in Illustration 57, in which is a fourteenth-century inscription (see also Section 70). In and adjoining this portion of the building, as will be seen in No. 57, was a flour-mill, whose 20 h.p. engine was gradually shaking the ancient masonry out of place. This the Society had removed.
When the building was put in order looms were set up, and the weavers and spinners still at work for the American Red Cross were engaged and put under the charge of the present manager of the industry, which is now known as the "Jerusalem Looms." In this industry, at the close
30
NEW INDUSTRIES
of the first year's working, about seventy people were employed directly or indirectly. The industry is self-supporting, and not financed by the Society ; £200 was, however, advanced at five per cent, by the Society, and the looms are its property. Further, the Society has given assis- tance, with the financial aid of the Administration, in the teaching of their craft to the boys, who are almost entirely Muslim. It has started a system of indentured apprenticeship (see Appendix IV), helps the lads with apprentice scholarships, and pays the wages of their technical instructor (see Illustration 62).
28. The revived industry of tile-making stands on a different footing from that of weaving. It is interesting to note that whereas in the industry of weaving it was originally Armenian relief money that has resulted in employing Muslim workers to the general public benefit, so to the same end it is in the industry of tile-making and painting that Muslim Wakf funds have been the cause of employing Armenian workers. We hope that Muslim workers will follow, but we must take conditions as we find them, and use skill, knowledge, and sympathy wherever we meet with them. Weaving is more frequently a Muslim, tile-making almost entirely an Armenian, craft. There is no reason why either should be limited by race, religion, or tradition. The Armenian weavers have now for the most part returned to Armenia, but owing to the great works on the Dome of the Rock, further tile-painters have asked leave to come from Armenia to Jerusalem.
Reference to Mr. Ernest Richmond's report already quoted (Sec- tion 10) will show that the damage in the mere falling off of tiles, and the disintegration of the wall surface from soakage of water through the building, could be estimated at hundreds of pounds a year, and that in increasing ratio. But there was no money. The Wakf funds in 19 18 were not available. What was to be done ? The Pro-Jerusalem Society here again stepped into the breach, and did what the Administration for the moment was unable to do. It advanced out of funds which the personal energy and enthusiasm of the Military Governor had collected the necessary money for the preliminary needs of Mr. Richmond's report. Money for scaffolding, labour payments, photographic and other records were placed at Mr. Richmond's disposal, thus enabling him to create a system of repair that might become permanent.
In the course of Mr. Richmond's investigations the original furnaces were rediscovered in the area of the Haram-es-Sherif, so it was decided to reopen them and make trial firings. The first firings were a dismal
31
NEW INDUSTRIES
failure, and the two expert potters, one from Kutahia and one from Damascus, differed as to the reasons for this. The Society had by this time advanced some £230, so the drastic course was taken of discharging them both. One of the potters, Mr. David Ohanessian, then came forward with the offer of partly capitalizing the industry, provided he were allowed the use of the old furnaces and given facilities to go to his home in Kutahia and bring back at his own charges his workpeople, plant, and materials. This has been done ; the Administration found means for getting him through to Constantinople, and, later, of con- veying a body of his workpeople — men, women, and children — from Kutahia to Jerusalem, and after some four months of fresh experiment and hard work, tiles were produced which compared very favourably with some of the early tile-work on the Dome, and certainly exceeded in beauty and skill the later European factory production with which for the last fifty years the Dome has been repaired.
It was recommended, therefore, that a contract should be entered into between the Wakf Administration and Mr. Ohanessian for the permanent establishment of the industry. An agreement was drawn up by the Wakf with Mr. Ohanessian, wherein, subject to certain conditions, the Pro-Jerusalem Society guaranteed the latter's financial stability, and the Wakf found £700 to enable him to continue and develop his work. At the same time the Wakf repaid to the Society the original £230 it had advanced, thus enabling the money to be used again in other new and creative work.
It is the hope of the Council that even as we have established out of the weaving industry a little textile school for the city of Jerusalem, so out of the tile-work we shall in like manner establish a school of ceramics. All the necessary elements are now there. The Syrian potter, with his fine skill and his immemorial tradition (see Illustration 58), is one of the central facts of Eastern life. He needs encouragement, and will repay it.
29. We will pass to the industry of glass-blowing. There are, in the Jerusalem district, especially at Hebron, the remains of one of the most beautiful and characteristic of Muslim crafts. Illustrations 59, 60, 61, show these glass-blowers and their work. According to tradition this craft of lamp-making for mosques, etc., was practised in ancient times, not only by Muslims, but also by Jewish workmen under protection of the Khalifs. Certain it is that there are many technical records and remains. The old man shown in Illustration 60 is himself a Hebron
32
A'o. 55-
Fallen arcade in the Maiinstan.
So. ji3.
SCiq el Qatlanin, from the street, JVest Entrance.
Sitq el Oattanin — in the great chamber of Muhammad an-Ndsir, J.D. IS36.
Syrian poUer.
No. 5tV.
Ili'hriin ;^/ays-i)iakers at zi'ork.
No. 59.
A'o. 60.
Hebrov glass-:vorker in his shop in Jrrusalrm.
No. 61.
4 Hebron bine glass.
so
j-1
o
NEW INDUSTRIES
glass-blower, but prefers to spend the evening of his days in reading the Koran at his shop door, in the Mauristan, and selling occasional glass beads and bangles. On the other hand, the Hebron workshops exist. Their record during and for a few years before the war is rather pathetic ; it is typical of the influence of Western industrialism upon Eastern craftsmanship. Modern industrial conditions reduced thirty-two shops to seven, and the war closed these remaining seven. One was reopened in 1919, and again closed owing to the difficulty of getting wood for firing. On looking into matters I found masses of debris from cheap machine-made lamps littering the Hebron shops, and on inquiry learned that the glass-blowers had given up using their own good quartzy Hebron sand because it was cheaper to use the v/aste product of English factories. It had come over as ballast of ships. As a consequence the glass now made is soft and brittle, and often pitted with holes. The effort of the Society here, as with the textiles and the ceramics, will be to raise the standard, to lift the old craft out of the industrial mire, to make things of real service, not merely knick-knacks for tourists, or the last degraded relics in coloured bangles and beads for poverty-stricken peasants. Arrangements for a contract with some of the old glass- blowers are now in progress. We are planning to set certain of the shops in the Suq el Qattanin (see Illustration 17) at their disposal. At the same time it is proposed to open one at least of the old Hebron work- shops. The method will probably be some sort of guarantee by the Society for the sale of, say, a year's produce from the shops, certain conditions as to standard and the forms to be adopted being laid down at the outset. But there are difficulties. These old Hebron craftsmen are dour and farouche. It is part of their charm. They are as tough in their old-fashioned Islamism as in their retention to themselves alone of the secrets of their craft. In some cases they will not even teach it to their own sons for fear it might be too widely known !
30. It is unnecessary here to allude to the industries of building, masonry, the planting of trees and laying out of gardens, all of which are helped by the Society, as special reference is made to these crafts in Sections 6, 8, 9, 15, 20, 21, 23.
Other industries that the Society hopes either to revive or to estab- lish on a basis of good standard are carpet-weaving, metal-work, cabinet- making. No work worth mentioning is done in any of these, unless we except the quasi-sectarian efforts of Bezaleel and the Syrian orphanage. Yet good serviceable furniture, ordinary table-service in metal-work,
E 33
NEW INDUSTRIES
rugs and carpets, and the various appliances for the house, are just as necessary as textiles, glass, and pottery. There is no reason why they should not also be made in Palestine and have on them the character of the locality. In the list of desiderata the Society has drawn up, and which I give in Appendix III, will be found references to these new industries. We want help for them. The decay of good craftsmanship and what it means to the city is aptly illustrated in No. 65 and No. 66. The former is a good bit of Jerusalem eighteenth-century carpenter's work, the latter its modern substitute.
This re-establishment of the crafts, even if looked at merely from the political point of view, is of vital importance in Palestine. As a great Syrian once put it, with the craftsmen of Jerusalem in mind, "Without them shall no city be inhabited, and men shall not sojourn nor walk up and down therein. They shall not be sought for in the council of the people, and in the assembly they shall not mount on high . . . neither shall they declare instruction and judgment, and where parables are shall they not be found. But they shall maintain the fabric of the world ; and in the handiwork of their craft is their prayer."
Work with the hands, the creative work, the work of the imagina- tion applied to a man's personal labour, keeps men from empty political speculation. For every craftsman we create, we create also a potential citizen; for every craftsman we waste, we fashion a discontented effendi.
34
Technical Education
31. The industry or craft brings us to Technical Education in the craft. The Administration as regards the city has turned the technical education grant over to the Society ; £200 was granted for the year 1918-19, and £300 for the year 1919-20. The Society has supplemented these grants, and laid down the policy that shall guide their adminis- tration. The smallness of the grants has limited our activities, but this policy may be here defined : It is (a) to help for the present, and until more money is available, only such technical teaching as is implicit with the agricultural development of the Jerusalem area, e.g., planting and gardening, and the crafts that go with a life on the land ; (b) to teach from the point of view of the industry or craft, rather than that of the classroom; in other words, to bring the school into the workshop, and not, as is usually done, the workshop into the school.
The Society's work of technical education has, therefore, been to appoint a skilled gardening instructor and place in his charge the planting of the trees and gardens of the city, more especially those from which the boys of a certain number of schools may most benefit. Further, it has appointed a skilled weaving instructor in whose charge are the looms in the Suq el Qattanin already referred to (Section 9), weaving being an integral part of the agricultural life of Palestine.
32. In regard to the tree-planting and gardening, the idea is to make the boys responsible, and teach them to take a pride in the city's upkeep. Each lad is given the care of a tree that he has helped to plant. A garden and a small nursery have been put at the disposal of the instructor at the Rashidia School by Herod's Gate, and some 200 Muslini boys are benefiting by this arrangement.
33. In regard to the weaving craft, a method has been adopted even more conducive to standard and quality. To begin with, a dozen — at the time of writing, eighteen — boys have been bound as indentured apprentices to the Society's weaving industry. The indenture itself is given in Appendix IV, and should be studied as a useful working model for new enterprise in technical education. It is of interest to note that it follows the Samuel Montagu (Lord Swaythling's) East London Ap- prenticeship Fund, under which many excellent craftsmen of the Guild of Handicraft were bound in the late 'nineties. The Pro-Jerusalem Society and the Military Governor as its president take the place of
35
TECHNICAL EDUCATION
Lord Swaythling as third signatorJ^ Of the two Illustrations, No. 62 and No. 63, the former shows the apprentices in their uniforms, the latter the ceremony of apprenticeship in the central arcade of the Suq el Qattanin. The Military Governor is making a speech in Arabic and English, the Grand Mufti is to his right, and the boys are about to be called up and given each, for his parent or guardian, who is also present, a copy of the indenture. The text of the speech is in the main the first clause of the indenture ; as our forefathers in Western indentures would have had it : " Thou shalt not put the craft to shame."
36
No. 64. Dome construction in Jerusalem.
No. 65.
A Jerusalem carpenter's window.
No. 66.
Its modern substitute.
Relief labour at work in the Citadel clearings.
Prisoners shiftitig large stones in the Citadel.
No. 68.
<
o
o
<5
Civic Regulations
34. The Pro-Jerusalem Council has done valuable work in the direction of civic regulations. In this it has had the aid of the Munici- pality and the Jerusalem Chamber of Commerce. Thus it has effectively checked the unrestrained use of corrugated iron. This is now forbidden in the old city, and can only be used in the new city if screened from view. The same applies, though less rigidly, in regard to red tiles. The use of these in the old city, except in the case of repairs, is no longer permitted, while the old method of dome construction has been en- couraged, and in many places revived (see Illustration 64). Illustra- tions 13, 32, 49, show cases in which the Society has either prevented the use of corrugated iron and red tiles, or is in process of removing them.
35. The limitation of advertisement is an urgent need. The pro- miscuous placarding and profanation of every conspicuous wall-surface must at all hazards be stopped. The Society, therefore, drew up for and in conjunction with the municipal authorities the series of regulations which are given in Appendix VII, an appropriation was made for them in the municipal budget of 1920, and they have since been incorporated in the legislation of the country.
36. To the Society's work in the regeneration of the markets refer- ence has already been made in Sections 24 and 25. Not In the markets only, but in many other instances it has acted, usually through the office of the Civic Advisor, as the link between the Municipalitj^, or the Service of Antiquities in embryo, and the Department of Public Health. One of the tragedies of the city is that where an ancient building has been neglected, or a site, especially after excavation, becomes derelict, it becomes unsanitary. The Societ)^ has been the means for bringing before the Department of Public Health a number of beautiful or historically Interesting sites, public monuments, and houses which, with a little timely supervision from the sanitary point of view, it has been possible to save or protect.
37. This raises an important civic issue, and one that the Society has on several occasions had before it, and Is gradually solving by prac- tical experiment. What Is to be done with a site after the archaeologist has dug it over and left it .'' The archaeologist is not interested in the city as a live thing. For him the more dead and buried the better. He digs, makes his records, and goes away, leaving usually an untidy
37
CIVIC REGULATIONS
mess for others to clear up. There are a number of such sites in Jeru- salem. There are likely, with the increasing desire for historical dis- covery, to be many more. Nature's solution is simple. The derelict site is first well dunged by children and animals; it then breeds flies and mosquitoes, after which, if it has the sun upon it, follow crops of Ficus indica and thistles. Some more rational and civilized method of recla- mation seems desirable; for, after all, the city is alive, not dead.
38. In Mr. Storrs' preface it has already been pointed out how the Pro-Jerusalem Society in its initiation was " the Military Governor civically and aesthetically in Council"; the original name under which the records of the Society were filed in the Governorate archives was "The City Council." This quality of an Upper Chamber to the Muni- cipality, a kind of Senate whose duty it has been to safeguard the finer life of the Holy City, it has tried consistently to maintain. Many types of city regulations have had, and are likely to continue to have, their origin in the monthly discussions of the Pro-Jerusalem Council. It is a place where ideas are made. The Council does not necessarily put them into force. It serves the often more useful purpose of inspiring them.
38
Social Work
39. It is inevitable that the Society in its many undertakings should have touched the social life of the city, its labour problems, and what in Jerusalem is so intimately bound up with this, its religious and sectarian structure. A word as to these may not be out of place here.
The Society has had for its public works the use of three types of labour — relief or refugee labour, paid on a minimum-wage basis ; prison labour, working under guard; and skilled or partially skilled labour, working on contract or at market rates.
Illustrations 67, 4, 5, show the first, the relief or refugee labour. Most of the Citadel clearings and the work on the Rampart Walk were done by refugees. It will be seen that they are almost entirely women, for in the East it is the women rather than the men who do work of this kind. The women are mostly of great strength, they are accustomed to carrying weights upon their heads, and they are very skilful with the "fass " or pick. Where, as has often been the case, they are mothers with small children, a sort of impromptu creche has been formed in some adjoining field or yard under one of their number. This relief labour has been found to be very variable, and, of course, it is liable to stop suddenly when the desired moment comes for return to the "beled," or when the husband, who has often been impressed by the Turk, returns from war or from captivity.
40. Prison labour, of which an illustration is given in No, 68, is still less satisfactory. This has always to be conducted under guard, and in addition a sympathetic foreman is needed. Prisoners have been used for cleaning out unsavoury sites, carrying and breaking stone, and water- ing trees. It is very extravagant, for it takes up so much of the highly paid foreman's time, and the guard requires almost as much watching as the prisoners, for it increases his difficulties if he is a task-master. For him it is better and easier if the prisoners sleep. At present no pay- ment to convicts is allowed, and the theory is that their work shall be made as unpleasant as possible. But this raises an interesting point in prison psychology, and one that deserves greater attention than it receives. I have observed in watching these gangs under one or other of my foremen that the men often really enjoy the work. It is a change from the boredom of prison. If some system could be devised by which some payment could be made to each gang, not as wages for labour, but as a recognition for services rendered if the work is good, I believe that
39
SOCIAL WORK
four times the amount of labour would be given; for, with some excep- tions, the convict really wants to work: it is the enforcement he resents. I think such a recognition of service would be good, not only for the city, but for the man himself.
41. The Society's skilled labour, paid from its own funds, has been that of masons, blacksmiths, gardeners, fellahin women labourers, and its regular foremen. This has conformed to market rates, and has been divided fairly evenly over the three religious groups, Muslim, Christian, and Jew. It is hoped that as the works of the Society and, ultimately, the city develop, some form of guild organization may be adopted. By this is meant responsibility for standard among the workers, and non- competitive organization in the interests of the craft. The sectarian divisions of the city would help rather than hinder this. Of the Municipal Labour Bureau use has often been made. This should, wherever possible, be developed, and the various religious relief funds utilized wherever this can be done in getting people to work. Any form of civic reconstruction is worth trying, and even the humblest skill should be made use of; for the curses of Jerusalem are idleness and parasitism. The city has been accustomed to live on the unreasoning charity of the world. Chris- tian, Muslim, and Jew, all alike have taken the doles of the faithful; and instead of these doles being devoted to the upkeep and ennoblement of the Holy City, they resulted in a rather sordid life among the citizens. Modern Jerusalem is a mixture of squalor and pretentiousness. This fund of charity is likely to continue. There is no reason, however, why it should any longer be used to corrupt, to vulgarize, or to degrade. The Pro-Jerusalem Society would wish to see it employed, unless for the definite relief of sickness, in the betterment of the city, for that also implies the ennoblement of the citizen.
42. The Society was asked if it would aid the organization of the "Girl Guides" — perhaps the title "Girl Scouts" sometimes used is more explanatory of the objects — and a sum of £10 was set apart for the purpose, subject to the provision that a uniform be worn, and that certain general principles of conduct and order should be conformed to. The idea was to help instil in the children what is so wanting at present, a civic consciousness — or shall we say conscience? — a sense of trust in the beauty of the city.
40
Finance
43. Whence have come the resources for these many undertakings ? And how are they to be provided in the future ? It is not unfair to say that they have been found almost entirely by the personal enthusiasm of Colonel Storrs, the Military Governor of Jerusalem. The Administra- tion and the Municipality have aided with subsidies, but the original moneys have been gifts from individuals who were led by the personal magnetism of the Military Governor to help the realization of a great cause. The Holy City is for the world at large, not for any sect, creed, or race. That is the motive of Pro-Jerusalem, and whomever that motive touches, to him the direct appeal is made.
44. The list of subscribers, who are also members of the Society, during the three years 1918-19-20, given below (Appendix II), is evidence of how wide the net is spread, and also of the generosity of the donors. In all nearly £5,000 has been subscribed, and it may be said to have been allocated on the Society's various undertakings, roughly, as follows : —
Repairs of the Suq el Qattanin £1,000
Weaving enterprise 250
Dome of the Rock repairs 250
Citadel cleaning 200
Citadel Gardens 500
Rampart Walk 500
Children's Playground 100
Park and Garden system 200
Town Plan and City Survey expenses 250
Registration of monuments, archaeological work
and records 200
Museum 100
Technical Education 300
General expenses, not allocable over the above. . . 350
The balance of £800 may be regarded as available cash. The items are given roughly only, as salaries and wages have been allocated in proportion to the time spent on each item.
45. A monthly financial statement is presented to each Council meeting by Mr. John Whiting, the Hon. Treasurer, who took office after the resignation of Captain Harari, the late Financial Adviser of the
F 41
FINANCE
Alilitary Governor. Much of the Society's early achievement is due to liis care and forethought, and this is perhaps a fitting place for some slight recognition of what he did for the Society in its most difficult and uncertain days.
46. The finding of money for the future must depend on what form the Society itself takes in the new civil administration. The question is largely political, and does not concern us here. This record is one of actual fact of what has been done under British Military Administration.
Two things, however, may be postulated : —
(i) Future revenue is likely to be drawn from the tourist and the pilgrim as of old. The fund of charity, to which reference was made in Section 41, will continue. The test of wise administration will be to show how far it can be better employed to general rather than sectarian benefits. Also those who love the Holy City enough to give something towards its ennoblement have yet to learn that the Society, being of all creeds and races, stands for a wider because a non-sectarian charity.
(2) Some of the Society's revenue is already recurrent. That is to say, some of the Society's money has been invested in the amenities and bears return. For example, the Society already draws rents from repaired buildings and shops, receives interest from the capital invested in the weaving industry, and takes payment for the education services it renders to the Administration; also its trees will have timber value in the future. All such forms of income could be increased. Further, there are manj'^ other of the Society's undertakings, e.g., the gardens, the walk round the city walls, the historic monuments it preserves, which could be made to yield revenue. What is needed is a stable government, firmness, sympathy, and imagination.
C. R. AsHBEE, M.A. Cantab., F.R.I.B.A.,
Member of the Town Planning Institute, Civic Advisor to the City of Jerusalem.
42
No. 70.
The JVailing JJ all, slwzvmg the Ilerodian courses {with modern Hebrew inscriptions on the bottom), upon them post-Titus work, with the Muslim courses of smaller masonry above the scaffolding.
(Note the trees in the u'lill. Jlebnw inscription.! are only on the bottom three courses ; above these to the scaffold are Roman, post-Titus.)
Tombs of " The Kings.''''
Xo. 7/.
Desecrated Jewish rock-tomh, Dabbet er Risclit
{The entrance is below the arrow.)
No. 72.
Skelch oj its condition made in igio by Pere Finceni
No. 75.
Les Restes de la Civilisation Israelite proteges par la societe
47. Le Mur des Pleurs {Wailing Wall). — L'enceinte ouest de Tes- planade du Temple donne sur I'ancienne vallee du Tyropoeon qui d'ici se continue du sud jusqu'au Siloe par la porte des Moghrebins. Les Juifs qui vont pleurer centre ces restes de I'antique mur le designe sous Ic nom du Kotel ha-Ma'arabi (mur de I'ouest). Sa partie visible a 28 metres de longueur et environ 3 m. 60 de largeur sans compter les parties qui sont dissimulees par des constructions arabes, ce qui ferait une longueur totale de 48 metres. Sa hauteur totale est de 18 metres, mais il emerge du sol a 7 m. 70 au dessous du niveau de I'esplanadc du Temple et, en outre, on constate dans le sous-sol 19 assises de pierres qui continuent le mur jusqu'a ses fondements inferieurs.
D'une fa^on generate on pent diviser l'enceinte dans sa partie visible en trois sections distinctes qui sont superposces Tune sur I'autre.
A. Partie Israelite certaine {v. Illustration 70). — II s'agit des
neuf assises inferieures qui sont caracterisees par I'emploi de gros blocs non tallies, a peine decoupes dans les extre- mites et qui sont ranges les uns sur les autres d'une fa^on inegale, sans avoir jamais ete enduit avec du ciment ou a la chaux.(i) Plusieurs de ces blocs ont jusqu'a 5 metres de long. On attribue generalement cette partie du mur a I'epoque de Herode. Seulement, dans le fond de ce genre de construction on retrouve une architecture Israelite antique qui a ete observe sur de nombreux points et qui consiste a imiter la grotte naturelle, qui formait la base des habitations primitives. Entre autres, on devait s'abstenir de I'usage du fer pour toute mises en construction des pierres destinees a un sanctuaire.(2)
B. Une deuxieme couche de pierres qui est superposee sur la
premiere est composee de quatre assises de blocs plus
(i) Je me reserve de traiter plus tard des restes de I'ancien mur qu'on reconnail sur plusieurs points de l'enceinte actuelle de Jerusalem, grace aux immenses blocs nou tallies qu'on y rencontre. On en voit au nord, aux angles sud-ouest, comme a I'arche dite de Wilson et surtout dans le pont dit de Robinson qui contient des parties plus anciennes que I'epoque de Herode. II en est de meme pour les substructions de I'esplanade du Temple.
(2) Ch. Exode XX, 25 etc.
43
LES RESTES DE LA CIVILISATION ISRAELITE
ordinaires d'environ yi m. de long ; elle atteste une origine romaine ou byzantine {v. Illustration 70). C. Quant a la partie superieure qui compte en tout 11 assises elle est construite de petites pierres et est posterieure au XIP slecle. Les rangees superieures datent meme du XIX^ siecle.
Le Mur des Pleurs est le centre prefere du pelerinage juif de tous les pays et de tous les siecles jusqu'au moyen- age le plus recule. L'usage de venir pleurer sur les ruines du Temple est mentionne par les Peres de rEglise.(i) Le Talmud confirme la croyance que la "Gloire de Jehova bannie des Saints des Saints" se serait refugie sur le mur de I'ouest, ce qui lui confere un caractere sacre tout special (2) en signe de deuil on ne devrait y rien changer jusqu'au jour de la Restoration du Temple.
C'est le Vendredi, le Samedi et les jours des grandes fetes legales et surtout le 9"^ jour du mois d'Ab (date de la destruction du Temple) qu'ont lieu pres du mur des ser- vices reguliers. La coutume, ainsi que le rituel des prieres speciales, n'ont pas varie, du molns depuis le XIP siecle. (3)
Sous le regime Turc la communaute juive avait par- ticipe aux frais du nettoyage des environs du mur. Aux debuts de 1920 la Societe a demande de lui presenter un rapport sur les reparations relatives au Aiur des Pleurs.
48. La Tour dite de David {v. Illustrations 3 et 29). — Le nettoyage et le deblaiement faits par la Societe comprennent egalement la Tour dite de David. Cette Tour avec I'ensemble des constructions qui I'en- vironnent se trouve sur I'emplacement du Palais de Herode.
On considere toutefois, etant donnees les dimensions que Josephe attribue a la Tour Phazael (90 coudees sur 40) (4), que c'est cette derniere qui se trouve dans la base de la Tour actuelle. La derniere reconstruc- tion de la Tour comme du fort tout entier date de Souleiman II.
(i) Saint Jerome, Discours, II, Saint Nazlanze et d'autres.
(2) La Mishna interdit de modifier I'aspect des sanctuaires en ruines et meme d'en arracher les herbes afin de conserver leur etat de ruines a relever.
(3) Benjamin de Tudele, Itineraire (ecrit vers 11 70).
(4) Guerres des Juifs, V, 4.
44
LES RESTES DE LA CIVILISATION ISRAELITE
On constate d'un cote de la Tour de David des assises de blocs non tallies qui s'elevent du sol sur une hauteur de 12 metres, et qui attestent une origine herodienne peu modifiee depuis. C'est dans le sous-sol forme de debris qu'on devrait chercher des fondements de I'antique batiment comme aussi I'entree principale qui se trouve sans doute ensevelie profondement sous le niveau actuel du sol. Des travaux de deblaiement en cet endroit seraient riches en resultats. II faut feli- citer la Societe des nettoyages auxquels elle avait deja procede et qui augmentent I'attrait de cet endroit si pittoresque de la Ville Sainte.
49. Le Mont de Sion (v. Illustration 25 m). — En entreprenant des travaux de nettoyage et de deblaiement pres de la Porte de Nebi-Daoud la Societe touchait de pres le Mont de Sion. En outre, dans le rapport qui a ete presente par M. le Conseiller Civique sur les dommages occa- sionnes par la Tempete de 1920 on a tenu compte du fait de la demolition des murs qui entourent ce mont.
Loin de nous de chercher a engager une nouvelle discussion au sujet de I'authenticite de la tradition qui consiste a placer le mont de Sion de la Bible sur la colline sud-ouest de la ville, bien que Josephe semble s'y preter en quelque sorte.(i) Cette tradition les Chretiens I'ont connue depuis le IV" siecle; quant aux Juifs, un voyageur le signale vers Fan 1002.(2)
Le voyageur Benjamin de Tudele (vers 1160) donne comme auteur de la decouverte de la pretendue Tombe de David un certain Abraham el Constantini qui I'aurait retrouve vers 1145. Les Juifs se rendent en pelerinage sur la Tombe dite de David le lendemain de la fete de Shabouoth (des Semaines).
50. Tombeau de Simeon le Juste {v. Illustration 25). — Je considere que le moyen le plus elhcace de preserver les hypogees qui sont venerees par les Juifs serait de les englober dans le systeme des pares proposes par M. le Conseiller Civique, tout en respectant les traditions et les coutumes juives relatives au pelerinage. Voici, d'ailleurs, la description de ces tombeaux.
(i) Antiquites Juives, XVI, 7. (2) V. A. Harkavy.
45
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DU NORD
C'est en suivant la route qui mene de la Porte de Herode vers le nord-ouest qu'on rencontre un groupe de grottes taillees dans les rives pierreuses et escarpees de I'ouady el Djoz. Parmi ces grottes, deux sont decrites par le R. P. Vincent (i) dans son rapport de 4 Decembre 1919 au Conseiller Civique (v. "g" sur le plan (Illustration 25) et Illustra- tions 72, 73, et 75).
La photographie Illustration 72 presente I'etat actuel de la fagade.
Le schema Illustration 73, pris sur un croquis sommaire, donne I'etat en 1910.
Voici le texte du rapport du savant Pere :
" Le second hypogee est situe environ 250 metres plus au nord et s'ouvre au niveau actuel du sol environnant, juste au bord du chemin moderne. L'entree, beaucoup plus monumentale que dans le tombeau precedent, est decoree dans un style composite caracteristique de I'epoque judeo- romaine. II est regrettable qu'un amateur de " souvenirs " ait pratique une entaille dans la frise qui couronne I'entablement, pour detacher un fragment de la rangee d'oves, perles et olives sculptee dans ce corps de moulures. II n'est pas invraisemblable que I'auteur de cette petite
(i) Dans la region septentrionale de la ville, au lieu dit Dabbet er Rish, a la nais- sance de I'ouady el Djoz, se trouvent deux remarquables hypogees juifs de I'epoque herodienne situes a proximite du chemin moderne passant un peu a I'orient de la colonic juive. Le premier de ces monuments, creuse dans une grande parol de roc, environ 20 metres a I'ouest du chemin, comprenait naguere deux salles spacieuses. Son entree etait ornee d'un encadrement aux lignes tres sobres, surmonte d'un tympan moulure, maladroitement brise de vieille date deja. L'interet particulier de cette facade fune- raire etait d'offrir une courte inscription en lettres hebraiques anciennes donnant le nom du titulaire de I'hypogee et par ailleurs d'une reelle valeur paleographique ; etant donne la rarete des inscriptions hebraiques d'epoque herodienne. Nous avons eu le regret de constater que cette tombe, encore accessible en 1914, avait ete transformee en cloaque et totalement obstruee par les plus malsaines immondices apportees journellement de la colonic juive voisine. — P. V.
47
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DU NORD
mais cependent facheuse mutilation soit ce meme SnIK" Israel, qui a grave son nom sur le listel juste au-dessous de la regrettable et recente cassure, dans la situation que montre le sommaire diagramme Illustration 75.
T3i" i-jiii' Hill' Lljiiii' ur iJiir~aF
LM' Lll!' Ui" ' LJIH nw
jmmmsm:
^ FbRTE
No. 7S.
"M. le Conseiller Civique estime que le moyen le plus efficace de
proteger ces hypogees, apres les avoir nettoyees, serait de les englober
dans le systeme des pares et jardins projetes pour la ville. Le plan qu'il
a bien voulu elaborer sera certainement accueilli et sa realisation appuyee
par le Comite."
L. H. Vincent.
Une plaine plantee d'oliviers et au bord de laquelle se trouve une colonic juive sert de centre a ces hypogees (Illustration 25 b). Une grande grotte beante porte le nom de la synagogue, et des traditions juives datant du moins du XIIP siecle s'y rattachent comme, d'ailleurs, a une autre
48
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DU NORD
caverne dite " Les Caves des Rois ". (i) Parmi ces grottes, c'est I'hypogee dit de Simeon le Juste qui jouit d'une celebrite toute parti- culiere. Situee au nord de la plaine, dans le flanc des rochers qui sur- montent le Dar el Mufti, cette caverne n'a rien de caracteristique si ce n'est que la tradition juive y place, depuis le XV' siecle surtout,(2) le lieu de sepulture de Simeon le Juste, le grand pretre et le docteur du III* siecle av. J.-C. L'hypogee contient deux salles et c'est dans I'interieur qu'on montre le sepulcre de cette illustre personnage, a qui on devait egalement I'agrandissement et I'embellissement de Jerusalem. (3)
Pres de I'entree de la grotte sont inhumes les restes des ossements de la famille royale qui ont ete decouverts par M. de Saulcy dans les sar- cophages des Tombeaux des Rois.
Le Tombeau de Simeon le Juste jouit d'une faveur toute speciale aupres les Juifs de la Ville. lis s'y rendent en masse le 28 Tishre (en Octobre), date de I'anniversaire de Simeon selon le Talmud. (4) 11 en est de meme pour le lendemain de la fete des Semaines. Mais c'est le jour dit Lag-Ba'omer (5) que presque toute la population juive de Jerusalem se donne rendez-vous sur la place qui porte le nom du Saint.
La grotte et la place environnante sont la propriete de la Com- munaute Juive.
51. Tombeaux dits des membres du petit SynMrion {v. Illustration 25). — Quelque minutes de marche vers I'ouest du Tombeau du Simeon on ren- contre une grande grotte avec plusieurs compartiments qui contiennent 23 locules ou bancs-tombes. Etant donne que le chiffre de 23 represente exactement celui des membres du petit Synedrion qui exer^ait la justice a Jerusalem, une tradition de date tres recente y place les tombeaux des membres d'un petit Synedrion qui y seraient inhumes en bloc. Au point de vue archeologique, cette grotte n'offre aucun interet special.
52. Tombeaux des Rois {v. Illustration 25 r). — La Societe ayant ete emue de I'etat neglige pendant la guerre dans lequel se trouve actuellement le monument connu sous le nom de Tombeaux des Rois {v. Illustration 71) s'est fait adresser un rapport special sur ce sujet.
(i) V. Zacharie, XIV, 10.
(2) EUe est mentionnee pour la premiere fois dans un carnet de voyage d'un pelerin de Florence datant de I'an 148 1.
(3) V. I'Ecclesiastique de Ben-Sirach.
(4) Talm. Babyl. Traite Yoma, f. 39^.
(5) Le 33* jour des sept semaines qui separent la Paque de la fete des Semaines.
G 49
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DtJ NORD
La grotte appelee les Tombeaux des Rois (Kobour el Molouk) qui se trouve a moins de 800 metres de la Porte de Damas est un des plus beaux monuments de I'art judai'que. Ce dernier a ete connu et venere longtemps avant que M. de Saulcy (i) n'ait precede a des travaux de deblaiement qui ont abouti a la decouverte des sarcophages et d'autres objets d'art qui aujourd'hui decorent la Salle des antiquites judai'ques au Musee de Louvre.
M. de Chateaubriand en a donne la premiere description detaillee. Voici, d'ailleurs, un releve sommaire de I'ensemble tel que ce monument nous a ete revele par les fouilles de M. de Saulcy:
Un grand escalier taille dans le roc large de 8 metres forme de 25 marches conduit dans une cour interieure. II est flanque de petits canaux qui conduisent I'eau vers une espece de bassin. On entre par une arcade dans une vaste cour de 28 metres de longueur et de 25 m. 30 de largeur. C'est sur le cote ouest de la cour que s'ouvre I'hypogee meme. Un large vestibule soutenu autrefois par deux colonnes doriques aujourd'hui dis- parus est surmonte par une frise de style judai'que finement sculpte. On y voit un triglyphe, une metopee ornee d'un anneau, puis une grappe de raisins entre deux couronnes et deux palmiers, ailleurs on aper^oit des feuillages mal conserves. La porte d'entree cylindrique qui est basse et etroite se trouve a gauche aujourd'hui ouverte, mais on voit encore la grosse pierre ronde dite le Goleil (la roulante) qu'on faisait rouler a volonte. On entre dans la salle centrale qui est carree et assez elevee et sur laquelle s'ouvrent quatre chambres ou on apergoit des fours a tombeaux et des Kochim. (2) C'est dans la plus profonde de ces chambres que M. de Saulcy avait decouvert les sarcophages royaux et des objets d'art.
Sur le cote anterieur de I'un de ces sarcophages on lit en caracteres dits estranghelo (syriens) et repetes en hebreu-arameen le nom d'une reine
I. Kn^S:^ px 2. nn^So rm
Traduction : La reine Sidonia (3) ou la reine Sadda (en arameen).
On a voulu chercher a reconnaitre dans ces tombeaux les restes des rois de Juda (4) puis ceux d'Helene d'Adiabene et de ses fils. (5) Plus tard la decouverte d'une empreinte, tres suspecte d'ailleurs qui porte le
(i) Cf. M. de Saulcy, Histoire de I'art Judaique.
(2) Dite Arcosolia.
(3) Le nom de Sidonia est frequent en dialecte phenicien.
(4) M. de Saulcy.
(5) Robinson, Palestine, p. 183.
50
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DU NORD
nom d'Helene etait venue renforcer cette derniere opinion. Pour moi I'hypogee demeure la necropole des derniers Hasmoneens. La reine Sidonia ou Sadda serait une reine juive de la fin du IP ou du commence- ment du I" siecle.
La tradition juive venere cet hypogee qu'elle connait depuis des siecles sous le nom de la grotte de Kalba Shaboua, un philanthrope du I" siecle. (l) Dans une etude de date recent on a essaye d'identifier ce nom avec celui de Monebozes fils d'Helene et grand bienfaiteur de Jerusalem. (2)
Un folklore special se rattache a cette grotte. On lui attribue des phenomenes miraculeux. Entre autres, ses portes s'ouvraient d'elles-memes le jour d'anniversaire du deces des personnages qui y sont enterres. (3)
L'Hypogee du Rois est la propriete de la famille juive de Pereire a Paris qui en a fait don au Gouvernement Franfais.
53. Tombeaux des Juges (v. Illustration 25 (i). — Un quart d'heure de marche des Tombeaux des Rois par la route de Nebi Samuel conduit vers les Tombeaux des Juges, ou les Kobour el Koudat, en arabe. Les Juifs les appellent du nom des Tombeaux du Grand Synedrion, le nombre des tombes qu'on y trouve etant de 71. Bien que le chiffre correspond reellement au nombre des membres de Synedrion, il ne faudrait pas prendre cette tradition en serieuse consideration.
II s'agit d'un grand hypogee qui est creuse dans le rocher. On y penetre par un vestibule qui mene a une grande chambre sepulcrale. Un fronton orne de sculptures et encadre de moulages offre un magnifique specimen d'art judai'que. D'elegants rinceaux de feuillages et de fruits se deroulent a droite et a gauche d'une triple palme centrale.
Sur un autre fronton on voit un rosace epanui d'ou se deroulent deux grands palmiers. Le couvercle d'un tombeau dont les fragments se trouvent au musee du Louvre portent une inscription oil Ton lit le nom de pnx* (Isaac), en hebreu carre archai'que.
Comme I'ornementation permet de le fixer, le tout daterait de I'epoque des Herodiades. Les voyageurs juifs du moyen age signalent cet hypogee comme etant le lieu de repos de nombreux docteurs de la Loi, ce qui serait assez plausible. A partir du XV° siecle on avait pris I'habitude de la considerer comme I'hypogee des membres du Grand Synedrion. Les pelerins juifs combinent leurs visites avec celles des jours qui sont reserves a la Tombe de Simeon le Juste.
(i) Un voyageur carai'te de I'an 1055 '^ signale sous ce nom.
(2) V. le recueil Jerusalem de A. M. Luncz, t. I, p. 93.
(3) Cf. P.E.F., q.s., 1897, p. 182 et s.
51
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DE L'EST
54. La Vallee de Josaphat (v. Illustration 25 ^). — Inclu dans le sys- teme des pares propose par M. le Conseiller Civique d'apres le nouveau plan de la Ville.
La Vallee de Cedron a ete de tout temps le centre prefere des sepul- tures juives. Deja a sa naissance, au nord-ouest, ou elle porte un autre nom, on remarque sur ses rives le groupe des Tombeaux des Rois et des Juges. Plus loin on rencontre le pittoresque cimetiere des Caraites d'un interet tout particulier. En tournant vers Test, on rencontre, entre la gare et la Ville, au milieu d'un vaste groupe des sepulcres juifs, un hypogee qui est considere comme celui de la famille de Herode et qui se distingue par la solidite de sa construction, comme par le travail soigne de deux sarcophages ornes de sculptures judaiques qu'on trouve dans I'interieur de ce souterrain. (i) Mais c'est du cote sud-est que cette vallee est consideree sur toute son etendue qui separe la ville du Mont des Oliviers comme la Vallee de Josaphat, ou celle du jugement dernier.
Cette allegorie empruntee aux prophetes provient surtout de ce que cette vallee sert depuis I'antiquite de vaste necropole aux Juifs de toutes les epoques. Les Musulmans ayant repris cette tradition, inhument leurs morts sur la pente orientale de la coUine du Temple, alors que tout le versant ouest — entre la pente du Mont du Scandale et jusqu'aux jardins de Gethsemani et aux " Viri Galilei" (en passant par les villages de Siloe au sud et de la Tour au nord) on rencontre des tombeaux juifs antiques et recents, ces derniers etant caracterises par des pierres tumulaires disseminees sur les pentes en desordre.
Nombreux sont les tombeaux des prophetes et des docteurs que la tradition croit pouvoir identifier dans ces endroits. La survivance de plusieurs monuments datant de I'antiquite et la decouverte d'inscriptions ecrites de sarcophages et d'ossuaires peints donnent beaucoup de consis- tance a ces traditions. Ainsi on avait decouvert sur la pente du Moftt du Scandale des nombreux hypogees dont plusieurs contiennent des epitaphes d'origine juive ecrites en hebreu ou en grec et datant des pre- miers siecles du christianisme.
Du cote sud, au pied du village de Siloe on montre le tombeau dit du prophete Isaie. (2)
(1) C'est pres d'ici que la vallee commence a porter le nom de Rephaim, c.-a.-d. dcg morts, des races disparues. Ch. Joel, IV, 2 etc.
(2) Une inscription grecque confirme I'anciennete de cette tradition.
5a
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DE L'EST
Dans une grotte situee en face de la source de Siloe on montre la sepul- ture de Rabbi Obadia de Bartanora, le docteur (l) italien du XV^ siecle et le restaurateur de la Communaute Juive moderne de la Ville Sainte.
Au nord du Siloe, sur la pente occidentale de la coUine, on rencontre un monolithe detache du roc et dont une porte donne acces a une grotte double taillee dans le roc.
M. Clermont-Ganneau a reconnu sur un cartouche au dessus de la porte des lettres hebraiques pheniciennes qui datent de I'epoque du pre- mier Temple. D'autre part, le mausolee porte un caractere egyptien distinct, ce qui prouve qu'il s'agit d'un hypogee anterieure a la Captivite.
Plus au nord, du cote est du versant se detachent trois monuments celebres du fond de ce champ eternel de la mort. Du cote nord c'est le roc taille dit la main d'Absalon (I'obelisque) que je crois constituer un monument commemoratif ayant ete eleve par le peuple de Jerusalem sur une place qui avait ete consacree par la tradition anterieure.
Quant a la pyramide dite de Zacharie, cette derniere pourrait bien etre un monument d'expiation, en commemoration du meurtre du pretre et prophete Zacharie. Pareil acte serait conforme a I'esprit pietiste des Pharisiens comme a un passage qu'on rencontre dans les Evangiles.
Derriere le monument dit d'Absalon on aper^oit a peine les vestiges du tombeau dit de Josaphat, aujourd'hui invisible. Heureusement que nous possedons une reproduction fort bien faite de ce monument ainsi que d'une frise qui represente un specimen du plus bel art judai'que des derniers siecles de la Judee.
C'est entre ces deux monuments si originaux que se detache la grotte dite de la retraite de St. Jacques, mais qui en realite ouvre la serie d'hypo- gees juifs dates et identifies. On aper^oit de loin les deux colonnes doriques qui soutiennent I'architrave de cette caverne qui est creusee dans les flancs des rochers bordant la vallee. L'inscription qu'on lit au dessus de I'architrave ne laisse plus subsister des doutes concernant le caractere de cet hypogee, quoique en dise la tradition chretienne ou juive, cette derniere y ayant placee la retraite de Roi Uzie atteint par la lepre.
Le texte est grave en caracteres hebraiques archaiques et I'ortho- graphe date des derniers deux siecles de I'existence de la Judee.
nnn 'jao . . . non ^n nTySxi cjavSn • . . p eiDV ':2
Traduction : Ceci est le tombeau et lieu (de repos) pour El'azar,
(l) R. P. Abel et Vincent, Jerusalem, II, p. 68.
53
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DE L'EST
Honiah, Yo'azar, Yehoudah, Shimeon, Yohanan, les fils de . . . le (et pour Jo)seph et El'azar les fils de Honiah . . . des Bene Hezir.
II s'agit de I'hypogee de la famille sacerdotale des Bene Hezir men- tionne par i Chroniques Ch. XXIV, 15. On distingue encore a Tinterieur les loctdi ou les fours destines a recevoir les morts, mais tout le reste avait disparu.
Malgre toutes les vicissitudes de I'histoire, le versant ouest du Mont des Oliviers n'a guere cesse de demeurer le centre des inhumations juives. La plupart de monuments ou des pierres tombales ayant disparu ou ayant ete ensevelies ou detruites par la pluie on ne voit plus sur la surface que les pierres de ces derniers siecles qui couvrent tout I'espace. Chateau- briand en a laisse un tableau tres fidele:
"Les pierres du cimetiere des Juifs se montrent comme un amas de debris au pied de la montagne du Scandale, sous le village de Siloan. . . . On a peine a distinguer les mesures de ce village des sepulcres dont elles sont environnees. Trois monuments antiques, les tombeaux de Zacharie, de Josaphat et d'Absalon, se font remarquer dans ce champ de destruc- tion. A la tristesse de Jerusalem, dont il ne s'eleve aucune fumee, dont il ne sort aucun bruit, a la solitude des montagnes, ou Ton n'aperg:oit pas un etre vivant, au desordre de toutes ces tombes fracassees, brisees, demi-ouvertes, on dirait que le trompette du Jugement s'est deja fait entendre et que les morts vont se lever dans la vallee de Josaphat."
Cette vision du grand romantique m'avait paru exacte lors de ma premiere visite a Jerusalem, il y a un quart de siecle. Elle a fort peu change meme aujourd'hui — si bien qu'il faudrait porter un remede quelconque a cette tristesse ecrasante, je dirais meme blessante. Aussi ne saurais-je saluer qu'avec joie I'idee du Conseiller Civique qui consiste a faire planter sur les deux versants un pare bien ordonne. Ce dernier aurait ainsi englobe les monuments de I'antiquite et dissimule la nudite des pierres tombales parmi les arbres verdoyants.
II faudrait seulement faire attention a la presence sur le sol comme dans le sein de la terre de nombreux souvenirs qui se rattachent a I'antiquite.
II en est de meme pour ce qui concerne les tombes des rabbins et des saints de ces derniers siecles, telle le sepulcre convert d'un tas de pierres du penitent Kalonymos qui se trouve tout pres du Monument de Zacharie. Tres veneree est egalement la tombe du cabbaliste Jehouda ha-hassid qui se trouve en bas du cimetiere des Ashkenazim (i), ce dernier etant situe au dessus de celui des Sephardim (2).
(i) Juif de Rite Europeen. (2) Juif de Rite Oriental.
54
TOMBEAUX JUIFS DE L'EST
55. Tombeaux des Prophetes {v. Illustration 25/). — Plus au nord on rencontre sur le versant est de la vallee et jusqu'aux hauteurs du Mont des Oliviers des groupes d'hypogees fort anciens. La forme primitive de plusieurs d'entre eux qu'on appelle souvent "egyptiens" attestent de leur originalite et antiquite. Les plus connus sont les tombeaux dits des Prophetes qui se trouvent sur la pente sud du village de la Tour. II s'agit des cavernes creusees dans le roc pres du sommet et ayant au milieu une salle a trois ouvertures entrecoupees qui donne I'impression d'etre appuyee sur des colonnes grossieres d'environ 30 m. de diametre chacune. On compte dans ces parois 24 Kokhim ou arcosolia servant de tombes. L'absence de toute ornementation et le style primitif de I'ensemble sont temoins de I'anciennete de I'hypogee.
Des textes du XV^ siecle placent dans ces cavernes les sepulcres du prophete Hagai et de ses disciples, alors qu'un auteur caraite de I'an 1522 y ajoute les noms des tombes des prophetes Zacharie et Malachie.
Les Juifs considerent cette grotte comme un lieu saint. II y a une trentaine d'annees I'Eglise Russe s'etant rendue proprietaire de cet hypogee, cette acquisition avait suscite les protestations unanimes de la population juive. Si bien que le Gouvernement Turc ait fini par interdire aux Russes d'eriger toute construction sur la grotte.
Une tradition juive qui manque d'ailleurs de toute base, place, en outre, I'hypogee de la prophetesse Hulda tout pres de la grotte des Prophetes.
Par contre on avait decouvert et identifie de nombreux hypogees juifs de I'epoque greco-romaine dans les jardins russes de Gethsemani et au nord dans I'emplacement dit Viri Galilei, pres de la Chapelle Grecque de I'Ascension. Ces monuments qui ont fourni des inscriptions fort interessantes meritent qu'on les preserve d'une destruction certaine.
Nahum Slousch, Docteur es Lettres (Sorbonne), Director-delegue de la " Jewish Palestine Exploration Society."
55
Les Monuments de l'Epoque Romaine proteges par la societe
56. Jerusalem n'avait pas encore cesse d'etre la capitale juive, et deja, vers le debut de notre ere, sa physionomie esthetique, depouillant graduellement toute originallte, se mettait a I'unisson de la culture hellenistlque predominante a travers I'orient, surtout depuis I'extension de la puissance romaine. A peine le Temple auguste du Dieu d'Israel marquait-il une certaine autonomic artistique dans la vieille cite ; I'empreinte hellenistique venait d'etre imprimee jusque sur le glorieux sanctuaire par la restauration fastueuse d'Herode le Grand.
Presque aneantie par la conquete des legions de Titus, en I'an 70 apres J.-C, la ville essaya vainement de se reconstituer, dans le premier quart du second siecle, comme centre du mouvement nationaliste autonome que dirigeait Bar-Kokebas. Cette tentative avortee consomma I'aneantissement de la cite juive. L'empereur Hadrien en decreta la suppression et le remplacement par une ville coloniale romaine, dont le vocable nouveau effacerait jusqu'au souvenir de Jerusalem. Sur le plan rituel d'une colonic, en I'an 136 de notre ere, des architectes romains creerent la jeune cite d'Aelia Capitolina, avec son Forum, son Capitole et Ic vaste cycle des temples, basiliques, theatres, thermes, portiques, rues a colonnades, arcs commemoratifs et autres edifices municipaux qui faisaient a toute colonic une image plus ou moins attenuee de la loin- taine metropolc.
Topographiquement la ville etait desormais figee pour de longs sieclcs par la delimitation dc la colonic imperiale. EUe ne devait guerc se modifier jusqu'au mouvement dc subite expansion contemporaine, en attendant que les plans aujourd'hui en elaboration lui donnent une repartition et un developpement mieux adaptes a son role nouveau, comme a nos modernes concepts esthetiques ct sociaux.
La ville chretiennc est derivee sans transition archeologique de la cite romaine d'Aelia Capitolina, dont clle a seulement nuance I'aspect par la substitution d'eglises aux anciens edifices religieux du paganisme, mais en conservant dans toute leur integrite les monuments civils adaptes au regime nouveau. La conquete arabe, la fondation du royaume latin, les invasions ulterieures, la longuc domination turque, ne furent que des modalites dans I'evolution perseverante de la meme tranie archeologique. Aussi n'est-on point surpris de rencontrer en maint endroit de la ville moderne, ou de voir reparaitre frequemment, des qu'on en remue quelque
56
LES MONUMENTS DE L'EPOQUE ROMAINE
peu le sol, des vestiges romains bien caracterises : pauvres epaves le plus souvent, 9a et la toutefois elements gracieux de constructions imposantes.
57. Bien que I'heure ait ete trop longtemps retardee ou des re- cherches systematiques pourront etre entreprises pour operer le deblaie- ment total et assurer la conservation de ces vestiges, I'attention du Comite n'a cesse d'etre en eveil pour enregistrer et sauvegarder tous les debris de Jerusalem romaine.
A peine la ville etait-elle liberie, par la brillante victoire du General Allenby, de I'engourdissement sordide ou la plongeait depuis tant de siecles une domination deprimante et oppressive, que I'administration militaire anglaise etait a I'oeuvre pour ameliorer des conditions hygie- niques nefastes. Parallelement aux admirables travaux qui allaient bientot approvisionner Jerusalem en eaux vives, la plus notable entre- prise fut le nettoyage methodique de la Citadelle pres de la porte occiden- tale ou Porte de Jaffa. Chacun sait que le vaste edifice designe sous ce nom quelque peu emphatique groupe des masures plus ou moins modernes avec de splendides constructions medievales et des elements romains et juifs de I'epoque herodienne. Les preoccupations urgentes du moment, non moins que les conditions imposees par le statut politique temporaire, nelaissaient pas la faculte des fouilles laborieuses qu'eut exige I'exploration archeologique fondamentale de cet ensemble tres enchevetre. II fallait se borner aux mesures preliminaires d'assainissement par I'evacuation de detritus de toute nature, et des plus encombrantes masses de de- combres. Cette tache realisee avec autant d'energie que de prudente circonspection a pourtant revelc maint detail deja fort suggestif des transformations que les architectes romains firent subir a I'antique palais fortifie d'Herode pour I'adapter a I'ordonnance du camp ou la legion dixieme demeura cantonnee apres le siege de I'an 70, et pour I'harmoniser par la suite a la structure gcnerale de la colonic d'Aelia Capitolina. Les constatations archeologiques rendues possibles par ces fructueux travaux seront fecondes pour guider I'exploration future. Sur le site du Temple ancien, devenu le Haram de la cite musulmane, la mosquee de la Roche — dite communement mosquee d'Omar — exigeait imperieusement quelques restaurations {v. Illustrations 19, 20). Tandis qu'il les dirigeait avec une science technique et un art consommes, M. le major architecte Richmond accomplit, autour du merveilleux edifice, des recherches archeologiques discretes et habiles dont il lui appartient naturellement de divulguer en temps voulu les precieux resultats. Disons seulement que parmi les faits archeologiques enregistres dans cette investigation si
H 57
LES MONUMENTS DE L'EPOQUE ROMAINE
sagace, il en est quelques-uns de nature a eclairer d'une lumiere opportune et inesperee revolution architecturale du monument, et en particulier I'etat du site a I'epoque romaine.
Diverses informations concernant le meme periode ont resulte d'une double entreprise methodiquement poursuivie depuis deux ans par la remarquable competence et patiente activite de M. I'architecte-ingenieur Ashbee, depuis longtemps specialise en ce domaine esthetique : creation d'un systeme de jardins et de pares dans la ville et aux alentours ; installa- tion d'une promenade sur le chemin de ronde a la crete des vieux remparts et sur le perimetre de I'enceinte. Et si, la comme partout ailleurs, les conditions du present n'autorisaient pas une exploration archeologique integrale, du moins les vestiges romains constates ont pu etre, suivant I'occurrence, degages, remis en valeur, consolides, ou au contraire, apres consolidation provisoire et reperage precis, mis a I'abri pour I'exploration methodique de demain. C'est ainsi qu'en amenageant naguere un jardin et une terrasse de jeux pour les enfants, dans un quartier tres desherite de la ville haute, en bordure d'une des arteres aboutissant vers la porte de Nebi Daoud et presque au voisinage de cette porte, fut constatee I'existence de substructions monumentales sous le mole de detritus et gourbis ruineux constituant ce qu'on nomme aujourd'hui le ouaqf Abou Liya {v. Illustrations 9, 10). Pour autant qu'il etait possible de s'en rendre compte, une fois realise le nettoyage prealable du site, le sous-sol consiste en un reseau d'arcades en plein-cintre assujetties sur de puis- santes piles quadrangulaires et supportant un dallage massif. L'obtura- tion de quelques-unes de ces arcades par des ma^onnerie de blocage et I'application d'un revetement etanche a transforme ulterleurement ces substructions en citernes. II est toutefois assez clair que telle ne fut point leur destination primitive. II suffit d'observer les formes structurales, la nature et la situation de ces vestiges pour en soupgonner I'origine romaine. Feut-etre d'aucuns evoqueront-ils a ce propos la creation du pavement luxueux en grandes dalles que la munificence herodienne fit realiser dans la ville entiere, apres I'achevement du Temple. Plus volontlers neanmoins, jusqu'a plus ample informe, on serait enclin a rattacher ces beaux debris a I'installation du camp romain sur le site qui nous occupe, a partir de la conquete de 70. En cette zone meridionale du camp, I'erection de quelque edifice de speciale importance, a moins que ce ne soit, plus vraisemblablement encore, le simple etablissement d'une artere de com- munications interieures, rendrait le meilleur compte de la plate-forme artificiellement developpe au moyen de ces substructions inebranlees apres de si longs siecles fertiles en bouleversements de toute nature.
58
LES MONUMENTS DE L'EPOQUE ROMAINE
58. Et tandis que I'activite du Comite Pro-Jerusalem enrichissait notablement ainsi notre connaissance archeologique de la cite romaine, sa vigilance ne se revelait pas moins feconde pour la sauvegarde des monuments deja connus. Un exemple caracterlstique en fera suffisam- ment la preuve.
Tout le monde a en memoire les belles decouvertes realisees, voici deja un quart de siecle, aux abords de la piscine de Siloe, par les vastes fouilles que dirigerent M. le Dr. F. J. Bliss et M. I'architecte A. C. Dickie pour le compte du " Palestine Exploration Fund ". Outre les imposants vestiges d'une basilique chretienne en relation immediate avec les por- tiques de la piscine, ces fructueux et difficiles travaux revelerent notam- ment I'existence d'un systeme complique de vieux murs appartenant a divers periodes du rempart de Jerusalem antique, et surtout une voie monumentale a escaliers qui, par le fond primitif de la vallee du Tyropoeon, mettait la piscine de Siloe en communication directe avec la ville d'epoque romaine {v. Illustration 76). Vers la fin de I'ete de 1919 un entrepreneur de constructions bien au fait de ces decouvertes qui avaient fait bruit en leur temps, eut I'idee astucieuse de les exploiter clandestinement pour approvisionner a peu de frais ses chantiers. Non content d'avoir utilise d'abord comme une tres lucrative carriere un enorme massif de magon- nerie antique situe a I'angle nord-ouest de la piscine, il commen^iait I'extraction des superbes dalles de la rue a escaliers quand sa funeste besogne fut observee par M. le conseiller civique Ashbee dans une de ses frequentes rondes de surveillance. La dilapidation fut aussitot inter- rompue, le fouilleur indiscret contraint de remettre, autant que faire se pouvait, toutes choses en etat, et condamne par surcroit a une amende de cinquante livres egyptiennes : sages et energiques mesures qui de- courageront vraisemblablement a I'avenir les tentatives analogues.
59. Dans la limite si restreinte encore de ses ressources et de sa liberte d'action, etant donne le statut provisoire qui a regi la contree jusqu'a ce jour, le Comite Pro-Jerusalem a done bien merlte deja des antiquites romaines de la Ville Sainte. Si le resume succinct et neces- sairement superficiel qu'on vient de lire a reussi a donner quelque idee de sa feconde activite dans ce domaine special, qui represente seulement une faible partie de la tache qu'il poursuit, chacun voudra pratiquement seconder un labeur si utile au developpement scientifique, esthetique, economique et social de Jerusalem.
L. H. Vincent, Prof, a I'Ecole biblique et archeologique Jerusalem, mai 1920. de Saint-Etienne, Jerusalem.
59
\\
'•;-\
A
Roman Stairway at Siloam.
Plan based on the Bliss and Dickie excavations, showing where the Stairway from Jerusalem to Siloam has been disturbed.
No. 76.
Pool of Siloam. f. Rock-hewn conduit.
Ancitnt Pool and hfth-century Church. g.
Old Pool. ^^ ^ ^
The great Roman Stairway and street (with i.
drain below) running from Jerusalem XXX.
down to Siloam.
The south wall of the city, of the period of the Empress Eudocia.
Inferred line of wall.
Gate.
Existing paths.
The portions within the circle are those destroyed by the contractor.
Monuments des Croisades proteges
PAR LA SOCIETE PRO-JERUSALEM
60. II n'est pas encore entre dans les attributions de la Societe de s'occuper directement des edifices eleves au moyen age a Jerusalem, tels que les diverses eglises aujourd'hui en exercice (le Saint-Sepulcre, Sainte- Anne, Saint-Jacques des Armeniens, le Tombeau de la Vierge), ou trans- formees en mosquees ou en ouelys (Nebi-Daoud, el Yaqoubiyeh, Cheikh Derbas, Djamia Mawlana, etc.). Tandis que les unes sont entretenues soigneusement par leurs proprietaires, les autres sont soumises a une reglementation qui echappe a la competence de notre Comite. Celle-ci ou celle-la pourtant, abandonnee a un delabrement pitoyable, pourra etre I'objet d'un examen attentif de la part des archeologues qui auront a coeur de signaler les degradations et les moyens a employer pour la conservation de ces venerables temoins de I'histoire de la Ville Sainte.
L'activite des constructeurs du XIP siecle a ete telle, meme en dehors du domaine religieux, qu'il est difficile de ne pas rencontrer en n'importe quel point de la ville des vestiges de leur travail. Si les reparations apportees aux maisons, aux khans, aux bains, aux bazars, aux portes, aux remparts, aux rues, par les Arabes et les Turcs dans les siecles qui ont suivi les Croisades ont masque ou defigure la batisse medievale en divers endroits, elles n'ont pas reussi a en dissimuler partout le caractere original.
61. Le nettoyage opere a la Citadelle (el Qalaah: v. Illustrations 3, 6j) par les soins du Comite, en attendant de proceder a un deblaiement plus complet, a certainement mis en valeur quelques locaux remontant a I'occupation franque. La destruction systematique dont ce monument fut victime en 1239 de la part de Adalek-en-Naser et de Daoud, prince de Kerak, dans le but d'aft'aiblir la ville convoitee par les Occidentaux, ne s'est pas etendue aux salles bases, ni aux souterrains. Apres avoir abattu les constructions superieures que les Croises avaient consolidees et developpees, les demolisseurs renoncerent a desceller les blocs de la batisse inferieure dont une partie subsistait depuis les temps herodiens.
Vulgairement appelee " Tour de David " de I'une de ses plus notables constructions decoree de ce nom depuis I'epoque byzantine, la Citadelle joua un role considerable dans I'histoire de la Jerusalem du XII' siecle. Reduit a capituler apres que la ville fut tombee aux mains des Occiden- taux, I'Emir Efftikhar Ed-Dauleh I'avait remise au comte Raymond de Toulouse, a condition d'avoir la faculte de se retirer a Ascalon avec sa
61
MONUMENTS DES CROISADES
garde composee d'Arabes, de Turcs et de negres. Les nouveaux maitres se garderent de negliger un ouvrage militaire de cette importance. Immediatement le comte Gamier de Gray en accrut la force defensive, en iioo. La forteresse comprenait, outre la tour dont on voit encore le soubassement massif, toute une serie d'appartements et d'abris proteges par des remparts, des fosses, des barbacanes, des machicoulis. On y gardait d'abondantes reser\-es d'eau et de ble, en prexnsion d'une alerte qui obligerait les habitants de la yWIq a s'y refugier. C'etait veritable- ment le donjon de la cite, le praisidium civitatis, aux termes memes des contemporains. La tour atteignait une hauteur imposante puisqu'il fallait gra\'ir deux cents degres pour en atteindre le sommet. Une partie de cet escalier portant tres \-isiblement les caracteristiques de la taille medievale se retrouve en montant a la terrasse de la tour actuelle. L'higoumene russe Daniel obtint, comme une faveur exceptionelle, la permission de la \'isiter en 1106. " Elle est tres difficile a prendre, ecrit-il, et forme la principale defense de la \*ille; on la garde soigneusement et on ne permet a personne d'y penetrer sans surveillance. Tout infirme que je suis, Dieu m'a accorde I'acces de cette tour sacree avec Isdeslav, qui a ete le seul que j'ai pu faire entrer avec moi. "
Cette citadelle, dont certains chateaux-forts de Syrie nous donnent une idee, etait confiee a un officier qui porta d'abord le titre de Gardien de la Tour de Da\-id, puis celui de Chatelain de la Tour, ou Chatelain de Jerusalem. Elle etait en somme la residence du gouvemeur. En depit de certaines revendications qui s'agiterent entre les chefs de I'armee conquerante, elle fit partit des domaines royaux et figura sur les sceaux d'Amaur}- I"^ (1162-1173) et sur les monnaies de son successeur Baudouin IV, sjinbole de I'independance et de la pleine souverainete des rois latins de Jerusalem. Ceux-ci y avaient annexe un palais faisant face a la tour principale vers le midi ; ce "manoir du Roy", comme on I'appelait, etait situe sur la rue des Armeniens dans le voisinage de la petite eglise, encore tres reconnaissable, de Saint-Thomas des Allemands.
Un detail qui, quoique remontant a I'an 1 15 1, ne manque pas d'actualite est a relever ici, puisqu'en ce moment Ton pense au nom de I'esthetique et de la protection du monument, a soulager la Porte de Jaffa du fardeau encombrant de I'horloge turque.
II s'agit d'un acte de la reine de Jerusalem, Melissende, suppri- mant un moulin qui genait la Tour de DaN-id et la porte de la \'ille qui y touche. En compensation, les freres de Saint-Lazare, qui en etaient les proprietaires, resolvent un champ pres de Bethleem. Quand on con- sidere que la partie lesee etait la societe chargee des leproseries, on
62
MOMMFMS ni-S cROlSAOF.S
con.-;t.uo qu'on i.-o tonips-l.\ r.uuoiitc no iwul.iit vio\ .nit .uu-uac OvMisidrrA- tion ni mesuro r.uiio.ilo pour .issuici A l.i \ illc Jo TaisAnco ot Ac I'har-
monio.
(V. l.o (.\Muito .1 oc.iloinoni ou ."i s\\\-upov dos H.»ins liu r.uri.u\i\c ct do 1.1 pisoino Jo niomo lunn. qui so ti\ni\ont do part cl d'autiv de la ruo dos Chrotious {iDut i-.'H-.V.;,v.;r<l- r. Illustrations 2<;, 14"). Rappolons a CO sujoi qu'.nant dc dovonir un C>uaqf ^\c la Ktuinihih S.iJ.^hUvh, ootte install.ition balnoairo ot l.i pi.<oino qui ralimontait. ctaicnt dcja en usage au Xll' sioolo sous los appoIl.it ions dc Bttlma patriarchm et de Jmcu^ baJnrorum. Los rovonus 011 ot.iionT reserves au palais du r.itriarchc qui dovait dovouir onsuito l.idito A.' /j<jh </.!/). 1 ..1 nio dos (.'iuotiei\s s'appolait alors oourauiiuout soit luo i.lu Patri.noho. sv>it luo ilos Haius du Patriarche.
(■)}. .\ ccXtc opoquo. I'ospnoc oompris entro lo lUrkrt ILimtti/Itu /■/ Batriik (,qui oousorvo, on lo voit. son nom niodio\ .iH ot la Porte de jalla, nommec alors Porto >.\c n.i\ id. n'ot.iit jms. oiMiuno Ac nos jours, eneombr6 des const ruot ions hetoroolites. l,o noni niodornc de MfiJiin qui designe la ruo au nord Ac la Citadollo n'osl qu'uno roniinisoonoo de Fautique place <.ni. au piod ilo l.i Tour ilo n.nid. on t. lis. lit lo coniiiioio<' ilos 001c. lies. La possibilito d'un do;:.i;:oniont .111 nioins p.uliol Ac l.i I'mto Ac J.illa a etc cnvisagoo par lo Coinite Pro-Jcrusaleni. un rolonr .1 rd. it piiiuiiif nc devant pas raisonnabloniont olio pris cw oonsidoi.ition ^r-. Ulusii.i- tions 4045).
64. Mais ou i! a ete possible d'elToi tuoi icit.iinos inulioi.itions, c'est a I'ensonible des bazars voutos qui oooupont le ou-iir ilo l.i \illo h ini- cheiniii entio la C'itadcUe el la Torto du il.ir.uu ililo lull' r^ Silsilrh. Nous avons la irois rues parallelos aiiuolloniont donominoos, il'ouosi on est : —
1. Sodq d La/iIiAnifn (Bazar dos Ivuuhers).
2. So^q t-l ''Jttann (Bazardos parlinncurs: f. illin.Ir.ilions i ,'. \U).
3. Sodq el Kluiivdjat ou cs-^ouyyaK'i (l^azar Ac lUKoiianls uii
des orfcvros).
Aux temps byzantins rcmplacenient de ccs trois Souqs n'el.iii qu'iine section de la grande rue a cok)nnes qui traversait la ville du nurd au siui, de la Porte de Danias a la Porto dcSion. La proxiinilo Aw S.iint SopuK le
03
MONUMENTS DES CROISADES
y avait sans doute attire un grand nombre de commer^ants, et Fun des marches signales par les recits de la prise de Jerusalem par les Perses en 614, devait assurement se trouver la. L'agora qu'ils mentionnent est a localiser d'autre part au Meid&n de la porte occidentale de la ville que I 'on appelait aussi B&b er-Rahbeh (Porte de la place) au temps de Moudjir ed-Din. Pour en revenir au triple bazar, les Arabes, a leur arrivee, auraient laisse aux Chretiens les deux rangees de boutiques qui longeaient la rue a I'occident et a I'orient, mais se seraient approprie I'espace inter- mediaire qui constituait le marche du milieu.
65. Pour faciliter les transactions, des changeurs s'etaient etablis a chaque extremite de ces halles. Au XIP siecle, on trouvait les changeurs latins au sud, et les changeurs syriens, c'est a dire indigenes, au nord, occupant les premieres echoppes en tete des Souqs, jusqu'a ce que la restauration de Melissende les cut groupes en deux corps de logis dis- tincts. Digne emule des Helene et des Eudocie, cette reine, ainsi que nous I'apprend une piece officielle de 1152, avait obtenu la cession de divers locaux appartenant aux deux "Changes" afin de parfaire une nouvelle rue a Jerusalem, ad perficiendam novum rugam in Jherusalem. Une rue tenant aux deux groupes d'echoppes des changeurs latins d'un cote, et syriens de I'autre, ne peut etre qu'un des trois bazars paralleles en question. Les "Changes" furent des lors recules, I'un au midi jusqu'a la Bachourah, aujourd'hui la cafe a colonnes ; I'autre celui des Syriens dans le corps de batiment en tete de Htret ed-Dabbcighin qui conduit au Saint-Sepulcre.
Que la nouvelle rue creee par Melissende soit identique au Souq el ^Attarin actuel, la preuve en est fournie non seulement par le style de cette construction, mais aussi par les inscriptions recouvertes de badigeon, mais que M. Clermont-Ganneau a pu relever autrefois et publier dans Archeo- logical Researches, I, p. 117. C'est le titre Sa^icta Anna grave plusieurs fois a la naissance des arcs doubleaux, et marquant les boutiques appar- tenant a I'abbaye de Sainte-Anne et dont cette abbaye percevait la location. Un diplome de 1 170 donne pour une maison de la rue des Drapiers contigue a celle-ci une boutique de Sainte-Anne comme point de repere, Juxta stationem S. Annae. Si Ton songe qu'au milieu du XIP siecle, Sainte-Anne avait pour abbesse la propre sceur de Melissende, Judith, on trouvera tout naturel que cette reine ait assigne une grosse partie des revenus de sa nouvelle rue a I'entretien du dit monastere.
A prendre la description de la "Citez de Jerusalem" au pied de la lettre, cette rue centrale s'appelait "Rue de la cuisine" que le populaire
64
MONUMENTS DES CROISADES
avait baptisee Malcuisinat. La, dit on, s'accommodaient les viandes pour les pelerins ; c'est la egalement qu'ils se faisaient laver la tete. Ce dernier detail implique Tinstallation des coiffeurs ou parfumeurs, d'oii le nom actuel dJ''AttaAn. Lorsque Saladin eut transforme en madraseh I'etablisse- ment de Sainte-Anne, il lui attribua les revenus du Souq el 'Attann, per- petuant par la la decision de la princesse latine. II faudrait dans ce cas modifier la position de ce baxar telle que la fixe Aioudjir ed-Din en lui donnant la situation qu'il occupe aujourd'hui. Quoi qu'il en soit, I'ordre de ces rues paralleles etait au moyen age le suivant, en partant de I'ouest: —
1. Rue des herbes : marche aux legumes et aux epices.
2. Rue Malcuisinat {vicus coquinatorum) : cuisines populaires
et salons de coiffure, (i)
3. Rue Couverte {ruga cooperta — parmentariorum) : des mar-
chands tailleurs.
66. Le groupement des metiers auquel travaille le Comite dans un but de commodite et d'hygiene etait, comme on le voit, chose faite au XII" siecle. Chaque corporation avait sa rue ou sa section de rue. Au centre de la ville nous rencontrons les corps de metiers : drapiers, tail- leurs, restaurateurs, coiffeurs, marchands de cierges, changeurs, chacun dans son bazar. Dans la partie meridionale du Mauristan, oii notre Societe a plante quelques arbres sur le terre-plein des mines, se trouvaient localises le marche aux oeufs et aux volailles, le marche aux poissons (f. Illustration 54). De part et d'autre de la place travaillaient les orfevres syriens et les orfevres latins. Sur la rue du Temple (Tariq Bab es-Silsileh) on avait a gauche en descendant, la Boucherie (macellum, bocharia) avec I'escorcherie du Roy ; a droite, les cordonniers ; en allant vers la porte des Moghrebins (Poterne de la Tannerie) la rue des Pelletiers.
67. Le Khhn ez Zeit qui n'a pas ete non plus sans attirer Tattention vigilante du Comite etait fort connu au XIP siecle sous le nom de Rue Saint-Etienne a cause de sa direction vers la porte septentrionale de la
(i) Cette rue etait mitoyenne a la rue Couverte: "Tenant a celle rue Malcuisinat, a une rue qu'on appelle la rue Couverte, la ou Von vend la draperie." Ce textc de la Citez, X, est confirme par cette charte de 1167 : domos quasdam accipit, vicos Coguinati et Parmeniariorum inUrjacentes scilicet in angulo illo quo itur ad Sepulchrum Domini. II est a croire que le Souq oriental se prolongeait aussi loin que k§ putres au nord et n'ctait point diminue de moitic commc aujourd'hui.
I 65
MONUMENTS DES CROISADES
ville qui, depuis I'epoque byzantine, s'appelait dans les milieux chretiens Porte Saint-Etienne. Les documents medievaux signalent dans cette rue un moulin a huile assez important pour avoir donne plus tard son nom au bazar sur lequel il se trouve, des voutes appartenant a I'hopital Saint-Jean et de nouvelles boutiques construites par le chapitre du Saint- Sepulcre. Le So'ilq el Qattanin {v. Illustrations 17, 1 8) relevait de I'abbaye de Temple comme les bains avoisinants, ainsi que plusieurs magasins de la ville marques du signs T S, c'est a dire Templi Statio. Mais sur ce Quartier dV/ Ouady nous n'aurons d'amples details que le jour ou I'on retrouvera et que Ton publiera les archives de I'abbaye du Temple, comme il a ete fait jusqu'ici pour le Saint-Sepulcre, les Hospitallers, la Sainte- Sion et Notre Dame de Josaphat.
F. M. Abel,
Prof, a I'Ecole biblique et archeologique de Saint-Etienne, Jerusalem.
66
Muslim Work Touched by the Pro- Jerusalem Society
68. The Dome of the Rock has already been referred to in Sec- tions lo and 57 of these records. A ground plan is here given (Illustra- tion 77). The building is, as its name "Kubbet es Sakhrah" implies, the covering or dome over the sacred rock, the rock with which tradition
10
20
=3 Metres.
DOME OF THE ROCK.
No. 77.
connects the sacrifice of Isaac and Mohammed's heavenly journey. The inscription on the inside of the drum records its building in the year 72 H. (a.d. 691) by the Khalif Abd el Malek. One hundred and twenty years later the name of Abd el Malek was cut out and that of El Mamun,
67
MUSLIM WORK TOUCHED BY THE SOCIETY
who repaired the building, inserted. The plates of gilded copper with which the Dome was originally covered were removed to pay for the damage of the earthquake of 130 h. (a.d. 747-8). Much of the material of the Dome is that of earlier buildings, Byzantine or Roman, on or around the city, and doubtless destroyed at the time of the invasion of Chosroes II, a.d. 614, and shortly before the capture of the city by the Khalif Omar, a.d. 639. The story of how Omar found the site derelict is well attested; but what the base of the existing building may be, and whether it is that of Hadrian's Temple of Aelia Capitolina, can only be verified when the foundations below the floor of the existing buildings are examined. Portions of the earlier mosaic skin of the building, before the sixteenth-century ceramic skin with which Major Richmond's report deals (see Section 10), have been recently discovered in the Haram area.
69. The first Aqsa mosque was built by Omar in 14 h. (a.d. 635), and rebuilt by Abd el Malek in 72 H. (a.d. 691). This building, which is said to have been wrecked by an earthquake in 130 h. (a.d. 747-8), was restored by Al Mansur, probably in 154 h. (a.d. 771), as he is known to have visited Jerusalem in that year. A few years later it was again restored by Al Mahdi, say about 163 H. (a.d. 780).
The earliest descriptions of the Aqsa which we possess are those of Muqaddasi (a.d. 985) and Nasiri Khosrau (a.d. 1047), but the building described by them in no way corresponds with the present building, its size, the number of its doors, and the number of columns supporting the roof being much greater. From their descriptions, which are in fair agreement, and which in some respects supplement each other, it is clear that the Aqsa mosque of their day had fifteen doors in the north side and eleven in the east, and consisted internally of a forest of 280 columns arranged in twenty rows of eleven each. In this respect it must have resembled the great mosque of Cordova (eighth to tenth century) ; in fact, these two buildings are actually mentioned together for purposes of comparison by Idrisi (a.d. 1154). The central aisle was wider than the rest, and there was a big dome over the space in front of the mihrab.
The Crusaders under Godfrey de Bouillon took Jerusalem a.d. 1099, and the Haram ash Sherif was handed over to the Knights Templars. They do not appear to have made any alterations to the Dome of the Rock (which they imagined to be the Temple of the time of Christ) beyond the addition of the beautiful grille which they placed between the columns of the inner aisle ; but they must have made considerable changes in the Aqsa, which was known to them as the
68
A-
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: *;»3?e^-*vi,^^jj^ j^^ ^^
■^-^
Entrance to the Sitg el Oattanin.
No. yS.
i
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r//!-' cartouche of Sultan Suleiman tincovered in the Citadel.
No. 7p.
MUSLIM WORK. TOUCHED BV THE SOCIETY
"Palatium" or "Templum Salomonis." They used it as their residence, and added the double row of vaulted bays which extend the present building to the west along the southern wall of the Haram and formed their armoury. They are probably responsible for the greater part of the vaulted portico in front of the northern entrances to the mosque.
On Saladin's reconquest of the city in 1187 further changes were effected, and the work of the Crusaders was obliterated to a great extent, and it is to him and to the Crusaders that the mosque owes its present form, the first description which we possess after the time of Saladin— that of Mujir ad Din — agreeing substantially with the present building. Saladin is known to have restored the gold mosaics, and a fine Kufic inscription in gold mosaic on the left of the mihrab is almost certainly due to him. He also brought from Aleppo the beautiful pulpit which had been made for Nur ad Din in 564 h. (a.d. 1168) for the small mosque in the Citadel of that city, and on which is carved one of the earliest known inscriptions in Naskh, which henceforth began rapidly to replace Kufic.
70. The Stiq el Qattamn. — This bazaar, the finest in Syria, is entered by two portals, of which the eastern (see Illustration 78), leading into the Haram ash Sherif, is one of the noblest and largest monumental gateways to be seen in Syria. This great portal is provided with lateral openings giving direct access to the arcades on the west side of the Haram, which are of the same date; and above these openings is some stalactite work of great beauty, which reminds one irresistibly of Tudor vaulting a century and a half later. Across the lintel of the doorway is an inscription, according to which it was rebuilt by order of Muhammad an-Nasir, Sultan of Egypt, and son of Qalaun, and under the super- vision of the Emir Tenkiz in 737 h. (a.d. 1336). The date is somewhat defaced, but is confirmed by Mujir ad Din. The lintel is composed of three blocks with vertical joints, which causes the observer to wonder why it does not fall; but there is no doubt that the hinder portions of these blocks, although concealed, are wedge-shaped and, perhaps, joggled so as to form a flat arch ; a similar trick may be clearly seen in the Adeliya Madrasa at Damascus, where the back of the lintel is not hidden.
The booths at the west end of the bazaar have been reopened and turned into workshops, as has already been described in Section 27, but more than half still remain walled up (see Illustrations 17, 18). Let us hope they, too, will soon be opened.
69
MUSLIM WORK TOUCHED BY THE SOCIETY
A few words are now needed as to the Muslim work on the Citadel, the Roman and Crusading work having already been referred to by Pere Vincent and Pere Abel in Sections 57 and 61.
The first known instance of Mohammedan work after the time of the Crusaders is the restoration of Malik Muazzam Isa, which is recorded by an inscription at present embedded in the inner wall of the Citadel mosque. It states that a tower was restored in 610 h. (1213/4). The mosque itself is dated 710 H. (13 10), but the minaret must be much later. The inner entrance of the Citadel, with the two right-angled turns, was dated 710 H. also, but the inscription slab has long since disappeared. The outer entrance is dated 938 h. (1532) in the name of Sultan Suleiman, to whom the beautiful cartouche shown in Illustration 79 belongs. It was uncovered by the Society during the making of the garden.
K. A. C. Creswell, M.B.E., Late Inspector of Monuments, G.S., O.E.T.
70
Appendix I
CONSTITUTION OF THE PRO-JERUSALEM SOCIETY.
(Now embodied in the Charter.)
Object,
The object of the Pro-Jerusalem Society shall be the preservation and safeguarding of the amenities of the Holy City without favour or prejudice to race or creed.
Further the Society shall be empowered to hold property real or personal in Trust and to administer it, and such administration shall be in the interest of all to whom the Holy City is sacred.
As a part of this trusteeship the Society may from time to time act in an advisory capacity to any public authority whose action may affect it.
It shall be one of the objects of the Society, in view of the above, to give publicity, whether by bulletin, writings, or newspapers, to any question aifecting the public welfare of Jerusalem.
Membership.
The Pro-Jerusalem Society shall consist of a Patron, an Honorary President, a President, an Honorary Treasurer, an Honorary Secretary, and a Council whose membership shall be of such only as have special standing or qualifications.
The following shall be ex-officio members of the Council : The Military Governor of Jerusalem ; the Grand Mufti ; the Mayor of Jeru- salem; the Orthodox Patriarch; the Latin Patriarch; the Head of the Armenian Convent in Jerusalem ; the Custode di Terra Santa ; the Head of the Jewish Community.
Method of Appointment.
The appointment of members of the Council shall, in the first in- stance, be by the President. Membership to the Society shall be of all those who subscribe to its funds.
In the event of either a new Government for Palestine being created or of the departure of the President the constitution of the Society shall be modified to suit the altered circumstances and modelled on the lines of the British "National Trust for Places of Historic Interest and Natural Beauty," or any similar quasi-public body in France, Italy, or America.
71
CONSTITUTION OF THE SOCIETY
Ownership of Property.
Property, real or personal, shall be held "in Trust" with the Presi- dent of the Society.
Finance.
The Committee shall have an account with the Anglo-Egyptian Bank in Jerusalem, cheques shall be made payable to the Pro-Jerusalem Society, and payments shall be made only on the authority of the President.
Rules of Procedure.
Meetings shall be convened monthly by the Honorary Secretary, or extraordinary meetings, at the special request given to him in writing by any three members of the Council.
Five members, in addition to the President, shall form a quorum.
Notice of the meeting, with minutes of the previous meeting, shall be distributed beforehand.
First Membership. The first membership of the Council shall be as under, and the members shall serve for one year certain from the date of this constitu- tion, subject, however, to such modification as by common consent may be deemed advisable in the event of any change of Government.
Appendix II
MEMBERS OF THE PRO-JERUSALEM SOCIETY AND CONTRIBUTORS SINCE ITS INAUGURATION
1918
Messrs. Smouha & Co. Messrs. Btesh Bros. . . Morums Oriental Store Mr. Solomon Angel . . Cairo Syrian Community Mr. Denham (for Morton & Haj Yusuf Wafa Al Dajani Messrs. Marash Bros. American Colony
Co.)
£E. 585 SCO 100
19. SCO 400
10
10
H' 375
2S
72
I9I9
1920
|
MEMBERS OF THE SOCIETY |
|
|
Dr. Faris Nlmr |
£E. so |
|
Mr. Siman Sidnawy . . |
50 |
|
Jerusalem Municipality |
ISO |
|
His Eminence the Grand Mufti |
10 |
|
Anglo-Egyptian Bank |
100 |
|
Mr. F. Levaux |
5 |
|
Messrs. Buckler |
19. 200 |
|
Mr. Guini |
21 |
|
Mr. Hazan |
10 |
|
Messrs. Bentovia and Forer |
25 |
|
Miss Palmer . . . . |
100 |
|
Mr. Haim Valero |
200 |
|
Mr. Isaac Cohen |
SO |
|
Mr. Benjamin Kokia |
10 |
|
Council of Jerusalem Jews . . |
10 |
|
Imperial Ottoman Bank |
200 |
|
Credit Lyonnais Bank |
SO |
|
American Anonymous donor (per Jacob Spafford) |
9. 870 |
|
Sir Basil Zaharoff, G.C.B., G.B.E. |
48s. 62s |
|
Mr. Chs. Hamilton |
194. 250 |
|
Prof. Patrick Geddes |
3 |
|
Messrs. Blum and Levy |
25 . |
|
Anglo-Palestine Bank |
100 |
|
Banco di Roma |
ISO |
|
Capt. Hamborough (for a drinking fountain) |
9. 650 |
|
Council of Jerusalem Jews . . |
10 |
|
Council of Sephardic Jews . . |
10 |
|
Central Committee Knesseth Israel |
10 |
|
Zionist Commission . . |
250 |
|
Administration grant for Technical Education . |
200 |
|
Administration grant for Tree-planting . . |
25 |
|
Municipality of Jerusalem . . |
200 |
|
Mrs. MacQueen and Mr. Macrackan (Sub |
|
|
scription Dance) |
61. 95 |
|
Mr. Bruce |
100 |
|
Mr. Hoffstat |
25 |
|
Mr. Peterson |
25 |
|
Miss Carey Thomas |
10 |
K
73
MEMBERS OF THE SOCIETY Logan Pearsall Smith Btesh Bros. 51st Sikhs Regiment
(For Repairs to the Mosque of Omar) The Rt. Hon. Sir Herbert Samuel . . Viscount Milner M. de Picciotto Dr. Eder
H. M. Kalvaresky Prof. P. Geddes Mrs. Elizabeth McQueen Mr. John H. Finley . . Mrs. Elizabeth McQueen (for seats in the Citadel) Mr. Harris Cohen (per Sir Herbert Samuel) Anglo-American Society (for seats in the Citadel) British School of Archaeology (per Prof. Garstang) Miss Laudau (for repairs to the Citadel) . . Ronald Storrs (for repairs to the Citadel) Norman Bentwich
Administration grant for Technical Education Municipality of Jerusalem . .
„ grant for City Tree-planting Rabbi Horowitz Ronald Storrs Canon Stacey Waddy Dr. Harte Administration grant for Citadel repairs
„ „ per Antiquities Dept,
Sir Abbas Eflf. Abd-el-Baha, K.B.E Sir Alfred Mond, Bart. Mrs. Holman Hunt . . L. A. Van Vriesland . . Administration grant for 1920 D. Salameh By Special Concert . .
Miss Blandy
Anglo-Egyptian Bank
Miss Lapin
Mr. Hennay J. Paten
74
|
£E. 4. |
550 |
|
100 |
|
|
40 |
|
|
10 |
|
|
10. |
2CX3 |
|
25 |
|
|
2. |
100 |
|
25 |
|
|
3 |
|
|
15 |
|
|
4- |
840 |
|
49 |
|
|
9- |
750 |
|
15 |
|
|
30 |
|
|
10 |
|
|
20 |
|
|
5 |
|
|
300 |
|
|
200 |
|
|
250 |
|
|
5 |
|
|
20 |
|
|
S |
|
|
5 |
|
|
SO |
|
|
250 |
|
|
100 |
|
|
25 |
|
|
97- |
125 |
|
5 |
|
|
295 |
|
|
S |
|
|
296. |
Soo |
|
20 |
|
|
25 |
|
|
S |
|
|
4- |
250 |
Appendix III
LIST OF THE SOCIETY'S NEEDS
Scholarships for the Society's weaving apprentices to enable them to go to the Mehalla Kebir weaving school in Egypt for one year. For one scholarship . . . . . . . . . . £50
Seats, in Palestine marble or other good stone, for the Society's Parks and Gardens. The donor's name will be carved upon the seat. Some twenty are needed at a cost per seat of £20 to £50
Seats in wood or iron, at convenient points in the Rampart Walk or in the gardens. The donor's name will be cut or painted on the seat. Some twenty-five are wanted ; to cost from £5 to £10
Sections of the Rampart Walk to be repaired and cleaned together with the parapet adjoining. The Society provides the stone. In other words, "to repair the walls of Jerusalem." The work is apportioned in sections . . . . . .at from £10 to £100
Sections of the Fosse clearing ; calculated for each gang of women
working for a month . . . . £25
. £500
. £500 £1,000 .£1,000 . £500 ■ £500
For the establishment of the Glass Industry
For the establishment of the Carpet-weaving Industry
For the establishment of Furniture-making Workshops
For the establishment of Metal Workshops . .
For the establishment of a School of Ceramics
For the completion of the Suq el Qattanin repairs
For repairs to the Citadel, in sections on its different towers, the
Tower of David, the Hippicus, etc. In sections at from £50 to £1,000 For the starting of the Museum to house the Society's collections £500 For the Jaffa Gate improvement scheme and the removal of the
Turkish clock tower .. .. .. .. .. ..£1,000
Gifts of historical subjects (Palestine history) for the Society's
Museum. Gifts of examples of Arts and Crafts, especially examples of
Oriental weaving and embroidery for the School of Textiles. Gifts of trees for the Parks and Gardens. Gifts of flowers and seedlings for the Society's nursery. The gift of a membership stamp, to be specially designed, and sent
upon letters dispatched from Jerusalem,
75
Appendix IV
WEAVER'S APPRENTICESHIP INDENTURE
This Indenture witnesses that M is this day bound
apprentice to Shukri Batato of " the Jerusalem Looms " upon the
following terms parties to the agreement being N ,
Father or Guardian of the said Shukri Batato of "the
Jerusalem Looms " Major Tadman the Education Officer as repre- senting O.E.T.A. and the President of the Pro-Jerusalem Society.
1. M undertakes to serve the said Shukri Batato for
a period of one year to obey his order and diligently apply himself to learning the craft of weaving. He agrees to honour and obey the crafts- men with whom he shall be placed during his apprenticeship and at all times, in speech and action, to bear himself towards them with respect.
2. N the Father or Guardian of the said M
undertakes to see that his son devotes attention to his work and attends such instruction as is arranged for by the Education Officer and generally conform to the terms of this agreement, also in the event of the cancella- tion of this agreement due to the negligence or misconduct of the said
M to pay to the Pro-Jerusalem Society half of any sum that
the Society shall have disbursed for him,
3. Shukri Batato undertakes to teach the said M the
craft of weaving to arrange for him to receive at the hours agreed to with the Education Officer such teaching other than weaving as may be deter- mined, further to pay him —
For the first three months a wage of i pt. a day. second ,, „ ,, 2 pt.
|
J» |
>5 |
J> |
J> |
|
|
>J |
third |
)J |
>> |
M |
|
5J |
fourth |
»? |
J> |
>> |
5>
2J/2 pt. „
■y. 3 pt. „
this wage to be regarded as a minimum and to be increased according to
the skill and the diligence of the said A'l but in case of the
non-observance of the agreement by the said M or of his
proven incapacity the said Shukri Batato shall be free to discharge him after due notice given to the Pro-Jerusalem Society.
76
WEAVER'S INDENTURE
4. The Education Officer agrees to superintend the teaching other than weaving and to report from time to time to the Pro-Jerusalem Society.
5. The Pro-Jerusalem Society agrees to act as referee in case of any difference arising as to the above and to watch the interests of the appren- tice and of the weaving industry.
As witness to which the above parties have
set their hands this
1919.
M
N
The Education Officer.
President of the Pro- Jerusalem Society.
"The Jerusalem Looms."
Appendix V
PUBLIC NOTICE. No. 34.
No person shall demolish, erect, alter, or repair the structure of any building in the City of Jerusalem or its environs within a radius of 2,500 metres from the Damascus Gate (Bab-el-Amud) until he has ob- tained a written permit from the Military Governor.
Any person contravening the orders contained in this proclamation, or any term or terms contained in a licence issued to him under this proclamation, will be liable upon conviction to a fine not exceeding £E.20o.
R. Storrs, Colonel,
Military Governor. Jerusalem, 8th April igi8.
n
Appendix VI
ANTIQUITIES PROCLAMATION
Whereas it is convenient to make provision for the conservation of ancient monuments and for the preservation of ancient objects of virtu and relics movable and immovable (hereinafter styled "Antiqui- ties") in the Occupied Enemy Territory (South):
Now THEREFORE I, MaJOR-GeNERAL SiR ArTHUR WiGRAM MoNEY,
in exercise of the powers conferred upon me as Chief Administrator of Occupied Enemy Territory (South) by warrants dated 24th April and 29th October 191 8, under the hand of the General Officer Commanding- in-Chief the Egyptian Expeditionary Force,
HEREBY ORDER AS FOLLOWS : —
1. Throughout the Occupied Enemy Territory (South) the property in all antiquities which were the property of the Ottoman Government or which have been discovered since the Occupation or shall hereafter be discovered shall be deemed to be vested in the Occupied Enemy Territory Administration (South).
2. The term "ancient" for the purpose of this Proclamation shall be deemed to signify antecedent to the year 1600 c.e.
3. No alteration, restoration, movement, or disposal of any anti- quity or of any site of religious interest whether in public, private, or ecclesiastical custody may be made without the previous consent of the Occupied Enemy Territory Administration (South).
4. Any person who discovers an antiquity or who is aware of the discovery of an antiquity shall inform the Military Governor of the district within a period of 30 days.
5. No person who discovers an antiquity either on his own land or on the land of another may appropriate it to his own use or to the use of any public, private, or ecclesiastical body without the consent of the Occupied Enemy Territory Administration (South).
6. No person may negligently or maliciously destroy, deface, or in any way damage any ancient monument or any site which he has reason to believe to contain an antiquity or which is reputed to be of religious interest.
78
ANTIQUITIES PROCLAMATION
7. No person shall traffic or abet the traffic in antiquities except under licence issued by the Occupied Enemy Territory Administration (South).
8. Any person who knowingly disobeys any direction of this Pro- clamation shall be punishable on conviction by either a Civil or Military Court with imprisonment for a term which may extend to one year or with a fine which may extend to £E.5oo or with both. Any antiquities found with the person convicted or disposed of in contravention of the terms of this Proclamation and any property implicated may be con- fiscated.
9. Any person who reports the discovery of an antiquity over which the Administration decides to exercise its right of property shall be duly compensated, and when any such antiquity is relinquished by the Adminis- tration the Administration shall deliver the said antiquity to the person or corporation appearing to have the most proper claim thereto, together with a certificate authorizing the said antiquity to be transferred in accordance with the terms of this Proclamation.
10. The powers vested in the Administration under this Proclama- tion together with power to perform all necessary acts subsidiary thereto are hereby delegated to the Chief Administrator or such person or persons as he may appoint to act on his behalf.
11. The provisions of this Proclamation shall be substituted, so far as they apply, for the provisions of the Ottoman Law of Antiquities of loth April 1322 H. throughout the whole of the Occupied Enemy Territory (South) but all the provisions of the law shall be deemed to have been in force up to the date of this Proclamation.
(Sgd.) A. W. Money, Major-General, Chief Administrator. Headquarters,
O.E.T.A. (South) Jerusalem, i December 1918.
79
Appendix VII
ADVERTISEMENTS ORDINANCE
1. Save as hereinafter provided, no advertisement shall be exhibited upon any hoarding or similar structure, or on any wall, tree, fence, gate, or elsewhere in Palestine.
2. In a town area the Municipality with the consent of the District Governor, and elsewhere the District Governor, may authorize the erection in specified places of one or more boards or hoardings for the exhibition of notices and advertisements.
3. Any person may exhibit upon his own premises advertisements relating to the business or occupation carried on in those premises.
4. — (i) In a town area the Municipality with the consent of the District Governor, and elsewhere the District Governor, may make by- laws under this Ordinance {a) for levying a charge upon the exhibition of notices and advertisements exhibited in accordance with Section 2 of this Ordinance ; {b) for regulating the size and form of notices and adver- tisements exhibited in accordance with Section 2 or Section 3 of this Ordinance. (2) Such by-laws shall be submitted for the consent of the High Commissioner, and shall not be valid without his consent.
5. Nothing in this Ordinance shall apply to notices or advertise- ments exhibited by any Department of the Government of Palestine, or by any Military or Naval or Air Force Authority, or by any Judicial Authority, or by any Local Authority.
6. Any person committing a contravention of the provisions of this Ordinance or of any by-laws issued thereunder by a Alunicipality or District Governor shall be liable to the penalties prescribed by the 3rd Addendum of Art. 99 of the Ottoman Penal Code, and further to a continuing penalty of £E.i for every day during which the offence is continued after his conviction.
If any person after conviction fails to remove any structure erected or any advertisement exhibited in contravention of this Ordinance, the Police shall be entitled to remove it at his expense. The Court may award an amount not exceeding one-half of the fine imposed to any person giving information which leads to a conviction.
7. This law shall come into force on the ist day of November 1920.
(Sgd.) Herbert Samuel, High Commissioner for Palestine. Government House, Jerusalem. 20-7-20.
80
INDEX
PAGE
PAGE
|
Ab (month of) |
44 |
Ashkenazim |
54 |
|
AbdelMalek |
67,68 |
'Attarin (Suq el), ///. 13-16 . |
■ 6,63,64,65 |
|
Abel (Pere) |
S3, 66, 70 |
Avenues |
24 |
|
Absalom (Tomb of) |
53,54 |
||
|
Abu Liya Wakf, ///. lo |
4, 5, 58 |
||
|
Adeliya Madrasa |
.. 69 |
||
|
Adiabene (Helen of) . . |
50,51 |
B |
|
|
Advertisement (regulation of) |
37,80 |
||
|
Aelia Capitolina |
56, 57, 68 |
Bachourah |
.. 64 |
|
Air Force (Royal) |
13,80 |
Baldwin IV |
.. 62 |
|
Aleppo . . |
.. 69 |
Bangles |
33 |
|
Allenby (Lord) |
V, 21,57 |
Bar-Kokeba |
. .. 56 |
|
Almond . . |
21 |
Batato (Shukri) |
. .. 76 |
|
Amaury I |
.. 62 |
Bath of the Patriarch . . |
IS, 16, 17 |
|
American Colony |
13,46 |
Baths. See Hammam. |
|
|
„ Red Cross |
.. 30 |
Batrak (Hammam el) . . |
15, 16, 17 |
|
Amud (Bab el). See Damascus Gate. |
Bazaars . . . . 61, |
63, 64, 65, 69 |
|
|
Anglo-Egyptian Bank |
•• 72 |
Beads |
33 |
|
Anne (St.) |
61, 64, 6s |
Ben Sirach. See Sirach. |
|
|
Antiquities . .v, |
16, 18, 78 |
Beni Hezir |
•• 54 |
|
„ (Department of) . . |
18 |
Bentwich (Mrs. Norman) |
4 |
|
Apprentices, ///. 62, 63 |
35, 36, 76 |
Bethlehem, ///. 42 |
62 |
|
Aqsa Mosque, ///. 39 . . . . 9 |
20, 22, 68 |
Bezaleel |
■• 33 |
|
Arab Conquest |
.. 56 |
Bezetha |
20 |
|
Arcades, ///. j8, 55 . . 7, |
17, 58, 69 |
Birket Israel |
20 |
|
Archaeology 14, 15, 16, 18, 37, |
56, 57, 58 |
„ Sitt Miriam |
20 |
|
61, 64 |
„ Hammam el Batrak . |
. .. 63 |
|
|
Arcosolia |
50,55 |
Bliss (Dr. F. J.) |
IS, 59, 60 |
|
Armenian Convent |
20, 22 |
Blizzard of 1920 . . 6, |
16, 22, 28, 45 |
|
Armenians Ij 20, 22, 30, |
31, 62, 71 |
Booths |
7 |
|
Asali(Eff.) |
5 |
British occupation |
.. I, 10 |
|
Ascalon . . |
61 |
„ administration 26, |
31,32,35,42 |
|
Ascension (Chapel of the) |
55 |
Burial-places |
23 |
|
Ashbee, C. R., ///. /, 10, 25 |
Burnet (Sir John) |
21 |
|
|
vi, 3, 5, 7. 25, 42, |
46, 58, 59 |
Butchers |
. .. 63 |
81
INDEX
y^ PAGE
Cafes 17
Candle-makers . . . . . . ■ • 65
Captivity (the) S3
Carcasonne . . . . • ■ 21
Carpenter's work, ///. 6j 34
Cedron. See Kedron.
Cement . . . . . . . . . . 9
Cemeteries . . 24
Ceramics (School of) . . . . . . 75
Chamber of Commerce (Jerusalem) . . 37
Charter of the Pro-Jerusalem Society vi, vii
Chateaubriand . . . . . . SO, 54
Chester . .
Chief Administrator
Chosroes II
Christian Street
Chronicles (Book of)
Church Fathers
Churches
Citadel, ///. 2, j, 67, 68
21
V, IS, 79
68
IS, 17,63
54 44 20 I, 2, 21, 39, 41,
57, 61, 63, 69, 70, 7S „ Gardens, ///. i (Frontispiece),
28,29,30,31 19,21,22,41
City Council 38
„ Survey 41
See also Town Plan. Civic Advisor vi, 6, 14, 37, 4s, 48, S2,
54, 59 ,, Regulations 37
Civil government . . . . v, 16
Clermont-Ganneau . . 53, 64
Clock tower (Turkish), ///. 40, 44 62
Commander-in-Chief . . vi
Conduits . . . . . . 60
Constantini (Abraham el) . . . . 45
Constantinople . . , . . . 32
Constitution of tlu-. Pro-Jerusalem Society 71
Cook-shops 64, 65
68 6S 37
Cordova
Cordwainers
Corrugated iron
Cotton Market. See Qattaniii.
Council of the Pro-Jerusalem Society
^ . , 'fv, 14, 16, 37, 38, 65
Creche . . . . _ ^n
82
PAGE
Creswell (K. A. C) . .
Crusades
Custode di Terra Santa
Cypress . .
D
Dabbaghin (Haret ed-) Dabbet er Rische Park Damascus
Damascus Gate, ///. 7. . 2, 4, 20, Daniel, Abbot . . Daoud Prince de Kerak David Street IS, 20,
„ (Tower of), Frontispiece
44, 45, ,, (Tomb of) David's Gate . . Derbas (Sheikh) Dickie (A. C.) . . Djamia Mawlana Dome of the Rock i. 8, 9,
Dome Construction, ///. 64 Drapers . . Dung Dyeing . .
E
Earthquake
East London Apprenticeship Fund
Ecclesiasticus . .
Education . . . . vii, 3s, 36.
Effendism
Efftikhar Ed-Dauleh . .
El'azar
Encroachments, ///. 34, 36, 37
Estranghelo
Etienne (Ecole biblique de Saint-)
Ettinger, Dr. . .
Eucalyptus
Eudocia (Empress)
Excavation
Exodus . .
8, 30, 70
61, 68, 70
71
21
.. 64
24, 46, 47 32,69
SO, 63, 77 62 61
26, 28, 29
61, 62, 7S
45
4, 22, 63
61
IS, 59, 60 6i
20,31,32, 41, 57,67
64,65
4,38
7
68 35 49 41, 76
34 61
53 3
50 59,66
24 21 60, 64 i6 43
INDEX
Ficus indica Fig
Finance . . Florence (Pilgrim of) Flour-mill, ///. 57 Fosse, ///. /, 5, 27, 31, Fountains Furniture-making Furriers . .
40,41
PAGE
38
21
41,72
49 30 21, 75 27 75 65
G
Galleries (Art) . . . . . . . . vii
Gardens, ///. / (Frontispiece), 28-31, 37
vii, I, 2, 17, 19, 24, 29, 35, 41, 48, 70, 7S Garnier de Gray . . . . . . 62
Gates, ///. 7, 8, 27, 40-45 2, 3, 4, 20, 22, 23, 43. SO, S7> 58, 61, 62, 63, 64 Geddes (Prof. Patrick), ///. 22
12, 13, 19, 23 German Architects
„ Mapping Gethsemane Ghetto . . Girl Guides Glacis
Glass-work, ///. 5p, 60, 61 Godfrey de Bouillon Goldsmiths Goleil Governor of Jerusalem
12, 29 13
52, 55 •■ 4,5 .. 40
2
7, 30, 32, 75 19,68 .. 65 SO V, vi, vii, 2, 4, 10,
14, 31, 35, 36,41,42,71, 77 Governorate . . 18, 38
Graeco-Roman remains, ///. 70
5, 15, 24,44, 56, 57, 58, 68,70 Grand Mufti of Jerusalem . . 9, 18, 36, 71 Guard-houses . . . . . . . . 2, 3
Guild of Handicraft . . 35
Guini . . . . . . . . . . 6, 12
H
Hadrian Haggai
56,68 • 55
Hairdressers Hamberg (Victor) Hammam el Batrak Hammam-es-Shaffei Hammam, Hammamat Haram . . Harari (R. A.) Harkavy (V. A.) Hasmoneans (The) Hebron, ///. 59, 60, 61 Helena (Empress) Herodian work, ///. 70
7,31
IS,
PAGE
65
12
17,63
7
7, 15, 17,63
57, 63, 68, 69
41 45
51
32, 33
64
43,45, 51, 52, 56, 57, 58, 61 • 4, 20, 24, 35 • 44
Herod's Gate . . „ Palace . . Hezekiah (Pool of) . . . . . . 20
High Commissioner . . . . vi, 80
Hippicus Tower, ///. / {Frontispiece) 23, 75 Historic monuments (Register of) . . 18 Holy City v, vi, vii, 4, 10, 12, 16, 18,
19, 26, 38, 41,42, 45, 59, 61, 71
Holy Sepulchre (Church of)
Honiah . .
Hospitals
Hospitallers
Huldah the prophetess
20, 61, 63, 64, 65, 66
54 22
26,66 ■• 55
I
Idrisi . . . . 68
Indentures of apprenticeship, ///. 63 35, 76 Industries (new) . . . . 30, 33
Isaac . . . . • ■ 67
Isaiah 52
Islam 9, 33
Jackaranda . , . . 21
Jaffa Gate, ///. 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45
4, IS, 20, 21, 23, 57,62,63,75 Jaffa Road 24, 27
83
INDEX
James (St.) Jedid (Bab el) . . Jehoshaphat Jehouda ha-hassid Jemal Pasha Jerome (St.) Jerusalem
„ looms
(New) Jewellers Jewry . .
Jews .. 13,22.
John (St.) Josephus Judah (Kings of) Judith (the Abbess)
40,43
PAGE
S3, 61 20 SI, 53, 54, 66
54 .. I, 12
44
II. 19,21,35
30
8, II, 23, 26
.. 63
13
44, 49, 54, 71
29, 66
44,45 .. so .. 64
K
Kaiser Wilhelm II
" Kaiser's Breach," ///. 40
Kalba Shaboua (grotto of)
Kalonymos
Karaites
Katanin. See Qattanln.
Kaza of Jerusalem
Kedron . .
Kerak
Khalifs
Khalil (Bab el)
Khan ez Zeit
Khanqah Salahiyeh
Khans
Kings, Tombs of the. See Tombs.
Kitchens
Knights Hospitallers . .
Knights Templars
Kobour el Koudat
Kobour el Molouk
Kochim . .
Kokhim . .
Koran
Kotel ha-Ma'arabi
84
29,
• 23
• SI 54 51
16 52 61
32 20
• 6s
• 63 61,65
64,65
26
. 68
• SI
• 50
• SO
• SS 33
• 43
Kubbet es Sakhrah. Kutahia
PACE
See Dome of the Rock. 32
|
Labour difficulties |
19 |
|
„ (methods of) . . |
22 |
|
„ (bureau) |
.. 40 |
|
Lag-Ba'omer |
• 49 |
|
Latin Kingdom |
.. s6 |
|
Latrines |
17, 21 |
|
Lazare (St.) |
62 |
|
Leprosy |
62 |
|
Libraries |
vii |
|
London . . |
10 |
|
Looms, ///. 62, 63 |
30, 7(> |
|
Louvre (Musee du) |
SO |
|
Luncz (A. M.) |
SI |
M
McLean, ///. 27 12,23
Macrae (Lady Margaret) . . 24
Mahanna Yudah Market . . 26, 27
Mahdl (Al) 68
Malachi . . . . . . . . 55
Malcuisinat . . . . 65
Malek-en-Naser . . 61
Malik Muazzam Isa . . . . 70
Mamoun (El) 67
Mansur (Al) 68
Markets, ///. 43 15, 22, 26, 27, 28, 29, 37, 65 Masonry, ///. 69,70 .. .. 45, 58, 59
Mathieson (T. B.) 21
Mauristan, ///. 55 . . . . 26, 33, 65 Mayor of Jerusalem . . 18, 71
Mecca . . 9
Mehalla Kebir 75
Melissende (Queen) . . 62, 64
Metalwork 33
Military Administration . . . . 18 Mimosa . . . . 21
Minarets, Frontispiece . . 21, 46
Mishna (The) 44
INDEX
|
Moghrebins (porte des) |
43,6s |
|
|
Mohammed |
• 9.67 |
|
|
Monebozes |
SI |
|
|
Money (Sir A. W.) |
79 |
|
|
Money-changers |
64,65 |
|
|
Montagu (Samuel) |
35 |
|
|
" Monuments historiques " i8 |
37, |
41,42 |
|
Morris (William) |
vi |
|
|
Mosaic . . |
9 |
|
|
Mosques, Frontispiece, III. 3Q |
9, |
10, 20, |
|
22,61 |
68 |
69,70 |
|
Mufti (Dar el) |
49 |
|
|
Muhammad an-Nasir, ///. 57 . . |
■ 69 |
|
|
Mujir ad Din |
64,69 |
|
|
Municipality of Jerusalem 16, |
18, |
26, 37, |
|
38 |
40,80 |
|
|
Muqaddasi |
68 |
|
|
Museums |
vii |
41,75 |
N
|
Nasir (Muhammad an-), |
///. |
S7 ..69 |
|
Nasiri Khosrau |
. . 68 |
|
|
Naskh |
• . ■.• ^ |
|
|
National Trust for places oi |
Historic |
|
|
Interest |
71 |
|
|
Nebi Da-ud (Bab en) |
• • 20, 45, 58 |
|
|
„ (Waly) |
61 |
|
|
Nebi Samuel |
46, SI |
|
|
New Gate |
20 |
|
|
Nur ad Din |
. . 69 |
|
|
Nuremberg |
21 |
|
O.E.T.A. |
70, 76, 78, 79 |
|
Ohanessian (David) |
8,32 |
|
Olive |
21, 48 |
|
Olives (Mount of) |
• 52, 54, 55 |
|
Omar (Khalif) . . |
68 |
|
Orphanage |
33 |
|
Ottoman Penal Code . |
80 |
Palatium
Palestine
Palestine Exploration Fund
Palestine Survey
Park system of Jerusalem
PAGE . .. 69
34. 71, 80
59
. . 8, 28
vii, 2, 15, 19,
21, 22, 24,41, 46, 48, 75
15,63 21
51
63, 6s
. .. 64
•• 53
•• 44
19, 24, 30, 35
5,41,58
. . 4, 80
20
20, 63
24,25
32
39
V, 15, 78
Patriarch (Bath of)
Pepper-tree
Pereira . .
Perfumers
Persian Conquest
Pharisees
Phazael (Tower of)
Plantations
Playgrounds, ///. 10 . .
Police
Pool of Hezekiah
Pools
Post Office Square, ///. 47, 48
Potters, ///. 5<y
Prison Labour, ///. 68 . .
Proclamations . .
Pro-Jerusalem Society v, vi, vii, i, 2, 5, 6, 14, 16, 18, 21, 30, 31, 32, 35, 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, 56, 57, 59, 61, 63, 67, 70, 71, 72, 76
Prophet (the) 9
Prophets (the) 55
Public Health (Department of) vii, 26, 37
Public Notices v, 14, 77
Qalaah. See Citadel;
Qalaun . . 69
Qattanin (Suq el), ///. 12, 18, 56, 57, 78
I, 6, 7, 8, 30, 33, 35, 36,
41,69,75
Quarries . . ■ • 22
R
R.A.F. See Air Force. Rabbi Obadia de Bartanora Rahbeh (Bab er-) Ramparts
S3 64
22, 58, 61
85
INDEX
PAGE
Rampart Walk, Frontispiece, III. 52, 33, 34,
35, 36, 37, 3S, 39 I. 2, 3, i9, 20, 21, 23,39,41,42,58 Rashidia School 24, 35
Raymond of Toulouse . . 61
Red Cross (American) . . . . 30
Refugees . . . . 39
Registration of monuments . . 41
{See also " Monuments historiques ")
Relief labour, ///. 6y Rephaim
Richmond (Ernest) Robinson's Arch
"Palestine" Rock. See Dome of the
,, Tombs . . Roman staircase
,, roads . .
,, camp Russian Church
39
52
6,8, 10,31, 57, 68
43 . . 50
24, 46, 47
■• 15,59,60
.. 16
. . 58
•• 55
Sadda (Queen) . . St. Stephen's Gate, 111.8 „ Street . .
Saladin . .
Salt (Es)
Samuel (Sir Herbert) . .
Sanhedrin (Great)
Sanitation . . . . . . 37,
Saulcy (M. de)
Scandal (Mount of)
Seats
Sebekh . .
Sephardim
Sepulchre (St.). See Holy Sepulchre
Shabouoth (fete de)
Shimeon
Shops
Sibil
Sidonia (Queen)
Siloam .. 15,43.52,53.54.
Silsileh (Bab es-)
86
50.51 4.66
65
65,69
I
vi, 80
51
46,57
49,50
52,54
25
24
54
45
54
17, 29
27
50,51 59,60 61,65
Simon the Just
Sion Gate. See Zion.
Sirach (Jesus son of)
Slaughterhouse
Slousch (Dr. Nahum)
Social work
Sorbonne
Spanish Jews
Spinning
Stairways
Stonework
Storrs (Ronald)
Subscribers to Pro-Jerusalem
Suleiman the Magnificent, ///. 3S, 79
Sumac
Suq el Qattanin. See Qattanln. „ 'Attarin. See 'Attarin. ,, Lehan . . . . 29
,, Lahhamin . . . . . . 63
„ Khawajat 63
Suqs, ///. 56, 37, 78 I, 6, 7, 8, 15, 16, 29, 30, 33, 35, 36, 41, 63, 64, 65, 66, 69, 75
Swaythling (Lord) . . . . 35, 36
Syria . . . . . . 62, 69
Syrian Orphanage . . . . 33
PAGE
45,49, 51
.. 49
.. 6s
■■ 55 39,40
•• 55 22
■ ■ 7, 30
IS, 21,59,60
IS V, vii, 10, 38, 41, 77 72 70 21
Table-service Tadman (Major) Tailors . . Talmud . . Talmud Thorah Technical Education
35,
33 76
65
44,49
5
36,41
66,68
Temple (Abbey or Church of the)
Temple and Temple area 22, 43, 44, 52,
53, 56, 57, 58, 68, 69
Tenkiz (Emir) . . . . . . 69
Terraces
Textiles (School of) Thomas (St.) Tiles,Tilework . . Tillage . .
. . 2, 21
75 .. 62
9, 30, 37 24
INDEX
Tishre
Titus, ///. 21
Tombs, ///. 25, 7/ 23, 24,
Tower (Village of)
Town Plan, ///. 2/, 22, 25 1 1
Transport
Trees . . . . 19
Trumpet-tree
Tudela (Benjamin of) . .
Turkish administration i
22, 23> 30. TyropsEum
PAGE
49 19, 56
45, 46, 47, 49,
SI, 52, 54, 55
55
13, 14,41, 52
.. 19
21, 24, 30, 35
21
44, 45 , 2, 13, 16, 19,
39, 44, 55, 56 • 20, 43, 59
u
Uzziah (King) . . . . . . . . 53
Valero (Haim) . . . . . . 26, 27
Vaults, Vaulting, ///. J2, /j, 14, /j, 16, 18
6,7 Vegetable market . . . . 28, 29
Vincent (Pere), ///. 73
5, 6, IS, 47, 48, 53, 59, 70 Virgin (Tomb of the) . . . . 61
" Viri Galilei " 52
W PAGE
Wady Joz, ///. 73 .. .. 46, 47
„ (Quartier d'el) 66
Wailing Wall, ///. 6q, 70 . . 43, 44
Wakf(Ouaqf) .. 4,5,8,31,32,58,63
Walls of Jerusalem, ///. ^5, 6g, 70 42, 43, 60
Walys Water (laying on of) Weaving, ///. 6a Whiting (John) Wilson's Arch . . Window, ///. II.
Yaqoubiyeh (el)
Yehoudah
Yellin (David)
Yo'azar . .
Yohanan
Yoma
Yudah. See Mahanna.
Zechariah Zion
„ Gate
„St. .. ..
Zionist Commission
„ University Zones and Zoning
61
19, 57, 60, 62
31, 35, 36, 41, 75 41
■ • 43
61
54 24
54 54 49
49, 53, 54
• 1,45 4, 20, 63
66
• 4, '9
13 13
87
6
JERUSALEM
1920— 1922
All Rights Reserved
Masom at u-ork on the Kast Tou-er oj the Citadel.
No. 22.
JERUSALEM
1920— 1922
Being the Records of the Pro-Jerusalem
Council during the First Two Years of
the Civil Administration
EDITED FOR THE COUNCIL OF THE PRO-JERUSALEM SOCIETY BY C. R. ASHBEE, M.A.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS SOMETIME CIVIC ADVISER TO THE CITY OF JERUSALEM
WITH A PREFACE BY SIR RONALD STORRS
GOVERNOR OF JERUSALEM PRESIDENT OF THE PRO-JERUSALEM SOCIETY
LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W.
Published for
THE COUNCIL OF THE PRO-JERUSALEM SOCIETY
1924
Printed in Great Britain by HazM, IValson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury.
PREFACE
ALTHOUGH the Second Volume of the Records of the Pro- Jerusalem Society does not strictly include more than the years 1920-22, 1 propose in this Preface to offer for the informa- tion of members and of the public a very brief review of its activities up to the date of writing.
As stated in the Preface to the First Volume, " there were, and always will remain, many aspects of civic life, more especially in this unique city, in which no Military Administration, no Civil Govern- ment even, could, without thwarting civic and individual effort, occupy itself, however sympathetically inclined."
" The objects of the Society, as defined in the Charter, are the preservation and advancement of the interests of Jerusalem, its district and inhabitants, more especially :
" I. The protection of and the addition to the amenities of Jerusalem and its District.
" 2. The provision and maintenance of parks, gardens, and open spaces in Jerusalem and its District.
" 3. The establishment in the District of Jerusalem of Museums, Libraries, Art Galleries, Exhibitions, Musical and Dramatic Centres, or other institutions of a similar nature for the benefit of the public.
'* 4. The protection and preservation, with the consent of the Government, of the Antiquities in the District of Jerusalem.
" 5. The encouragement in the District of Jerusalem of arts, handicrafts, and industries in consonance with the general objects of the Society.
" 6. The administration of any immovable property in the District of Jerusalem which is acquired by the Society or entrusted to it by any person or corporation with a view to securing the improvement of the property and the welfare of its tenants or occupants.
" 7. To co-operate with the Departments of Education, Agricul- ture, Public Health, Public Works, so far as may be in harmony with the general objects of the Society."
V
PREFACE
It being clearly impossible for a Governor, military or civil, to superintend, still less to carry out in detail the execution of this highly technical programme, I requested Mr, C. R. Ashbee, then in Cairo, to visit Jerusalem and to report upon its possibilities in this respect. After perusal of his interesting and highly suggestive report, I offered to him, and he accepted, the post of Civic Adviser, which included that of Secretary to the Society. Mr. Ashbee began work at once, and for nearly four years rendered loyal and excellent service to Pro- Jerusalem. The weaving and tile-making industries were established, and the Rampart Walk round the walls was cleared and restored.
Mr. Ashbee retired in 1922, and was succeeded by Mr. A. C. Holliday, the present Civic Adviser. Since that date several works and projects of works have to be reported. Special efforts have been made to improve the condition of the Citadel. Many minor repairs have been executed on the crenellated and parapet walls, and repairs to the South Tower are actually in progress. Designs have been prepared for a stone bridge at the entrance of the Citadel. The Turkish barrack buildings within the courtyard are in process of removal, and over 6,000 cubic metres of buildings and stone have already been dug up and carted away.
The clock tower erected by the loyal burgesses of Jerusalem, in a style